freemansteve

Not many Citigo posts, especially since the barely-usable redesign.... The VW Up! owners forum is massively bigger and better, and welcomes Citigo & Mii owners... Just sayin', before I abandon visiting here....

I posted a lot on here as a Citigo owner. I helped a few and annoyed many. I'm giving up with it, as the latest changes make navigation a pain. See you Citigo owners on the MUCH bigger and better VW Up Owners site (your Citigo is an Up!) : So long, and thanks for all the fish....

They are twin headlamps (not available on other models, like Up!) and are normal H7 bulbs, i.e. rather like the twin-filament H4's, but with single filaments and only 2 connectors instead of three.

So sorry to hear about your situation..... AFAIK, early Up/Citigos were fitted with a 180mm clutch that was problematic - some cars repaired under dealer warranty were then fitted with the Polo clutch (200mm). I believe, but cannot confirm, that later cars (post facelift?) got the Polo clutch as OEM fit. Given that there were Polos with the same MPI engine (and a bit more weight, hence clutch wear), I'm pretty sure there is a better 200mm clutch that is right for your car - if you go with part numbers and VINs, you may well end up buying the poor 180mm clutch. If I were you, I'd repost on the Up! Owners Forum for advice - this site (Briskoda), as far as Citigos are concerned is tiny in comparison and has far less technical knowledge - it's fine for all other Skodas, but the Citigo is really an Up! with just a few cosmetics changes....

Common problem - not all lambda sensors claiming to be compatible actually are, and it's often the heating circuit calibration; this is one thing that may be worth buying from a VW dealership garage, unless you are very sure that it's known to be identical. Many garages have not learned this yet and just buy from a favoured parts supplier, usually based on price....

There is a clutch switch on the pedal assembly. This tells the ECU if you are pressing the clutch, and as said, this may be faulty. Hard to get to, but easy to test and cheap to fix, if that is the problem, but I'm not certain that is, as there may be other faults stemming from the clutch switch being stuck on as if the clutch was pressed.... Many many manual cars do not require you to press the clutch to start, but it is a common feature on VAG cars. Citigos have no message about clutch pedals on the instrument cluster, at least none of the models I have driven - it's best for non-Citigo owners to not spread disinformation that may confuse people!

https://vwupparts.com/

Take a look on the Up! owners club/forum, and post the question there - lots of people on there change their radios. Maybe your BCM cannot support the newer radio; I don't know.

Expected behaviour. The radio needs to be coded into the ECU. There is a canBus exchange to verify the radio is correctly registered. You'll need a specialist or a VW garage, as it requires the right software to be able to achieve this.

make sure any new sensor is the correct VAG-supplied part - there are a lot claiming to be compatible but which are not. This comes up regularly on the Up! forum. appearing to be running too lean (which will cause the system to up the fuelling supply) might be a real fault - an air leak, an injector clogging up, and other things could cause this.

Normally you do get a sound and a warning light - maybe the error is historic, and the TPMS was reset, but the trace remains in the ECU. The error could also be the ABS wheel speed sensor playing up - it may be flaky, or had a bad connection now sorted, or it can be the reluctor ring getting a bit clogged.

If it does not turn with the key, it's either seized or broken. Try the spare key, in case your main key is worn. If seized, lots of penetrating oil may help (silicone is too thick to get into tight spaces), but if broken, it will be hard to disassemble and attempt repair, I think.

Sounds like a sensor or the wiring to it....

If the lock on your current fuel cap is not working, why would you put that mechanism into a new cap?

Try posting on the VW Up! forum - loads of Citigo owners there, and at least one moderator who works in a VW parts centre....

It's a weak point on Up!s/Citigos etc....

Possibly, but you'd need to know where to link it to, and you'd need to know that your BCM version supported this... It can probably all be found out, but the Up! forum is way better on technical details....

It's probably a cost-saving thing all round (trap sensors, one-touch, wiring). While running a wire from a new switch on the driver's side may work, I'd doubt it - I think the windows are controlled via signalling to the BCM.

I don't think any Up/Citigo/Mii had one-touch window capability. Unless someone has fitted the L+R switch panel to the driver's side on a 2013, and can confirm, it's possible that the wiring may not exist to the door handle... IIWM, I'd pop the existing switch out and look at the connectors and wiring, especially before spending money....

Early models are known to have poor bulkhead sealing - check on the Up! owners forum....

Pre-facelift models were fitted with a different gearbox revision in which the input shaft rattles when not under load. There is no issue about longevity, AFAIK. Some early models were fitted with smaller clutches, slightly more prone to failure, possibly changed to larger Polo clutches, IIRC. You'd need to record the sound for anyone to identify what is a clutch problem and what is a gearbox noise. FWIW, I have a 2019 MPI and the clutch and gearbox are very good - no rattles at idle, very slick and positive gear-change, but you can provoke a short and slight 'clack' on low-gear/low-speed changes, depending on your footwork timing, and it's not a fault, just a budget car!

That's good MPG for an MPi Up! versions with turbos are a lot more efficient, and can get much better mileages. Really, unless the MPG is miles out (no pun intended), comparisons with other users are entirely pointless. I do a lot of regular short trips (and occasional long ones) and despite a warm-ish climate here, I get 44-45 on the short trips. I am extremely gentle, but all my trips involve very steep hills, passing places etc, 20mph zones, and I rarely get beyond 3rd gear. So, this MPG is fantastic mpg for my situation - I have driven hundreds of cars, diesel and petrol, so I'm not talking out of inexperience. On the other hand, I can easily get 60mpg on a long gentle run. Mine is a 75ps, and sometimes I redline it - you have to with such a weedy engine when getting past tractors etc.... The 60ps have almost identical mpg, for entirely obvious reasons, if you know the differences.

"It does have HDMI".... I was asking if anyone knew what the camera has - the bit Skoda put in the tailgate - not the Sony. Connectors can be adapted, it's the signals they carry that are the key thing, although composite video is usually just 2 wires in a co-ax. Call me negative-vibes-man, but really, what percentage of the value of a 10-year old car is a new stereo system? Plus the hassle. I'm sure it can be made to work, but if it were me, I'd keep my car as stock as possible for the re-sale, and save money on a stereo towards my next car. The speakers are terrible anyway! Or I'd use my phone with a 255G SD card full of music, and/or a nice SatNav.

It's hard to know unless someone has fitted this Sony before. Probably OK - but check if the existing camera has HDMI output (unlikely) or if the Sony can also also accept composite video over co-ax (probably what a Citigo uses). Might be worth pulling the existing radio and checking what inputs it's using. You'll need a trigger to tell the Sony to switch to rear camera when when selecting reverse, but they probably though of that. Wiring loom adapter may be needed, as I'm sure you know. Maybe even some changes to the ECU for the CAN-based data display... You may avoid a headache by talking to a local professional car stereo service!

Point is, it's just the mirror glass that's heated. If you had working heating mirrors before, the wiring for them will exist, at least to the door, but you may need to use the original wiring tail from the old mirror assembly to hook it up, if the new mirror does not include a means to connect. Frankly, take the car back to the body shop, and point out they only did half a job.... If they cause problems, post the company name, so others can avoid them!