Jeggo

would like to mention that adding an Anti Roll Bar will cost you in ground clearance because they do droop considerably

20mm spacers all round. Front is for fitment as the tyre hits the coilover and rear is for aesthetics. tbh mate you probably wont notice the wheel spacers on there own making a difference. the real difference in driving comes from the coilovers, ARB, wider/better tyres. when i added 20mm to the back i had been driving it without spacers for a long time and adding them didnt really make a difference to handling 2425 by Joe Jeggo, on Flickr

Yeah its missing a bolt

I thought it was just something worth mentioning. I have no idea what state the OP's car is in. Ive put my two cents in because when i bought my car this hose was disintegrated causing it to hold revs like the video. Its probably not the OP's problem but everything is worth a mention

haha no worries! i do have a spare centre console but unfortunately its the style without cup holders :(

Would you not call this a vacuum pipe on the left side? Heres a video of it holding revs when this magical rubber hose is disconnected.

if you cant find a centre console you can screw a bicycle bottle cage holder into something and use that! get a metal one so you can bend it to fit various size bottles in!

You can have your throttle hold revs if your vacuum pipe is broken or fallen off. its a little rubber hose on the left side of the engine if its a 1.3

Please read. BALL JOINT JOINT EXTENDERS ARE DANGEROUS. If you're currently running them please stop with immediate affect. Been running them for 4 months and they've been fine but one snapped on me the other night. The car was completely uncontrollable and un moveable. Luckily it happened at 20 mph but would have been very dangerous on the motorway. The driveshaft fell out as well. So that left me in the middle of the road at 4:00am with an un moveable car. Luckily enough I carry a lot of tools with me and a random friend happened to walk past at that time of the morning and gave me his trolley jack. I was able to put the original ball joint back in the hole and drive it home. I've seen people weld them to the knuckle, I now see why. Most of you probably don't know what they are and will probably never run them but I wouldn't want someone fitting them based on my recommendation and crashing and dying. Stay safe.

@nu99et18 did your l200 arb make a good difference? Also, what year L200 did it come from?

So after a little bit of driving i can say that the steering feels a bit quicker than before and its softer over bumps. Whole car handles pretty well, just needs more power now!

@KenONeill it's alright mate, pointing things out like this is a good thing as other people will see that the bolts they supply are pointless

Yeah I didn't make myself clear. The first pic shows their bottom bolt they supply and the top one is standard felicia bolt. It was just to show what they included with the kit. This is how I actually bolted it up I want to get some new bolts anyway as the only m10 bolts I had were fully threaded and it will be good to have shouldered bolts

Yes it does sit low but suprisingly doesn't catch that often but you have to be on the look out for pot holes and speed bumps and avoid them if you can!

Yes I got my stuff from the same company and its all fitted into my car now. the bolts they supply are pretty silly. they dont even poke out the end by the nyloc! ive used some other bolts for the time being but will be getting some proper shouldered ones soon. (bottom one is the one they supply, top was the old bolt. i fitted washers after the picture was taken) I see you got your hub machined properly, smart man! i thought it would cheaper to drill it out myself but mate that material is hard! The cost of the drill bits would of been the cost to get it done properly and it took hours and hours too! Live and learn i guess. So for people that want to know, the kit cost £120 posted and was intended for the VW golf MK2 with 17mm balljoints from Only Charged Dubs. Requires drilling out the hole where the track rod end goes to 17mm to fit the new insert. The hole already there goes to 12.5 on its smallest end and is very hard and took a long time to drill out with 13, 14, 16 and 17mm bits with cutting oil and i also think i busted my drill. Get it drilled out properly i urge you. Save the hassle. The insert is like 17.15mm wide so you can heat up the hole and smash the insert in to be a tight fit (use a bit of wood to bash on the insert so you dont damage it) (NOTE the insert goes the other way round to what i have pictured. I also fitted a large washer under the nut as the nut mainly sits on the insert whereas it needs to sit on the hub material) As for the ball joint extender it involves splitting the lower ball joint and fitting the extender on top. Should be straight foward but the extender does not come up high enough so the bolt wont pass through. I removed the caliper and carrier and used a flap disc on a grinder to trim the material down so the extender goes up higher. Once it was up enough, the bolt needed some encouragement from a hammer but it did go through. You'll have to get your tracking done once you are finished but you can do it okay with axle stands and string or other methods. There are guides on how to do this. So the angles are much better now as you can see and the suspension is definitely a lot less "crashy" over bumpers and speed bumps, was very bumpy and rough before. So far i havent actually noticed too much difference on cornering but the weather has not been dry so haven't had a chance to drive it properly yet. NOTE this is only necessary on very low cars as the angles of wishbone/track rod will not be severe enough say on 35mm drop. My tyres tuck under the arches front and back and the angles look nearly dead straight so use that as reference. Before After Notice the anti roll bar angle which sits better in the link. Before Before After Before After