smecs

hello guys and thank you lot for interest in my problem. I will make a record tomorrow and post it here. The car has a stage 1 from 30k km and now having 207k km

Thank you for your answer and time. Yes, I ack the technique on YT and saw the diff from upshift and downshift. In case of a worn synchro, could it lead to a fail of the whole gearbox if no service ?

Yes, also clashing sound when changing gear. Tried the double declutch method and the sound dissapeared when changing the gear from 2 to 3. What could be the cause?

If I let the rev to drop near the idle rev while I'm with the gear lever in neutral ( for manual gearbox) and then I change the gear, no siren or very little in sound. Can't tell why this happens only from 2nd gear to 3rd gear..

So the siren appears only if changing from 2 to 3 rd gear and it doesn't matter if I gradually accelerate or accelerate hard and the sound appears ONLY when the gear shift it's about to "enter" 3rd gear. If I'm going with the 2nd gear for 30 km long, no siren.. From 4th to 3rd gear no strange noise. Just from 2 to 3.

Hello guys, I was following and reading this forum for a while when I decided to write because I could not find anything related to my problem. To describe the problem: O3 1.6 TDI '13 5 speed manual started to have a noise like a police siren JUST when changing gear from 2 to 3 and only. The rest gear shifts are normal with no strange noise. The noise it's the same even if I change gear at 2000 rpm or 2500 or 3000 and so on and appears only if I move the gear stick to change gear. In case I'm passing 3rd gear and from 2nd gear I move straight to 4th gear, the sound disappear. No sound from 3 to 2 or 4 to 5 or 5 to 4 and so on. It doesn't matter if the engine/gearbox are cold or at the working temperature. Turbo was replace 100k ago and now the car has 206k. The car has a stage 1 remap from 30k and this noise started from about 190k and since then it does not increase or decreased. Any ideas to help me find the root cause? I used sound dampening materials in doors and floor to reduce the noise and vibrations in cabin and finished with a pretty good level reduction and can't live with this "siren" anymore..

Hello all, I read all the 22 pages but could not find any information about insulation of the firewall. Does anyone do the wall between the cabin and the TDI engine? I wonder if it's worth it as the space it's limited. Another question: How can a TDI(EA288) be quieter in an Audi A4 or VW Passat B8 ( outside and inside) than a TDI(EA288) on a Superb? Does this may be due to firewall noise insulation or there are other things that affect this insulation? Thx,

UPDATE Changed the water pump. It was stuck on closed. OE pump lasted 3 years and 40.000 km( aprox). The issue of this failure was the coolant. Maybe a bad proportion of coolant and water or the coolant itself ( G13). The next step it’s to wash all the system properly and to change front radiator, but all of these after the wedding. Thank you all for your support.

I saw a guy on youtube who changed the water pump on a Golf 7 TDI with an aftermarket one without the electric sleeve. With the electrical sleeve partially stuck, there was no flow on the inlet hose on the expansion tank. After he put aftermarket pump without sleeve, there was water flow on that hose even with cold engine. I know the sleeve actual block the water flow to let the engine warm-up quickly, but I checked when the temperature was at 90 degreese, so the sleeve has to be opened.

I just tried to unplug the connector of the water pump. Only difference was the fault code on VCDS. With water temperature on VCDS at 90 degrees, I unpluged the inlet hose from the expansion tank and no water flow from it. I think I have a totally stucked sleeve in the closed position. Btw, the heating in the cabin was off(climatronic turned off) while I was doing this test, when I put the heating on 24 degrees, I had water flow from the inlet hose. It’s a 5 speed manual, so no DSG thermostat.

Thank you again for the replys. Now I suspect the wather pump, even if it was changed 3 years ago with OE.. Is there any way to see if it’s working(water pump)?

Initially I thought VCDS would make the Bleeding process ok but now I’m having doubts. I will ask the local dealer to run a odis bleeding and hope it will be ok after. Is there any way I can diagnose the switchable water pump?

Can it be reservoir with silikat bag even if it has not “Mitt silikat” tag in it? I’m not having Mitt silikat tag on the reservoir and it was not changed 100%.

Yes, there is an option where you can run bleeding process. @J.R. Definetely it’s not the case with silikat bag. I’m not having the reservoir with that bag. It’s the reservoir from the factory. I parked the car in the garage and left it through the night without the shield under the engine. No leaks on the floor. Just one strange case: I could hear a noise from the coolant reservoir and I presume the cap or the reservoir could not mentaim the pressure. It could be a good idea to change both( I will have them changed). My water pump has 3 years old and 60.000 km. The thing is each time the behave not normal. I can’t make the pump work by off and on the engine. Maybe my pump it’s fully stuck..but without the coolant cap I can make the thermostat to open. When I put the cap on, it’s starting to overheat. Thank you guys for the answers.

Hello guys, My problems occurred during the summer time while after the DPF reg the car started to boil the coolant and evacuate it over the coolant cap. That thing was sorted out with the Heater Matrix replacement. The cold weather came and the car won't blow heat into the cabin on the passenger side ( LHD) as into the driver side( the difference between the 2 sides was at least 15 degrees). I gained information as much as I could and in a good weather day I started to flush the whole coolant system of the car. I was having 40 L of distillate water and 3x 1.5L G12++ coolant + a good radiator flush from LiquiMolly. Also had an VCDS interface to run the bleeding procedure for the main system and for the low temperature system. Started with the actual coolant drain from the car, which BTW was not in the baddest condition(like color) but it had some deposits like sand into it. Disconnected the hoses from the main radiator, charge cooler radiator and from the auxiliary pump. Until this, everything was fine. Flushed the system with distillate water for 3 times. At the end, I made the coolant level with 50% distillate water and 50% G12++ coolant, but the thing is Skoda Manual it's saying the actual capacity of the coolant system it's about 8.4 L and I managed to fill with about 4.5 liters trough the coolant cap even after several Bleeding Procedures with VCDS. The car ran well in this condition for about 50 km when I stopped for about 2-3 hours and when I started again, the coolant level in the coolant cap was under MIN( I presume the low coolant system sucked the coolant when I stopped the car). Put in the coolant mix until MAX and got back another 50 km without any issues. The next day, at a low speed but uphill I noticed the gauge from the water temperature it's raising but I didn't let it generate message to stop and I turned the heating to HI and full power on the ventilation. Opened the bonnet and the level was above the MAX( at this time the main FAN on the radiator was at high speed). At that moment I was expecting a Thermostat issue, as the car has about 9 years without changing it( it's my car since new). Got a mechanic took out the thermostat( this happened on Saturday after 16:00 PM so no shop with car parts available), but running a road test the car was having the same symptoms ( temperature raise above 110 degrees on VCDS) as the car was not running water through the radiator even if the thermostat was not present. I presume there is air into the system( BTW the refill of the coolant was not done with pressure air, just manual..) and I run about 4 bleeding procedures but no joy. After a couple of hours of staying off the car was running like a car without thermostat. Bought a new OE thermostat the other day and put in and the it has the same problem, temperature raises and the water it's not passing through the Thermostat to reach the radiator. I followed some YT video with the thermostat replacement and I can say it's properly mounted, no leaks in that area. The water pump was changed in 2019 with a new OE one, so it has 3 years and about 60.000 km( when suddenly cracked and the red message came) Tried with a brand new coolant cap and no joy. Tried several times to run bleeding procedure with VCDS( it's saying finished OK) but it's not making any differences, car still overheats. I'm not having symptoms like water in the Oil or oil in the water. I tried to run into the neighborhood without the coolant cap, the temperature stopped raising at about 104 degrees on VCDS while I opened the bonnet and saw the coolant tank empty and the hoses from the thermostat to the radiator HOT. While I was putting water into the coolant tank, the temperature on VCDS immediately dropped under 90 degrees( as it's normal). I put the coolant cap on again and start a trip on the highway. After about 5 km again the temperature was raising again to about 110 degrees and the thermostat won't open. I know it's a long story but I'm having this issue for about 2 weeks while I was reading many topics related to this problem and still can't figure out what's the issue. I booked in a visit with the local Skoda Dealer for a review but it will be on 15 of December. If anyone can have an advice into this matter or now how can I try to bleed the system properly without an air system I would much appreciate. The car was running normally until I flushed the system. The problems happened only after this.