SkudMissile21

Rear wiper is a must for me having missed it on my old mk2. parking sensors all around are great and auto trigger when close to things too but the camera is brilliant for parking. used to have park assist but I don’t miss it on this one. real driving averaging 28mpg for me but I do like to enjoy the power and I live high up so every journey involves climbing a lot of hill to get home hence I can get about 36mpg going to work (28miles motorway and lanes) and between 22-31 coming home (usually around 26 to be honest...) a 272 would’ve been nice for the 7 gears but I’m more than happy with my 280 and it goes like stink (saw off a diesel m6 the other day too much to my surprise!) and is rarer than rocking horse droppings too now. great cars, get one you’ll love it!

So is this just indicating the load on the alternator / battery is a bit high and it’s trying to shut off this auxiliary heater then? I do have a subwoofer and amp fitted so it’s possible there is a bigger draw than the car is expecting but everything is working fine, start stop still operates sometimes though since the weather has got cold it’s not that often (I guess this is normal behaviour though?)

Had this strange fault code on my scans recently which seems to reappear next time I scan after clearing but can’t seem to find anything to indicate what it means! the car is under warranty until September and having its first MOT on Tuesday morning (not at the dealers though). Everything on the car seems to be working, running genuine VCDS Hex-V2 up to date. Address 08: Auto HVAC (E87) Labels:| 3V0-907-044.clb Part No SW: 3V0 907 044 CS HW: 3V0 907 044 CS Component: AC Automat H34 4402 Revision: 20K10000 Serial number: 00000B00782331 Coding: 1111000400211001100500400010102A Shop #: WSC 33361 790 00158 ASAM Dataset: EV_ACClimaPrehVW37X 002025 ROD: EV_ACClimaPrehVW37X_002_VW37.rod VCID: 074B9F4FEFADA893328-8052 Humidity sensor: exterior: Rear A/C control head: 1 Fault Found: 1048835 - Functionality limited due to Engine Control Module P1719 00 [008] - - [PTC-Reduzierung durch MSG] Intermittent - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 00000001 Fault Priority: 6 Fault Frequency: 13 Reset counter: 21 Mileage: 38915 km Date: 2020.12.28 Time: 07:52:01 Voltage terminal 30: 14.4 V Auxiliary heater: in stages-Enabling for auxiliary heater operation: Enabling stage 1 Auxiliary heater: in stages-Act.val.: 1 Auxiliary heater: in stages-Target value: 3 Auxiliary heater: in stages-Specified value for control: 3 Any clues? I would’ve phoned the dealer already but they’re 25 miles away from me and with all the COVID hassles at the moment it’s not that easy for me to take the car to them and leave it there to check (as opposed to being able to wait in the showroom like normal times....)

My 2018 sportline factory camera has moving bars. If you move the steering wheel while stationary they will move on the screen

Got my Christmas payslip today with some extra bonus money I’d forgotten about so I’ve treated myself (and the beast) to a DTUK pedal box. Hopefully that will bridge the lag gap for normal driving a bit until I’ve got the car paid for and out of warranty when I’ll possibly be tempted by a revo stage 1....

There’s progress for you, my 2018 MIB2.5 has two SD slots, a dvd drive and a sim slot in the glove box unit plus a usb under the infotainment screen and the newest ones just have a USB port

That’s why I’m thinking my early next year present to self is gonna be a pedal box! Where is the best place to get one though? I searched for the DTUK ones but couldn’t seem to find an official distributor.

Similar thread here: Infotainment splash screens I found my infotainment would display the Monte Carlo logo with option 7 I think but the maxi dot wouldn’t do that particular logo.

Silly answer but why not just get a miniature large capacity usb stick? I’ve got an old 64gb that’s not much bigger than the USB port and I know you can get 128gb ones cheap these days.

I do find mine changes up a bit too soon for me in drive mode while in sport it’s the other end of the extreme holding gears way too long for normal non foot to the floor driving. this does lead to it feeling a bit unresponsive when just trying to get up to speed after junctions etc, so much so I’m considering a pedal box in future as I’ve already tried the VCDS throttle mods and found it made no noticeable difference to me. id love to know if the shift points could be altered with VCDS but I’m guessing that’s why dsg remaps exist....

My 2018 sportline has the sunroof, no issues at all so far with noise from the roof or any signs of leaking. have opened it up a few times but can’t really see myself ever using it, just happened to have been specced by the original purchaser/dealer so it’s there. I do like the look of the black glass on the roof though and the view from inside is nice when I look up.

Sorry only just seen this. You go into the menu on the app and there is an option for diagnostic dump (I think, something like that) which will take about half an hour then when finished it gives you the option to upload to them. Just make sure you have a good signal or are within Wi-Fi range before you try to send it. They will then usually send you an invite to beta test and you can download it and use the features for free for a month

Depends on what you want the remap for. If it’s to get up to normal speeds that you drive at now and are comfortable and safe to stop from but just a bit quicker then no need to change from standard. If you’re planning to drive it harder and take corners faster etc then brakes and suspension would maybe be a good upgrade. for reference I remapped my old superb 2 as it was 140bhp diesel (went to around 170bhp) and I’d come from a 180bhp petrol vRS octy but never did any other upgrades. the brakes and suspension on both former cars were not great for the speeds I could drive at but then I was sensible enough to know the limits and not exceed them in normal driving. contrast my current car (superb mk3 4x4 280bhp) which has insane power but also has a decent brake setup as standard and I can still drive it beyond sensible limits if I choose to do it all comes down to your own standards. Personally for the relatively small increase we are talking about in your case (not like the 80bhp a stage one on mine would give) I wouldn’t worry about the rest and just make sure you use it appropriately for the conditions.

I’ve logged mine (standard not remapped) using an obd2 dongle and shift OBD app on my phone at 5.2secs 0-60 and 13.8 1/4 mile but that was in the dry. I think most people expect below 5 for 0-60 once you have a stage 1. sorry for going a bit off topic anyway!

Oh yes I stand corrected, in your original thread you did indeed say it was 1.6bar instead of 1.8bar though that kind of indicated your mapper didn’t know what he was talking about since everyone else has said all other stage 1’s are 1.6bar as well. still don’t think I’d be trusting his map at all even with the upgraded turbo but glad to hear you’ve got it back on the road and running ok! think I’ll be sticking with a revo if I ever do mine.

Can’t comment on the figures as I don’t know but didn’t you say originally that it was only mapped for 1.4bar as apparently “1.6bar blows turbos” right before the map blew your turbo...?!

Kenny’s photo above is exactly the setup I have though I know you can get a hardwire kit for the nextbase models that replaces the cigarette lighter shaped adapter with flying leads that go straight to a piggy back fuse as that’s what I installed in my wife’s car. It’s expensive in hellfrauds but I think we got it from Amazon during one of their sales so it made sense at the time.

Just get a piggy back fuse and a cable mounted socket then you can wire it into one of the fuses behind the glove box. That’s what I did and it works as you describe when the ignition is on it’s powered and goes off when ignition is switched off. attached is where mine is connected

Someone on here has done it and it sounded like a very expensive and very technically challenging job requiring various coding tools to get working (maybe dealer level access as well but not sure?)

Same here (apart from adding a sub in the boot), I’d love the idea of a remap in the future once it’s paid for and out of warranty but it is already a very quick car really like you say and plenty of times when I’ve booted it I’ve had to back off either because I’m doing license losing speeds on a motorway or I’m doing stupid speeds on a country road so in reality I don’t know if I’ll ever remap it. Already had a scare last weekend at 6am on a motorway in the wet after overtaking some traffic and getting lit up like a Christmas tree from behind, luckily I pulled straight over and he chose to keep going

I know it’s not the same situation but I fell foul of the dodgy sach’s clutch on my old mk2 superb 2.0 diesel manual at 56k miles where the clutch pressure plate fails and machines it’s way through the gearbox housing and that ended up costing me £2k at my usual independent (didn’t realise it was likely to be so catastrophic at first and the car hadn’t been back to Skoda due to not wanting the dieselgate update and by the time they had taken the gearbox out to find what I then suspected to be true Skoda didn’t want to know...) New gearbox housing, full rebuild and new clutch and dual mass flywheel, cha ching! if someone had told me I could’ve spent £600 before to replace the clutch and flywheel I would’ve jumped at it, hindsight eh?! £700 is a bitter pill to swallow (and all the extras I’ll admit) but I’d still be tempted to take it and get the car sorted, at least then you can either keep it or shift it quick. I seriously considered scrapping the car but due to still owing money on it at the time couldn’t. (As it was I drove it on until 87k with no issues when I got my mk3)

I had it on my mk2 and it was excellent. Always got me into spaces I would never have attempted myself and always seemed to park pretty close and parallel to the kerb. I can remember a few occasions when it got me in a really tight space that I thought I was gonna struggle to get out of again!

Have to agree to disagree with you there, kessy is something I never wanted before I had it but I think it’s great now. don’t think you can count the three seconds it takes to move the fob as a waste of time really.....

If you’re worried about theft then why not get a faraday pouch for each key? I can confirm these ones work - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Car-Key-Signal-Blocker-Case-Pouch-Bag-Black-Faraday-Cage-Keyless-RFID-Blocking-/323930080115?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292 they come with a small keychain to keep the key fob on and two internal pockets. The innermost one blocks the signals and the outer one doesn’t. Easy to keep the key in the blocking pouch at home and when leaving the car parked up then just swap it into the other pouch when going back to the car. I keep it in my pocket when driving and don’t have any issues with the system not seeing the key or unlocking first time unless I forget to move it from the blocking pouch!

Interesting to see you can have either a 280 OR a 272 engine, wonder why that is?!