almostsuperb

Thanks for the replies - I have got it sorted now without having to double the value of the car with spare parts. First problem was the adjustment: quick look and mess around showed that the white plastic gears (photo below) that can be used to adjust the beam were eroded/corroded (another photo) and not gripping the knurled bit of the adjuster shaft so just spinning freely - found rotodiesel's helpful advice (below) which helped no end and alignment is now OK. No related errors on VCDS so leaving well enough alone on that front. Second problem was the condition of the headlight units. Bought a Meguiar's kit to restore them - the sanding pads were too fine to deal with the state of the lights (the coarsest pad is 1800 grit) so started with 600 grit (wet n dry), then 1200 and then used the pads with the kit - lots of spraying with water as well. I was a bit concerned at how well these kits would work but have been nicely surprised - the lights are looking nice now (driving at night is also a whole lot better - like I've put new bulbs in...). The idea of sanding headlights still seems a bit weird though but I'll happily do it annually to avoid buying replacements! Now need to stick on some UV barrier solution or something similar. I managed to find out the Hella part numbers (well, that's what I assume they are!) in case they are of use to anyone else. They were at the bottom of the light and just visible in the gap between the top of the bumper and bottom of the headlight with aid of a torch: 246 745-00L & 246 746-00 R. Photo of one attached. I've not had any dramas with the car, fuel pump or other v6-specific problems. Bought it just over 5 years ago and put 130000 miles on it (now at 190000) - aside from general maintenance have only had to replace an alternator, a door lock and some window winding cable things so it's done me very well and I hope I'll get a few more miles out of it yet.

I have wondered about that - I think I can see the beams moving when I turn ignition on so I think that the motors are OK. Feedback from tester was that the screws in the adjustment mechanism were turning far too easily and beam was not moving. Will have a play tonight with VCDS and some tools and see if it becomes any clearer (forgive the pun...).

Hello My car has failed its MOT as a result of failed headlight adjustment mechanism (on both sides...) so tester couldn't get the beam alignment right. They are also clouded / hazed but I can sort that out easily enough - I'm more worried about the lack of ability to set the beam. I can't find any evidence of a repair kit for the mechanism on the interweb so got a quote for new headlamps (xenons): £600+VAT each! The shock was offset a bit by the realisation that fitting them would probably double the value of the car. No joy with breakers but I've found some aftermarket stuff on the internet (lots of choice for Halogens but a lot less for Xenon) and I've found a few variants - but they all seem to be a bit different and all claim to fit my car... Does anyone know the VAG or Hella part number(s) so I can compare? Car is 2005 (55) v6 2.5 tdi elegance. Any help would be very much appreciated James

Thanks dieselV6, I had read a guide to doing this (I think it was in the vcds forum on briskoda) which seemed to recommend using something to hold the pump in place whilst moving the pulley on the camshaft but I couldn't work out how that would change the timing... Thanks for making it clear, looks like a job for Sunday.

When setting the injection pump timing should the fuel pump sprocket be held stationary whilst adjusting the position of the sprocket mounted on the on the camshaft? Can the camshaft-mounted sprocket be moved by hand or are other methods needed? Not had to adjust timing this way before so some advice would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Sorry - ignore all that, I was being over-cautious. Eventually convinced myself that I had the right parts, couldn't have put any pulleys / sprockets in the wrong place, that tensioner pulley was correctly set up and so tensioned the belt to 15 Nm. The hydraulic tensioning pin moved out quite a way but has since slowly retracted back to the "correct" position so all sorted. Relieved and somewhat sheepish...

Hello, I had meant to say that in the newbie bit but a request for some help / advice has beaten me to it... I'm currently working my way through the fun-fest that is the cambelt change on my 2.5 v6 tdi (a BDG version) mk. 1 Superb. After some faff and irritation I am starting to put it all back together - but the process of tensioning the cam/toothed belt doesn't feel right so would appreciate some advice. Am using the manuals I've downloaded from erwin and the Gates info off the interweb. Using VAG parts from TPS. The car is currently is in the following state: lock carrier in service position, crankshaft locked with the Special Tool, new tension and guide pulleys installed along with a new water pump (and also new thermostat and hydraulic tensioning thingy...). Both camshafts are also held with the Flat Plates of Trust; the camshaft sprockets are held on with finger tight bolts (i.e. the sprockets can turn on the coned shafts but not tilt). I have routed the belt as described in the manuals. I've slowly depressing the hydraulic unit and removed the locking pin but when I try to tension the belt (using a hex key in the hole in the tensioner pulley as indicated in manuals) I get a lot of deflection in the belt - the Gates info (link below, Fig. 13) shows the correct position is when the underside of arm (where the piston from the hydraulic unit touches) and the collar of the hydraulic tensioner unit are parallel (and that's how it was with the old belt) - but I get to this position at 8 - 10 Nm and most definitely into the "incorrect" position (Fig 14) at any more torque. I presume that the "correct position" allows margin in the hydraulic unit to maintain belt tension when it's stretched but that the "incorrect" position does not. Link to Gates info: http://ww2.gates.com/europe/file_display_common.cfm?thispath=Europe/documents_module&file=TB_042_E2_VAG_2.5-V6_TDI.pdf I have repeatedly checked the orientation of the tension roller - with belt off I've pushed the underside of the tensioning arm to mimic the action of the hydraulic tensioner unit the tensioner pulley gets pushed away from the connecting arm as it should. I'm not sure what else I can check (apart from part numbers - done that!) or can have installed incorrectly - as I see it the tension on the belt is set by its length (and its strength in tension) and the length of the path it's routed through - and the loosely fitted cam sprockets will allow the tension to even out along the length of the belt so avoiding locking in torque on only one leg. I'm not proceeding any further until I've got this sorted / clear. Is the info in the Gates manual duff / have torque settings changed / any views on what might be amiss if not? Any help much appreciated, James