DensYeti

Having fitted a new motor from Auto Dock it works in slightly different way (simpler?). Here are some photos. The cover over the end of the wiper arm..just leaver out and up around bottom and it pivots up at the 2 little hook bits sticking out on top right so then just pull off arm. Inside of cap showing small protrusions that hold it in place The arm is pushed onto a tapered spline on the motor spindle. That can be a bit corroded and difficult to get arm pulled off after the nut has been removed.....much Plus Gas over a few days. The washer nozzle will just pull off the end. I used a couple of C shaped plates inserted between end of wiper arm against which to leaver......could not get my medium size 3 leg puller to pull arm off. Believe there is a small puller that does the job with centre bolt acting against the motor spindle where the washer nozzle has been pulled off.

2010 1.2 Tsi S petrol 60,156 miles from new 26/12/2010 ABS and TCS warning lights came on intermittently at first, stayed on for a while then went off. Came back on again some time later then off. This happened over a few days. Then both came on permanently and have stayed on. Local garage that does my service pluged in and said rear nearside sensor showing up with fault (therefore TCS will also show). No urgent problem just be aware no ABS. I am used to driving without ABS all my driving life with vintage, PVT and classic cars so not bothered. 1. Is the rear sensor a magnetic or light sensitive device? 2. I live in rural area and up a farm track so it can get rather mucky underneath so would that cause malfunction? 3. What does sensor look like and where is it located and is it easily changed? 4. Any other possible cause such as a loose plug/dirty contacts and where likely? 5. Are sensors known to be not too robust? I have a pit so can get under easily......maybe just a good clean up around sensor? Awaiting optimistically Dennis

Yeti 2010 1.2 Tsi Petrol. FAULT Rear wiper became intermittent. Stayed parked when switched on or rear wash given a push. Left on and go to wiper and give it a nudge and it behaved normally; sometimes it would work normally strait away, sometimes if left on and driving along it would start working again. Eventually it stoped working altogether and nothing ever started it New wiper fitted by garage (at my cost I was busy doing other work) and new wiper works in a simple fashion. Great! What it does:- occasionally selecting reverse it will do one sweep; Parks in one position (unlike previous new which used to park a little higher at first then after (was it two sweeps?) it parked in fully down position: switch on wiper and it does a few sweeps and parks (only ever in one position) then carries on doing one sweep at a set time till switched off. I like to fix things so diagnosed possible loose connection, worn motor brushes etc. I have now just had time to examine wiper unit. Plastic lid comes off easily, must pull the washer jet off the wiper blade end first then remove the 9 T15 TORX screws. Directly on the motor are 2 tag-strips sticking up that make with 2 terminals on the lid. Connecting a 12V to these runs the motor smoothly every time ( must connect + and - right way round to get motor turning in right direction). On the lid there is a box with a lid that lifts off and inside there is a printed circuit board (PCB) which obviously must deal with number of initial sweeps then time delays between following sweeps and the two different parking positions. The 2 terminals above the motor connect along a channel to the PCB (2 little white dots at top of that channel running from PCB box to motor) On the motor lid is the input socket with 4 terminals. I have determined that what must be the negative (earth?) side of the motor's 2 pins (lower goes to the first terminal of the plug on the left looking at the photo and the top motor terminal is the +. I can see where the 4 plug pins join and solder to the PCB (bottom of PCB) and where the 2 outputs to the motor are soldered to the PCB (top left of boar). The mechanical parts inside all look in unworn condition and anyway I hate throwing away such units. I am thinking of options: 1. Replace lid with PCB on it with new one; 2. Replace PCB only after unsoldering old one. 3. connect wire from plug to motor so wiper works as a simple on/off with the column stalk (ok so would be continuous but maybe one position would provide 1 wipe only). Would this possibly damage any other circuit/control unit on the car? I am retire electronics engineer and have worked on far more complex equipment to component level replacement. Has anyone got a circuit diagram of the PCB with a functional description/readings? It might be an interesting challenge to repair it! Does anyone supply the lid only with the PCB? Does anyone supply the PCB only anyway?

Wife pulled up at junction then went to pull away but pedal was on floor (engine running ok) and no reaction to pressing pedal. People behind helped push her to side of road. Checking the pedal she found it was just floppy up and down. Walk down to nearby local garage just opening and they said either borrow the courtesy car to go OAP early morning shop and they would go up and look at car later in day or call RAC. She went back to car switched on and started engine and found pedal was up in correct position so drove the 3 miles home. I have had a look and pedal feels ok going up and down with no odd catching or resistance and all seems well. Can anyone offer an explanation as to what might have happened?? What is the mechanism that sends the signal to the ECU.....rotating resistor?? If pedal was just floppy and on the floor why was engine not revving with stuck throttle open??? A mystery. Dennis

2010 1.2 Tsi basic model. My rear antiroll bar snapped off completely, just outboard of the mounting bracket!!! Surprised to see the bar is HOLLOW. I am a conservative driver so no wild cornering. Milage only about 58,000. I drive in first gently up our farm track of 0.6 miles. Anyone else had this problem? All rubber bushes in links were ok. Dennis