Phil866

I have projectors as the dipped beam on mine and fitted Ring +150's, however the biggest improvement was simply to have the beam correctly aligned. That made a big difference.

A common complaint. Here's an up to date Autoexpress review of legal bulbs. https://www.autoexpress.co.uk/product-group-tests/76760/best-car-headlight-bulbs-2021

Interesting chart below. Same for all metals apparently.

I have a 1.2 htp 12 valve and I have never seen the manifold glow red hot, or even change colour (on this or any other standard road car). It sounds like the valve or ignition timing is out allowing still burning gasses (or an incompletely burned mixture) into the exhaust system rather than the cooler post ignition gasses of a correctly timed engine. So unless you are using jet fuel it should not be that hot.

I went for Brembo too as they are the big name in braking and also bought from Eurocarparts. I took it back to the garage that serviced the car and fitted the Brembo bits and they could find no fault at all that may explain the juddering. We decided that as nothing had been found we would change the pads and discs for Pagid and see what happened. As I say this cured the problem immediately and permanently. Seems the Brembo pads/disc did just not suit my F111 brake set up. Easy fix and not too expensive as Eurocarparts seem to have a sale on every other day.

Can you give us a bit more? Manual or auto? Does the gearchange not select reverse at all, if it does can you feel the gear engaging.? Can you engage reverse with the engine running and the clutch engaged? Did you hear any noises etc?

Definitely a 2+2 rather than a 4 seater I think.

Hi all, my partners old Fiesta died the other day so I offered to pass on my Fabia HTP Elegance to her. So I've taken the opportunity to return to the Kia fold and bought a 2yr old Picanto 1.0T GDi GT Line with 6,000 on the clock and 5 yrs warranty remaining. I'm very impressed with the Picanto so far but it is smaller. Anyway hopefully I will be allowed to stay on this forum as I will be looking after my old car and driving it frequently.

I had the same issue a year ago about 2,000 miles after I had Brembo discs and pads fitted to my F111 brakes (1.2 HTP). Juddering when braking and especially bad when hot motorway driving which really shook the steering wheel. I had them changed for Pagid discs and pads which cured the issue completely.

I've just tried and my hearing aids are only very slightly attracted by a strong magnet. So if that fails I would try skomaz's suggestion of removing the pollen filter under the dash (dead easy), finding a few bumpy traffic calming road bumps and then performing a few tight turns to see if you can encourage the thing to fall out, all this in an empty car park of course. I have NHS hearing aids and lost one in a gale a few years ago. They replaced it free without issue.

Tell me off if I'm patronising but new tyres do need a few hundred miles to 'run in' https://www.continental-tyres.co.uk/car/all-about-tyres/tyre-change-fitting/changing-tyres/braking-with-new-tyres and brakes, especially front, will get very hot when used hard (never poke your finger on a hot brake disc, it hurts!) as they have to absorb a lot of energy. As I suggested I would first have your current setup serviced as they may not be up to full efficiency. Owners on here have upgraded their brakes with doner parts from Golf's etc but mostly for aesthetic or track day event reasons. There are several 'how to' threads if you search but it's not a simple take off and bolt on exercise. as I say sorry if I come over a bit patronising and I hope you sort it.

I have a standard 1.2 htp elegance and the brakes are just fine, even after very hard driving. If you feel they are not on your car I suggest you give them a good service and change discs/pads as appropriate. There is nothing wrong with drum brakes an lower powered cars, in fact they can be a bonus. Rear brakes do not in fact do that much work, which is why you frequently see rear discs as rusty, pitted and seized. My car has covered 103k miles and still has the original drums and shoes. If your abs is kicking in it suggests you brakes are working just fine but your tyres are loosing grip during braking for whatever reason so I would check your tyres. No point in chucking money and time upgrading brakes when not needed.

From memory any auxiliary lights in the UK designed or intended to work alongside a dipped beam must adhere to certain legal conditions. Front fog lights for example have to be within certain set measurements to be legal and must have a separate warning light and switch. On main beam you can fit pretty much fit what you like, blow your alternator up if you like. Checkout your average HGV tractor unit or tyre fitters van to see how many spot and driving lights can be bolted to the front of a vehicle..... In regards to the feed for the aux high beam led lights I would take a piggy back fuse feed from either of the left or right main beam fuses in the main fuse box under the dashboard.

I frequently get small stones caught between the stone guard and the disc which usually squeal when cornering or braking. They sound like a dry overheating bearing! Reversing sometimes clears them, if not I poke the stone guard with a small hammer handle through a gap between the alloy wheel spokes which always lets the stone fall out.

Here's one of my Avon ZV's when I first had the car. This tyre had covered 3,000 miles. Sorting the tracking sorted it and the Kumho's I fitted after lasted almost 20.000 miles.