Phil866

I have projectors as the dipped beam on mine and fitted Ring +150's, however the biggest improvement was simply to have the beam correctly aligned. That made a big difference.

A common complaint. Here's an up to date Autoexpress review of legal bulbs. https://www.autoexpress.co.uk/product-group-tests/76760/best-car-headlight-bulbs-2021

Interesting chart below. Same for all metals apparently.

I have a 1.2 htp 12 valve and I have never seen the manifold glow red hot, or even change colour (on this or any other standard road car). It sounds like the valve or ignition timing is out allowing still burning gasses (or an incompletely burned mixture) into the exhaust system rather than the cooler post ignition gasses of a correctly timed engine. So unless you are using jet fuel it should not be that hot.

I went for Brembo too as they are the big name in braking and also bought from Eurocarparts. I took it back to the garage that serviced the car and fitted the Brembo bits and they could find no fault at all that may explain the juddering. We decided that as nothing had been found we would change the pads and discs for Pagid and see what happened. As I say this cured the problem immediately and permanently. Seems the Brembo pads/disc did just not suit my F111 brake set up. Easy fix and not too expensive as Eurocarparts seem to have a sale on every other day.

Can you give us a bit more? Manual or auto? Does the gearchange not select reverse at all, if it does can you feel the gear engaging.? Can you engage reverse with the engine running and the clutch engaged? Did you hear any noises etc?

Definitely a 2+2 rather than a 4 seater I think.

Hi all, my partners old Fiesta died the other day so I offered to pass on my Fabia HTP Elegance to her. So I've taken the opportunity to return to the Kia fold and bought a 2yr old Picanto 1.0T GDi GT Line with 6,000 on the clock and 5 yrs warranty remaining. I'm very impressed with the Picanto so far but it is smaller. Anyway hopefully I will be allowed to stay on this forum as I will be looking after my old car and driving it frequently.

I had the same issue a year ago about 2,000 miles after I had Brembo discs and pads fitted to my F111 brakes (1.2 HTP). Juddering when braking and especially bad when hot motorway driving which really shook the steering wheel. I had them changed for Pagid discs and pads which cured the issue completely.

I've just tried and my hearing aids are only very slightly attracted by a strong magnet. So if that fails I would try skomaz's suggestion of removing the pollen filter under the dash (dead easy), finding a few bumpy traffic calming road bumps and then performing a few tight turns to see if you can encourage the thing to fall out, all this in an empty car park of course. I have NHS hearing aids and lost one in a gale a few years ago. They replaced it free without issue.

Tell me off if I'm patronising but new tyres do need a few hundred miles to 'run in' https://www.continental-tyres.co.uk/car/all-about-tyres/tyre-change-fitting/changing-tyres/braking-with-new-tyres and brakes, especially front, will get very hot when used hard (never poke your finger on a hot brake disc, it hurts!) as they have to absorb a lot of energy. As I suggested I would first have your current setup serviced as they may not be up to full efficiency. Owners on here have upgraded their brakes with doner parts from Golf's etc but mostly for aesthetic or track day event reasons. There are several 'how to' threads if you search but it's not a simple take off and bolt on exercise. as I say sorry if I come over a bit patronising and I hope you sort it.

I have a standard 1.2 htp elegance and the brakes are just fine, even after very hard driving. If you feel they are not on your car I suggest you give them a good service and change discs/pads as appropriate. There is nothing wrong with drum brakes an lower powered cars, in fact they can be a bonus. Rear brakes do not in fact do that much work, which is why you frequently see rear discs as rusty, pitted and seized. My car has covered 103k miles and still has the original drums and shoes. If your abs is kicking in it suggests you brakes are working just fine but your tyres are loosing grip during braking for whatever reason so I would check your tyres. No point in chucking money and time upgrading brakes when not needed.

From memory any auxiliary lights in the UK designed or intended to work alongside a dipped beam must adhere to certain legal conditions. Front fog lights for example have to be within certain set measurements to be legal and must have a separate warning light and switch. On main beam you can fit pretty much fit what you like, blow your alternator up if you like. Checkout your average HGV tractor unit or tyre fitters van to see how many spot and driving lights can be bolted to the front of a vehicle..... In regards to the feed for the aux high beam led lights I would take a piggy back fuse feed from either of the left or right main beam fuses in the main fuse box under the dashboard.

I frequently get small stones caught between the stone guard and the disc which usually squeal when cornering or braking. They sound like a dry overheating bearing! Reversing sometimes clears them, if not I poke the stone guard with a small hammer handle through a gap between the alloy wheel spokes which always lets the stone fall out.

Here's one of my Avon ZV's when I first had the car. This tyre had covered 3,000 miles. Sorting the tracking sorted it and the Kumho's I fitted after lasted almost 20.000 miles.

See 'Basic Radio for Fabia 2007' thread just posted by nr26410 a few moments ago. He is looking for a swing to swop for a sony DAB.

It originally came with the 'Swing' radio and cd player. I'm very certain that someone will be along happy to swop their Swing for your Sony DAB radio with a bit of cash as well maybe.

My 1.2 htp elegance has a temp gauge and no blue warning light.

My bad, I could have sworn I read 'rear' in there.

Totally random thought here but would the car figure that if it's doing 60mph it's not foggy enough for the rear fog light? 60mph seems an exact speed that's all.....

I improved my projectors (and main beam) by replacing all 4 H7 bulbs with these https://www.autobulbsdirect.co.uk/h7-ring-xenon150-150-12v-55w-477-halogen-bulbs-pair.html 2 yrs ago now and all 4 still work fine (they come with a 6 month warranty). ABD also sell loads of other bulbs and no, I don't have any connection with them 😇. The biggest improvement however was having the headlight aim adjusted correctly.

If the advert is correct they are 'super white HID effect' and they look like standard halogen technology to me. What worries me is that they are 100 watt so definitely not road legal in the UK (55 watt max). Someone better informed than me will hopefully be along soon to advise whether this extra wattage will damage your wiring or blow fuses.

I improved my projectors (and main beam) by replacing all 4 bulbs with these https://www.autobulbsdirect.co.uk/h7-ring-xenon150-150-12v-55w-477-halogen-bulbs-pair.html 2 yrs ago now and all 4 still work fine. The biggest improvement however was having the headlight aim adjusted correctly.

I own a 1.2 htp and I'd be a bit worried about actually deleting the back box. Note below 'Spark ignition emissions, part of the system is missing'. I suspect even the most friendly of testers will have to note that the back box is missing and with that I also suspect that the increase in noise 'would be unreasonable' and attract a failure notice. You would be better off looking for a 'sportier' system (if one is available for the humble 1.2 htp). Nuisance (8) (Previously MOT Test of Exhaust and Emissions) The MOT tests both the exhaust system, and the emissions coming from the exhaust system. The May 2018 revision of the MOT Testing Manual groups exhaust emissions with noise and fluid emissions under the new heading of ‘Nuisance’. Noise suppression system The Tester will inspect: exhaust silencers under-bonnet noise deadening material fitted as original equipment. Exhaust noise will be assessed during the emissions test for the vehicle or by revving the engine to around 2,500rpm or half the maximum engine speed if this is lower on vehicles not subject to an emissions test Exhaust noise from the vehicle must not be unreasonably above the noise level normally expected from a similar vehicle with a standard silencer in average condition. The following categories apply to defects in this section: Defect Category a. Exhaust noise levels in excess of those permitted Major b. Any part of the noise suppression system: i. insecure Major ii. likely to become detached Dangerous MOT Test of Exhaust and Emissions Exhaust This part of the MOT is considerably simplified, although it now covers exhaust fumes entering the vehicle which was not the case previously. Spark ignition engine emissions This inspection is only for vehicles that must have a full catalyst emissions test (disregarding the basic emissions test (BET)). Only components that are visible and identifiable, such as catalytic converters, oxygen sensors, and exhaust gas recirculation valves will be checked. The exhaust system will fail the MOT if: Part of the system missing or excessively deteriorated Mounting are missing or damaged so that the exhaust system is insecure There is a major leak The system emits appreciably more noise than a similar vehicle fitted with a standard system in good condition.

I have a 2010 facelift 1.2 htp elegance with projector dipped lights. These stay on when high beam is selected. Both high and low beam each use a single H7 bulb rated at 55w (four bulbs in total). If your main beam flash (stalk pulled towards you against the spring) works okay when the main light switch is turned off, and also works okay when the lights are switched on dip beam then it sounds like the stalk switch is faulty to me?