Upsidedown

Thanks again. I have found that I needed to log in for some odd reason.Not had that happen before. Anyway, looks like a very interesting link which I'll need to read through carefully as it appears to have the answers I'm looking for. I'll post again a bit later as I think many considering a re-map might find the TVS comments interesting.

Unfortunately I couldn't get the bottom link to work. If you have chance could you re-post please. Thanks

Thanks. I see that TVS talk about the box being able to handle 500Nm but I'm not sure if that requires an upgraded clutch pack - -my Dutch isn't good enough to translate the relevant page(s) ! However I see that they have an agent in NZ so I might contact them to pose a few queries.

I posed the following question recently on the "other" forum but nobody has been able to give me an answer so far. Anybody here who can help? "Does the six speed DSG gearbox have a torque limiter and if so does anybody know what the maximum torque figure(s) are or where they can be found?" I posed the question because numerous commercial sites advertising DSG software upgrades state that there is a torque limiter set at 350Nm. Supposedly if you try putting more power / torque through the box it will bleed off power by slipping the clutch, which is not good news on several fronts, in order to limit the torque. However Shark, who have continuing good feedback on this and other forums, state that a Stage 1 tune on the likes of my 170 TDi will increase outputs to 205 bhp and 420Nm. Given the DSG torque limiter does the Shark Stage 1 tune therefore include some software adjustment on the gearbox. I have asked Shark directly but somewhat surprisingly have never received a response.

That'll be because of the ledge above the headlights, but under the wings, so cunningly designed by BMC 'engineers' to trap salt laden mud ! Fortunately the roads here in NZ aren't salted although we do have freezing conditions in some areas in the winter. See the following Youtube video. The normal practice has been to spread unsalted grit however the roading authorities have been trialling CMA (calcium magnesium acetate) which is applied as a spray. It is supposedly environmentally benign, unlike salt, but I've no idea how effective it is or how it compares cost wise with salt. However, crucially from the Marina's point of view, CMA is not corrosive to BMC steel.

Wetflyingmonkey: I understand that the person in Scotland has approached a number of VAG specialists who have undertaken to investigate the matter but none have so far replied. My suggestion therefore is to see if you can find somebody in your area that might be interested. If you have success you could pm me and I will forward you the contact details of the agent here who undertook the work for me. They may be able to provide your interested agent with details of who to contact in Skoda CZ for instructions. Urrell: For my sins I am also the owner of a 1973 Morris Marina Estate, on which I have inevitably done a lot of work, In comparison to the Marina I guess anything to do with a modern car could be called 'complex'!

I don't think plugging two wires onto the relevant pins on the ECU and changing one line of code using as VCDS is complex - as long as you know which pins and which code of course !

All that is required component wise to make the change is the switch (about 20 pounds) and a couple of wires with connectors. Its an easy job to fit the switch in the dash by removing one of the blanks, a bit more of a fiddle to get the wires safely through the bulkhead and then gaining access to the ECU. The problem really is in finding out what the pin configurations are for attaching the wires at both ends - probably could eventually work that out through the use of Erwin or similar - and more difficulty the code change required for the ABS block in the ECU. The latter is where I got stumped despite much effort. However I eventually managed to convince a Skoda NZ agent that it was possible to do despite what they were initially were told by Skoda CZ. As I noted the all up cost was approximately 250 pounds which included 4 hours of labour if I remember correctly. Given that this was the first time the agent had done the job they could no doubt do it quicker next time so its hardly a complex job. The most difficult bit for those wanting to do it will be convincing the agent that it can be done! I have pm'd the person in Scotland trying to get the OR fitted after I did but have yet to hear back.

To see how the OR function helps see the following video: I have experienced a similar situation in mud.

Oops wrong link. I don't suppose you are interested in NZ statistics ! Instead try: http://www.mytiguan.com/index.php?/topic/32362-offroad-function-button-how2/

Greetings Youngbaz from New Zealand. I think I'm the one Llanigraham was referring to. So to clear up a potential misunderstanding ...... I can confirm that I had the Off-Road button retrofitted by a Skoda agent in NZ earlier this year. (I have a 2015, 125kw 2.0TDi 4x4) The cost was approximately 250 pounds. I can also confirm that all the functions work and that I have used it "in anger" several times already. I can't unfortunately confirm the coding change required as not surprisingly the agents are not prepared to give it out, but they did confirm that what they did was basically as per the instructions in the following video for a VW Tiguan: http://www.stats.govt.nz/infoshare/SelectVariables.aspx?pxID=c2b029d2-b014-4818-b9e1-e327634a09df Another Yeti owner in Scotland was going to try to get the button retro fitted following my experience. I haven't heard back as to how they got on but given your interest I might follow up.

I fully agree with Vwyetinym, the usually very helpful manual is not good at describing where the jacking points are. I have a Monte Carlo which has the additional side mouldings to the sills. I had assumed that these were covering up the (mythical?) jacking point location arrows. I also have the Rough Road package fitted which extends across the underside of the vehicle as far as the sill lip. Consequently until I picked up on this thread I thought that the jacking points were the reinforced parts of the sill lips / drain holes as there is know way I would want to lift the car on the plastic parts. I have had several Hondas and Toyotas in the past and the jacking points have always been the reinforced part of the sill lip. Have I been risking life and limb using these points on the Yeti? It would be very helpful therefore if a forum member could post photos showing the arrows and the correct position for lifting the vehicle.

Cross Climates look as though they'd be ideal for New Zealand where there is often a wide fluctuation of temperatures in the winter, either day to day or when travelling from lower areas up into the mountains. However the designated Michelin importers in NZ have, somewhat surprisingly, told me that they have no plans to import Cross Climates. So has any body any brilliant ideas as to how I could get a set (225/50/17) - for example a dealer in the UK who may be willing to arrange for delivery to NZ?

I had my Yeti in for its first service last week and took the opportunity to ask the dealer to check for any fault codes re the window problem. There were none showing up but interestingly the technician found that there was a software patch to fix what must be a known programming problem - despite suggestions from various quarters about sitting on keys, keys in pockets, etc being the cause. Hopefully therefore problem solved.

Coincidentally I started a not dissimilar topic about the time this thread livened up again (See Magical dancing windows) I had a couple of useful replies (thanks again guys) but my query / concern remains, did the re-set permanently fix the problem?

Thanks for your responses and the link to a previous thread. Apart from the slight pressure on the window trick referred to by Speedsport, it seems I had followed the recommended method for the re-set. However the query still stands, did those who had this problem have a repeat of the mystery openings after the re-set? Since it seems the other thread is currently also 'live' I'll post my request on there as well (Apologies to the webmaster if this is not correct protocol)

Despite the New Zealand Department of Agriculture's best bio-hazard reduction strategies the self opening window gremlins seem to have made it to our shores. (The Hobbits were already here of course !) A couple of weeks ago the rear passenger window decided to open half way when the car (2015 Monte Carlo 170 hp TDi) was locked and parked in the rain. I subsequently carried out a simple 'in the rain' and 'in the garage' check and yes it was definitely the rain causing the problem. Consequently I switched off the rain sensing function via the MFD. I had no further issues until a few days ago when I found that the same window had decided overnight to open halfway whilst parked in the garage. I carried out the window re-set procedure and all seems to be working fine again although I did notice that the door self locking function - when your speed has gone above 15 kph(?) - had re-activated itself. Then this weekend the key decided to re-set itself so that it only opens the driver's door (I was using the same key on all occasions) The second key still has the open all door setting retained. I know that I can re-set the first key but before I do a couple of queries: (a) Has anybody been through the window re-set and noticed the same thing about the re-activation of the door self-locking and / or the resetting of the key? (b) More importantly, for those who have had similar problems with magically opening windows has the window re-set permanently solved the problem? Its certainly very worrying from a security point of view - let alone a potentially drowned interior - that this issue appears to have occurred with no apparent cause.

Thanks Muddyboots.. I'll have a go with erWin. Could be a useful general exercise anyway. Has anybody else tried erWin (for any topic that is)? David. Thanks for your pm and the info. I've found I can't pm a reply directly as I haven't been using the site long enough. However I'll post how I get on.

As many forum members will know, the Off Road function, among other things, increases the effect of the electronic diff lock (i.e. making it a bit more like a true diff lock.) by activating a more aggressive action of the ABS. This could make the difference in some muddy or snowy conditions. Unfortunately the 170 TDi Yeti was imported into New Zealand as the Monte Carlo version without the Off Road function and equally unfortunately Skoda say that the "Off Road" function cannot be retro-fitted. However a post on a VW site shows how to retrofit the off road function for a Tiguan. (The VW 4-Motion system fitted to the Tiguan is similar to, if not the same as the Skoda Off Road function) - http://www.mytiguan.com/index.php?/t...n-button-how2/ I'd be interested to know if anybody has achieved the same with a Yeti and if so how? I posted last month on the "other' Yeti forum but didn't receive any positive responses. Subsequently I have sourced an "Off Road" switch from Skoda and have found out how to fit it by removing one of the existing blanks. It looks like quite an easy job although getting the wiring through the firewall to the engine bay and ECU may be a bit more difficult. Importantly I have found that the combined ABS hydraulic unit and its associated electronic controller - which is the key part for the Off Road EDL - are the same part number for my vehicle both with and without the Off Road function. Although I have a 2015 model I suspect that possibly its the same unit across the range (manufactured that year?) So what I still need is: (a) The wiring pin configurations from the switch to the ECU and ( The code for the Off Road function in the ABS module to input into the VCDS Does anybody have the switch and ECU pin configurations and / or the coding for the ABS with the Off Road function activated? (i.e.The pin config and / or a VCDS printout from a F/L Yeti with a factory fitted Off Road switch but preferably a 2015 or 2016 model.) Any info is likely to be helpful. (e.g. the wiring pin config just for the switch) and gratefully received. As an alternative if somebody could pm me the VIN for preferably a TDi 2015, Yeti (or possibly any 2015 ) with the factory fitted Off Road function I could probably then find the relevant code through the VCDS to enter onto my vehicle. As I said, any help gratefully received.