Zundap

Hi, had slow puncture on car and after taking wheel off found we had a cracked wheel. Bloody potholes! Don't suppose anyone has a spare Thermisto 18" Alloy they would be happy to sell? Thanks

Fitted new turbo actuator. Just measured position of nut on threaded rod of actuator as no access to VCDS. Car running just fine with no fault codes. Pleased I didn't have to change complete turbo assy.

Sorry meant to say it's a 2010 2.0 tdi 170hp CBBB engine. I have P0299 fault code....turbo underboost. Actuator is not holding any vaccumn on test

I'm about to replace the vaccumn operated actuator that sits on top of the turbo. My plan was to set the threaded rod nut at the same position as the one on the old actuator. The correct way, as per the manual, is to adjust it's position using VCDS to achieve set voltages. Now I don't have VCDS... anyone done this before by matching the position of old actuator and was it OK? Cheers

Thanks for your reply, very helpful and interesting. I would agree your engine very similar to mine. Was thinking that you would introduce some air into the system but there would be minimal fuel loss especially if you clamped the flexi pipes. I assume that any air introduced into the system escapes out via the injectors when turning over the engine on start up?

So 2010 2.0 TDI 170 Superb engine CBBB. Have code 2015, swirl flap motor fault, have read all about it, and know that my plastic intake manifold has to come off to fit modification bracket. To remove manifold I need to disconnect and move fuel rail/fuel injector pipes to gain access to a couple of the manifold bolts. My question is on reconnecting fuel pipes will I need to prime diesel system to remove air using VCDS? Is this necessary? I don't have this software so is there an alternative method other than VCDS? Anyone in Edinburgh area who has access to software by any chance? Anyone done an intake removal before on this type of engine and could offer any advice it would be much appreciated. Cheers

This is the manifold I have fitted, the motor fits behind the black plastic lug on the RH side of the manifold

Hi, yes I've seen that video but my manifold is all black plastic. The 3 mounting bolts face rearwards and look like that even when undone the motor will not be able to be removed. If anyone has done this or removed the manifold with motor attached that would be really helpful. Cheers

Just an update to my question..... With the P2015 code I have car still seems to drive the same. Will it have reduced performance or fuel economy with this fault, does the ecu go into any form of limp mode automatically with engine lamp on? Just not sure when I can get this fixed and car needed daily etc Thanks

I have engine light on 2010 Superb 170tdi. Fault code is 2015. Cleared code but after a week its returned. I've read up about it and know what the code means and that you can buy a bracket to install on motor actuating arm to fix it. Watched a video of a guy doing this and he removed 3 bolts at front to remove motor....easy. My car is different, possibly due to plastic intake, I do not have 3 bolts a front. Do I need to remove manifold and motor will come off attached to it? How do I remove manifold and do I need gaskets on refitting? Cheers

Hi, my kids had been playing around my car and managed to prise off the headlight washer chrome cover 🙄 How do I refit it? I've read that I can pull the stalk forwards to be able to get to the bracket to be able to locate the holes in the cover onto the pegs......is this the case? If I need to replace the washer stalk is it possible without removing headlight/bumper etc? Cheers

Great Post thanks guys Managed to sort mine, had been broken eversince I've had the car....not anymore!

Same problem happened to my superb. Found 2 broken wires in rubber boot in drivers door hinge. Extra wires soldered in, bit fiddly but all sorted.

Just a quick update Got DMF and Clutch done, LUK parts for £600. Found out my neighbour worked in garage and was happy to do it in his spare time. No more rattles and nice light smooth clutch. Hopefully that'll be me for a while after just the other month shelling out for 2 new rear calipers, discs, pads and 1 hub as garage managed to bugger Abs speed sensor!

Just tried car again, it's cold, not driven all day. At tickover, from 800-1000 rpm definate rattle from engine but with clutch pressed noise stops.

Same day clutches are quoting 750 for dmf, clutch and slave cylinder supplied and fitted

Thanks for the info Will try same day clutches Cheers

Hi all, I have a 2010 170bhp diesel Superb, done 150k. Vibrating on tickover with a rattling sound coming from gearbox side. Noise tends to go away with clutch depressed. Car seems to drive OK still just really rumbly at tickover. Two garages had a very quick listen and both suggested DMF. Any fool proof way of telling if it's DMF before I bite the bullet? Likely cost of doing DMF and Clutch? Cheers

Hey that's a coincidence. I had exactly the same symptoms a year ago and the fault was a chafed wire behind the battery box. Seems like an area worth taking a look at.

Hi, just replaced another pair of half worn tyres on my 2010 Superb. The inner edges were bald compared to the middle and outer portion. Is it possible to adjust the camber/toe on these cars for the rear wheels. Have also had to replace fronts with same issue. Now looking to get some proper alignment done if any one can recommend someone in the Edinburgh area? Cheers

Well tried a new wiper motor, no fix! Got a refund so no probs there. Took it to a auto electrician who said he found a damaged wire behind battery box going through bulkhead. Said it was “LIN” bus wire. There was evidence of newly applied insulating tape in the area suggested so can only assume he was being truthful. So coincidence after all.....perhaps!

What I keep thinking is I only did a couple of miles after car had been serviced in dry weather. Then wipers don’t work. Maybe just coincidence? Not a main dealer just local garage. Is there anything he may have “reset” as part of the service which could have caused this?

Checked bonnet switch and all seems good

Thanks for the info I can move the wipers fairly easily by hand and can see the linkage moving. Will someone who uses Vag Com diagnostic readers understand and be able to interpret fault codes?