chimaera

Get your injectors checked out. If they're failing soot production will go way up.

Temperature gauge is not a useful indication here: it will read 90 *C at any actual temperature between 75 and 105 *C - it's basically a fancy indicator light. Apparently VAG's logic is that people get nervous when they see the temperature needle moving around.

Suspension is complicated, even on a simple layout like the McPherson strut used on the front of these cars. Adjusting one element will have an impact on other measurements even if they're not touched. It can take a few goes around each adjustment to get everything sorted just right. Camber is not fixed on any car, it varies as the wheel pivots on the kingpin axis, so adjusting toe is going to change the camber since it'll result in the wheel pivoting on the kingpin axis. As an aside, while camber cannot be individually adjusted on each side on these cars, it can be centered. This involves loosening the subframe bolts and sliding the subframe left or right until the camber is equal on both sides. I've found that not many alignment shops will be interested in doing this job.

Unlikely. Even if the wiring pinouts matched up exactly (and there's no guarantee of that), the Superb is much longer and the wiring from an Octavia is unlikely to reach far enough down the length of a Superb for it to work. The wiring runs from the fuse panel on the driver's side of the dash all the way to the rear of the boot.

Have all 4 wheels been balanced? I'd also take a closer look at the drive shafts.

We're going through a rather warm spell here right now and when I got home from work this evening I noticed my oil temperature up at 100 *C (the last few km of my commute is suburban driving at around 50-60 km/h). I also noticed that the fans weren't running, which I might have expected with the oil up at that sort of temperature. I plugged in VCDS and checked some sensor values: Coolant temperature was at 96 *C Coolant temperature actual at the radiator outlet was at 88 *C Coolant temperature specified at the radiator outlet was at 80 *C Cooling Fan 1 duty cycle was at 10 % Oil temperature at this point was down to 96 *C I ran output tests on the fans: it cycled to 86 % duty cycle for a few seconds and I could hear them kick on, then off again when it dropped back to 10 %. All fuses and relays are fine. Given the difference between the setpoint and actual temperatures on the radiator outlet I would have expected the fans to be running. Am I overthinking this or should I be worried? Car is a 2012 Combi with CFGB engine and DSG. DSG thermostat just replaced.

If you run Skoda OEM wheels on it there should be no issue. I wrote up a summary of wheel information here: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/445067-superb-2-wheel-and-tyre-information/

Weight range 6 is too soft for the combi, end of story. Pretty much everyone here who has had issues with sagging and broken springs is on weight range 6. Weight range 10 is a good compromise for OP if they're worried about comfort. And no, 10 is not two up, it's 5 up from WR 5. Spring diameter is not the only thing that determines spring stiffness and load bearing capacity.

The thread I linked above includes the ride height spec, and how to check it. Skoda fitted very weak rear springs and shocks from the factory on most cars, and they pretty much always sag at the rear. I'd suggest going to at least weight range 10 if you're replacing everything anyway.

Ok, that's White, Orange, Orange, Orange, Brown which indicates weight range 5. No wonder it broke. I'd suggest going to weight range 8 or 9 at least.

Is it a hatch or combi? Do you know what weight range is fitted (look on the build label for a code starting with 0Y)? Have you had problems with the rear sagging? (Most owners do) Is it original or facelift? Once we know this information we can drill down to some specific recommendations quite quickly.

Almost certainly worth doing dampers as well. Have a read here too: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/479907-rear-suspension-information/

I put together a bunch of data on the various stock setups on the rear in this thread, it might help you a bit. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/479907-rear-suspension-information/

Spec is 120 Nm, dry threads. Greasing them will result in overtightened bolts. If they're difficult to tighten clean the bolts and the holes in the hub.

There's a solenoid inside the mechanism that locks it once it's shut.