chimaera

That's an unusually short time for it to fail. Was the installation done correctly ? You do not want a single mass flywheel. The engine was designed specifically to use a DMF and components have been lightened as a result. A snapped crankshaft is not something you want to deal with.

Pretty immediate if it's going to happen. I avoided all this hassle on mine by using Skoda's wiring kit. Everything plugs in neatly, and you get some nice bonus features: ESP towing mode (can detect and correct sway), engine/transmission knows you're towing and can modify its operation accordingly, alarm will go off if the trailer is unplugged while the car is locked, you'll get bulb out warnings for your trailer too.

Our 2012 does, so I'd be surprised if a 2013 didn't. It's easy to check anyway, just pull up the seat base and see if the fittings are there.

The tail lights are powered/controlled from the BCM. If you get this wrong you could fry the BCM (you wouldn't be the first). A new one of those is expensive. The subscription to erWin is a tiny fraction of the cost of a BCM. You get the factory wiring diagrams immediately (pdf download) and no more confusion or guessing. I can't help you because the diagrams I have are for my pre-facelift 2012 and may not be the same as the 2014 you have. (Even year to year there can be minor changes)

It'll cost you less than a tenner to go on erWin for an hour and grab the Skoda wiring diagrams.

You can buy the service manuals (which include the wiring diagrams) from Skoda at https://erwin.skoda-auto.cz/erwin/showHome.do

Feed for the relay should come from a fused power supply from the fuse panel. Connection to the lights should only be for switching purposes. Any large current draw on a bulb connection could blow fuses or damage the BCM.

You probably won't want to hear this, but single mass flywheel is a really bad idea. These engines were designed specifically around the DMF and the crankshaft is lightened since it doesn't have to withstand high shock and vibration loads. They're not strong enough to last long term with a SMF.

Do you have a genuine RossTech VCDS interface? The long coding helper there can help you restore the coding. Loss of coding like this is a common problem with cheap knock-offs of VCDS.

You need some fairly specialised hardware and software to reflash the cluster firmware to match the car it's going into. It's not a simple matter of changing coding. Have you verified that the replacement headlights are sending the correct signal to the cluster, on the correct pin? There's a possibility that the wiring pinouts and clusters are different between the projector and reflector headlamps and this could be why your second cluster is working. You could also try applying 12 V to the pin for the indicator lamp on the original cluster and see if it lights up.

Right, definitely something up with the ABS. Time to get a diagnostic scan done on the control module to see what's going on.

What is the full size of each tyre fitted? Are all 4 the same section, profile and rim diameter? Are the 4 wheels all the same diameter and width? If everything is not exactly the same on each corner, then you could run into issues with these systems because the wheels will not all be running at the same speed. Another thing that can cause what you are describing is a flat or disconnected battery. The ABS module in particular gets quite upset when this happens. To reset it, with the engine running, turn the steering wheel fully left then fully right before returning to the centre. This resets the steering angle sensor and makes the controller happy again. I'd suggest trying this before you go any further, it's quick to do and you'll know straight away if it has worked. A fault scan of the ABS module would also be worth doing, just to see what it thinks is going on. It may help guide further fault finding.

What wheels & tyres did you fit? Are they all the same rolling radius?

My mechanic just charged me €363 in labour to do the job, plus the cost of the parts. It's about 4 hours work to do the whole lot. I had a mechanic do it for me because I didn't have the time or energy to tackle it myself. The procedure is in the service manual which you can purchase from Skoda at https://erwin.skoda-auto.cz/erwin/showHome.do

No, it is done without removing the engine. You do the mounts one at a time and make sure the engine is supported when you are removing the mount.