TheBinarySheep

I'm not going to worry about the logs for now. I cleaned my exhaust tips the other day, and within 50 mile they're absolutely black again. There's obviously still oil being pulled in through the intake from when the turbo went, so the logs are probably not accurate anyway.

I'm more than happy with a stage 1, but I want to make sure it's a reliable stage 1. If I have to replace the downpipe, then I may get a stage 1.5 done, but I don't want to purposefully going in that direction. I've looked at my graphs some more. I read somewhere that said timing should gradually increase with revs, but I notice on my graph that timing steadily increases from -0.5 to 7, but then dips as low as 4.5 and jumps back up to 7.5 again. This corresponds to a change in the AFR as well. At 5000 rpm the timing is 7.0 and AFR 12.02. As the AFR gradually increases the timing reduces. At the lowest point, AFR is 12.25 and timing down to 4.5. I'm assuming that it's the change in the AFR that causes the drop in timing, but I won't why the change in AFR? I do also wonder if the car is still pulling bits of oil from the intercooler and that's what is causing some of the timing to be retarded. I'm not going to speak with the tuner about it all just yet, as I have a feeling he'll say it's oil in the intake pipes still making it's way through the engine, which is may well be.

He said there's a chunk missing from the cat itself, but he didn't think it would negatively impact air flow.

The tuner did mention that my cat was damaged by the turbo. I wonder, if the cat wasn't flow as much air as it used to, would that have any impact on the timing?

Again, thanks. There are no other engine mods on the car. What I also find interesting is that when it only ran 343 on the dyno I thought it was a conservative map, but if the timing is aggressive then why isn't the car putting out more power. Do these engines have different maps for different fuel types? I wonder if the fact the car has been tuned for 95 ron but is now running 99 ron has anything to do with it? I know some ECU's have different maps for different fuel types.

280

Thanks. I've done one final log, this time I managed to get it without ODBEleven disconnecting. https://datazap.me/u/shaunsheppard/log-1607938451?log=0&data=1-5-6 This link includes data for; engine speed ignition timing adjustment cylinder 1 timing angle retardation cylinder 1 timing angle retardation cylinder 2 timing angle retardation cylinder 3 timing angle retardation cylinder 4 intake air temperature current of oxygen sensor bank 1 exhaust gas temperature before catalytic converter exhaust temperature 1 bank 1 charge air pressure specific value charge air pressure actual value I'm going to post this on an ECU tuning forum as well just to get some additional opinions.

I tried getting more data today, but I kept losing the bluetooth connection to ODB11 so I get disconnecting. It's such a pain having to setup the log params every time, you'd think you could just reload from a previously saved chart. Anyway. I've managed to log timing and AFR, but I forgot to add the RPM so I'm not sure how helpful this is. I have no idea what timing values are good or bad. https://datazap.me/u/shaunsheppard/log-1607871497?log=0&data=1-2-3-4-5-6

Another remap is going to cost £500-700. Spending a little bit of time logging and analysing the current map, while a bit of a pain initially, will save me money if I can't find anything particularly wrong with the map itself. There's a tuner that I've used in the past who does live remaps, he's highly regarded but doesn't tune VAG stuff. I dropped him an email last week asking if he'd be able to look at the map for me, or recommend someone else who could do it. He's given me the name of a specialist I can use who is very good and knows his stuff when it comes to VAG. It just so happens that it's the same specialist that I've used for the remap and the turbo. So far I've spoke to 4 tuners in the region, and only one of them (a direct competitor who is more expensive) has come back with any negative comments. I really do think I was just unlucky, but rather than just leave it at that, I'm just trying to cover all based and make sure the map isn't doing anything it shouldn't be.

I'll log the missing data tomorrow. Is there a way to log AFR? I don't know if it matters, but the car is mapped for 95 ron, and I'm currently running shell v-power. I don't know if that would cause the ECU to retard timing? At the minute I'm trying to get as much information about the car/ecu/map as possible so that in the new I can query the tuner if I need to and ask him to make necessary adjustments if they're needed.

Here's my chart from the morning, 4th gear. Here's a link to the data as well which included timing for all four cylinders and air intake temperature too. https://datazap.me/u/shaunsheppard/log-1607769415?log=0&data=6-7-8&zoom=0-23

Thanks for that, really helpful. At some point today I'll do a log and grab the same values you're showing in your chart, and that will give us something to compare.

Most stage 1 tunes on these engines are 1.6 bar, which is what mine was mapped to. It just looks like my turbo couldn't handle it and decided to eat itself. 1.4 bar is stock boost pressure I think. My understanding is; Stock = 1.4 bar Stage 1 = 1.6 bar Stage 2 = 1.8 bar Stage 3 = 2.0 bar + Although actual boost can vary, some stage 2 maps only use 1.7 bar of boost and still achieve just under 400bhp. The turbo I have now can handle up to a mild stage 3 tune and around 420bhp, but I'm not going anywhere near that figure.

I did another data log, this time in third gear. Boost levels look much better. The ECU requests 2.6 bar and gets a max of 2.669 bar before the ECU opens the wastegate.

As the title says really. I've used ODB Eleven to log the requested vs actual boost levels, and most of the time I'm seeing boost pressures of more than what is being requested. Just wondering if this is normal? For example, the most boost the ECU asks for is 2.6 bar, which is about 1.6 above atmospheric pressure, but it's actually detecting 2.777 bar (1.7) of boost, that's almost 1.8 bar! I've attached the CSV file with all the data in it. Can anyone that knows what they're talking about have a look for me? OBDeleven chart.csv

I've been for a drive this morning, getting the oil/water up to temperature and gradually starting to ask more of the car without giving it full beans. So far everything seems fine, oil and water temps held ok, power delivery seems smooth, no noises, no hiccups or flat spots. One negative, my exhaust tips are no longer sparkling, they're black and covered in oil.

Finally have the car back. I've been told to take it easy for a while. They've tried to get as much oil out of the intake as possible but there's a chance that there's still some in the intercooler so I need to go easy and not force it all through the engine in one go. The catalytic converter sustained some damage, but they don't believe it's going to impact flow so have left it on the car. The map is still on the car, and I'm going back to get the car on the rolling road in the new year just to check performance is still good and compare the new turbo to the old one. If it needs any tweaks they'll sort it out then. Total cost, £1150. While it's a lot of money, I'm over the money it wasn't something more serious.

The map is still on the car. At the minute, I don't know if they've tweaked the map. I don't know if a tweak it required because the new turbo is based on the OEM IS38 anyway and is a bolt on replacement. They've still go the car, but I'll try and find out more when I collect it. Hopefully later today.

Spoke with the specialist. Car seems fine, they're keeping the car overnight so they can do a cold start in the morning and check for oil leaks etc before they hand it back.

Car was penciled in to have the new turbo installed tomorrow, but I've just seen a mechanic driving my car around an industrial estate. I don't know any more info than that, but I'm more hopefully of some good news later today.

The tuner did tell me that the turbo's on these can be a weak point, but that was after the tune had been applied and when I was picking the car up. I get that tuners are competing with each other, and most customers are choosing their tuner based on the headline power figures. I looked at using one of those Bluefin devices to map the car, but I didn't because their power output was too low. However, if I'd chosen Bluefin maybe the turbo wouldn't have gone. If the tuner had told me before hand that the turbo was weak, then I'd have gone and asked another tuner who would have told me that the turbos are fine, and I'd have got them to remap the car and probably still been in the same situation. There's no consistency across tuners.

My understanding is that the only part used from my turbo is the exhaust side of the turbo housing, actuator etc. The compressor/core and inlet housing are all supplied.

I think it's the supercore they've ordered.

I went for the Littco L380X, it seemed daft to got OEM when the Littco is half the price.

Another small update. From initial checks, the engine seems fine. There is a little bit of oil left in the engine which is good, but there's still the chance of bearing damage if the engine has been starved of oil/pressure. They won't know until the new turbo has been installed and the oil system sealed as that's when they can start to turn the engine over. New turbo has been ordered, waiting for it to come in before booking a technician to fit it, which is looking at the early part of next week.