TheBinarySheep

Yeh. That was to remove the bottom end and replace the bearings and put it all back together. I've spent the last few days online looking for what car I'm going to replace the Superb with, but then I can't help think I might as well keep it once it's fixed. It'll still be cheaper to keep the car and change the engine at a later date if it needs it than it will be to change car. But, for the last few days I've had my heart set on a 3.0 V6 with associated exhaust note.

Another brief update. Crank is out and is fine. Garage have ordered new seals and bearing and may start rebuilding tomorrow.

Update: sump has been pulled off and there's a couple of lumps of metal, so they're going to have to remove the gearbox and the crank. I got an estimated cost of around £1,300 to replace all the bottom end bearings. They're going to crack on with it again tomorrow and I'll probably get an update later this week.

That's it, you never know, it could just be a lack of oil pressure and the noise it coming from the timing chain tensioner. I did some research over the weekend, and if it's the crankshaft shells, then it really doesn't look like a big job and it's something that can easily be done with the car on a ramp, so costs shouldn't be too excessive. Like I say though, my biggest concern is what problems might come at a later date through further wear. I've been racking my brains all weekend thinking of an alternative car if I do need to get rid. I'm 40 so don't want anything to chavvy, have two kids so could do with something with space, but it needs to be quick, handle well and make some noise. Then it's do you stick with something big and sensible like a Volvo V60 T5, or get something like a Renault Megane 280, both of which have less space, but have the fun factor that the Superb lacked. I'm hoping to get some news today, so fingers crossed I'll know more and have a better idea where we're heading.

The car was initially registered to Skoda HQ in Milton Keynes (or so I was told), and then it had another owner for a year, and then me. At present, it's suspected that any bearing damage has been caused by oil starvation from when the turbo went. Like you say, it's difficult to find a car with so much space, power, spect and 4x4 for this budget.

Dropped the car off yesterday. They said they'd pull the bottom of the engine off and see what's going on. They've said something along the lines of hopefully it's only a bearing shell and they can replace it. If there's damage to the crank then it's gearbox out, crank out, new crank and shells as they don't believe in re-grinding. I'm waiting to see how much it's all going to cost and then I'll make a decision whether to get the car fixed, sell it and move on. If they replace a worn bearing, then I'll always be worried if one of the others are going to start to show signs of wear at a later date. The problem is, I like the car, and if I sell it, I'm struggling to think of anything as good for the same price. The closest I can come up with a Volvo V60 T5. I could buy another Superb, but I don't really like to buy the same thing twice. I'm keeping my eyes open for quick estate cars that are not too far off £20k just incase. Either way, I've been banned from modifying any more cars.

I'm experiencing the same, the volume via bluetooth is a fair bit louder than Apple Carplay. I've tried increasing the volume on the phone, but it's already at max. I find the same happens with my wife's Mini as well.

Specialist couldn't find any errors logged on the car using ODIS, but my ODB11 is seeing them. In the meantime, the engine has developed a knocking noise. It's booked in for Friday but I've been advised not to drive the car in the meantime. So it's looking like there maybe some engine damage. The noise I'm hearing is similar to what bottom end bearings sound like when they're on their way out.

Car is booked in for Monday, so we'll see. If it's not a recalibration issue then it might need a new wastegate, but it looks like Mahle do one for £150, so not the end of the world.

I'm hoping it's just that the waste gate needs recalibration. I've read that the locknut can come loose sometimes, which would make sense given the turbo has just been changed.

I'm not sure if it's related, but tonight the EPC light has come on and the car has logged an error with Boost Module A, whatever that is. I guess I'll be getting the car booked back into the garage to get that looked at.

Mine arrived today. Only used it a little, but setup was easy and seems to work really well.

It's annoying because I was told if I wanted 400hp then I needed an intake, intercooler and downpipe. It's not fair if the 272 can make better power with less add-ons!

1.8 bar of boost.... GULP!!! How are they able to get this power form the 272 without too many supporting mods, but not from the 280? or can they?

Perfect thanks, just ordered one.

As the title says, what size rear anti-roll bar have people been fitting? I see there are options for 22/24mm? Does anyone know what size the OEM roll bar is?

I understand that up until recently, CarPlay in the Superb has to be wired via USB and that only newer models get wireless Apple CarPlay. I'm just wondering what options are available to add wireless CarPlay to a superb that only supports wired CarPlay? I've seen options such as this on Amazon but at £169 it's not cheap https://www.amazon.co.uk/Carlinkit-Activator-Chevrolet-2016-2019-2016-2020-Factory-CarPlay-Cas/dp/B085DBKC21/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=skoda+apple+carplay+wireless&qid=1610120224&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyRDQ4WFNMTFdYQUlLJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwOTkyMzYyM08xRzlMRlZOQktETyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNDcyODM2MlVEWDRVTTAxWFVCOCZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU= My wife has Wireless CarPlay in her Mini Cooper, and it's fantastic as you can just leave your phone in your pocket. Are there cheaper options other than what I've posted above?

yes, mine is the black one with standard sportline springs and koni shocks. ive not tried the Bilstein shocks so I can't compare. the Koni shocks are designed to work with OEM springs, so she should work with your standard springs. Fitting sportline springs will lower your car slightly. I'm sure you will be able to get sportline springs from a Skoda dealer.

Yes they work with sportline springs. No they don't increase the ride height. they are definitely not more bouncy than OEM. the problem with the superb is that the OEM shocks are under damped, so they don't have great control over the rebound of the shocks. Konis will fix that. They are not a full on sport suspension, but are a massive improvement. have you ever mixed cornflower in water? When you do, you end up with a paste that's like water when you stir it slowly, but if you try to stir quickly the liquid turns solid. That's what the Koni shocks are like. If you compress the shocks slowly then it's like the OEM shocks, but if you try to compress the shocks quickly then they firm up. They get rid of any bounce, massively improve handling without compromising ride quality. For me, this is how the car should have left the factory. there's a picture of my car with Konis in the link, second post.

The issue for me is, that while cruising around, the revs are settles at around 1200-1300 rpm, but that low down I have little response to pedal input unless I floor it and force the car to drop a gear. When I learnt to drive 20 year ago, I was taught to keep the engine revs in a place where you leave yourself some room to be able to accelerate out of a problem if you needed to. While cruising around at 40-45mph at 1300rpm might be good for fuel economy, it's not great for feel and control. I'll wait for a response from the tuner, hopefully he can map it out or change normal mode. The problem with this car is, there's no half way house, you've got normal mode which shifts up far too soon, and then sport mode which just isn't suitable for daily driving. The alternative is manual mode, but then what's the point of getting a DSG if you're going to spend most of the time in manual.

in sport or manual the car feels great. even just driving around in normal mode the car feels lovely, there's just no power when you apply a small amount of throttle in normal mode.

My understanding is that the vanes on the turbo are clipped to increase airflow at the top end, but reduce it very slightly lower down in the Rev range. It's based on the OEM turbo, so there's isn't a huge difference, but it's enough for me to notice it. On a fourth gear run I'm getting 0.5 bar of boost at 2900rpm and about 1 bar at 3700rpm I can only imagine how much worse it is for you.

I've already has the DSG mapped, but it focused on sport mode, launch control and clamping pressure I think. I didn't touch the shift points in normal drive mode.

Since getting the car back from getting a new Littco L380X turbo, in drive, the car feels different to how it used to. It's like the gearbox is chasing the highest gear possible as quickly as possible. For example, during normal driving the car has me in 4th gear at 25mph and it seems to be changing up at around 2000rpm. I think the car probably did this before, but I wonder if the new turbo starts to spool slightly later, so in drive the car is constantly outside of the turbo's power band which makes it feel unresponsive. I've asked the tuner if he can change drive mode to hold onto the gears until maybe 2500 or 3000rpm, and I'm waiting for a response. I just thought I'd ask, does everyones else's 280 change up at 2000rpm as well?

ah right, that sounds about right. Does the ECU have two maps, one for each fuel, or does the ECU just look at the base timing figure and increment that by X amount depending on the fuel quality? Either way, I guess I need to get the car back on the dyno at some point and have it optimised for 98/99 ron.