Saints92

I've only to pay for the one I've fitted, thankfully, as I work in the trade so got it through my work, no labour costs either. Would've been a nightmare otherwise.

Yeah going to go once the lockdowns ended and I can travel across the country. I had it mapped before changing the turbo so worried something will now be off, but only travelling through town these days anyway. Cheers.

Just to end this. Put new is20 turbo on, with genuine actuator on it, and actuator worked constantly and nobody could code it in. Fit brand new is38 turbo on with genuine actuator on it, and it's working perfectly. I removed an is20 from the car. Can't explain what happened, or why it's now fixed, but there we go. Presumably car just wants more power so forced me to fit a bigger turbo.

Got an auto electrician out, and he can't find a problem with it at all, but it still fails adaptions. He's now sayings its a problem with my ECU and I'll need to go to Skoda garage to sort it. Madness. Car is costing me a fortune at this stage.

Voltage comes up at 3.802v when idling, which I'm told is within parameters and should allow it to adapt. It just refuses to do so, and comes up saying the wastegate is stuck. Can move the wastegate free with my hand. Trying a brand new battery in the morning, if not I'll just have to spend money on an Auto Electrician to source the problem for me.

Any idea how I can check this? Came from a turbo company in Glasgow I've used regularly through the years without issues. They've sent me two turbos and both do the exact same. Switch ignition on, and actuator starts working back and forwards a small bit. Reading 65% roughly. Its now stopping after a while and I'm getting a fault code saying its stuck. Can move it fully either way with my hand. Got VCDS and it doesn't allow me to do a basic setting for the actuator.

Having a nightmare. Fit a new aftermarket turbo, the actuator is constantly running trying to move and reads as stuck at 65%. Won't adapt. Can move it free with your hand. Get a genuine turbo, plug it in, and it does the exact same. Alternator has now randomly stopped working aswell. New batter fitted. Same issues with both. Only fault code is to tell me the actuator is stuck at 65%, on two brand new turbos. Zero idea where I go from here.

For anyone interested, my wastegate was apparently completely shot and on the verge of disintegrating. Just getting a new turbo.

If anyone has any other suggestions, thinks the turbo fin looks fine, then ill be delighted 😂 Siren noise only appears when starting to boost.

First topic I could fine, but add me to the small list of Mk3 Octavia owners needing a turbo replacement. 63 VRS petrol with 80k miles, started howling like a siren one day. Huge play in the shaft and i think it looks like a damaged fin from the photo I got. Almost £1000 for a new turbo from a place in Glasgow, but they don't keep them in stock, so going to send mines away and hope it can be sorted.

Through my work we've had 4, maybe 5, blocked heater matrixes due to the silicone bag exploding. You have to replace the matrix, header tank, and flush the whole system multiple times to resolve it. Never come across a rusty matrix caused by not having the silicone bag, and honestly I'd be using a header tank without it if I bought a car with one. Thats a really small sample size I've got though.

Why is an independent more like to do it wrong than a dealer?

Just beware that the early mk3 VRS' are lower spec. I've one of the first batch, while a customer at my work has one 2 years younger, and despite both being VRS' his has far more I presume came as standard.

And "well north of 300bhp" in a FWD car is a bit pointless.

Cheers. I'll try and get in touch with the mapper every day from now until Monday, I'm just wanting to confirm with him it's the map causing the issue as he should really know exactly where to look for the issue, and then make plans to go to Skoda to see if they can revert it back. Using my wife's car just to prevent any potential damage so can wait until I can get in touch with him if needs be.

Yeah definitely feels like the best next step. Seems like the place that mapped it is shut, just get a recorded message about coronavirus when I phone up. Has anyone got any experience with getting a main dealer to revert it back to the stock map? Can imagine some places being funny about doing it but have zero experience of it at all.

Purely from memory around 66k miles, and I'm now about 10k on top of that.

I'd just got my hopes up it was fine aswell 😅 Tried our camera down the hole but its just a bit too big to fit completely down, the brief view I got with the light on the end of it made it looks fairly damage less down there, and my piston doesnt have anything burnt into/a hole forming, I've potentially been tricked by a simple reflection.

Only ever run the car on Tesco Momentum, even before the remap. And he is incredibly well known around here and has been for decades. I got first hand experience off a couple of friends before I went to him and they were all complimentary of what hes done on their cars. Only issue is he might be closed just now as I cant get a hold of him. Take it those compression figures are fine?

Hopefully those compression figures are fine, the tester is a bit old and might have a small leak. My boss reckons the figures are fine, and my issue is overfuelling. Suggests I go back to the company that mapped it and either get the map removed, or eased right off, to see if that affects it.

@varaderoguy @xman Checked compression in cylinder 1 and 4. 2 and 3 coils are stuck in and cant remove them without breaking so waiting on new ones coming before doing that. Cylinder 1 - ~150 psi Cylinder 4 - ~155 psi

Plugs are NGK ones, ordered via the reg number from the local factors. I did wonder about them but I fitted them all at the same time, and only number 1 cylinder is showing any issue at all, other 3 looked perfectly fine which led me away from blaming them. I wouldnt feel right selling it on tbh, not for how much someone would be paying for it. I've got a camera at work that I can stick down to have a look, just be a case of getting time to do it when I'm there. I had the same issue last year with the burnt out plug, but put it down to not changing the plugs before the remap. New plugs went in and everything started running sweet so thought I'd sussed it until now. If there has been a deeper issue this whole time then I suspect it's already too late. The plugs weren't out for the map, which is daft thinking back. It ran for around 6 months after the map before I got the issue first, and that came after about 6 months of driving it without issue before the map. I replaced all four almost exactly a year ago, 3 of them are still tight while number 1 has come loose. So it goes. Bought car - Feb 18 Remap - Sep 18 First burnt out spark plug - May 19 Second burnt out, and now slack, spark plug - May 20. In total I've done around 10k miles. The whole time I've suffered from excessive oil consumption compared to what youd expect, having to top up the dipstick every 3 months roughly. I fitted the plugs again last night, and have down 8 miles and theres no sign of any fault. Which baffles me.

Couldnt find anything in the cylinder last year, this year when I shine a torch down you see a shiny spot on top of the piston exactly below where the spark plug sits. Cant see any debris but potentially been punched into the piston now. Just find it curious the car runs perfectly between spark plugs getting burnt out, trying to figure out what's happening first. If the spark plug burning out is causing unburnt fuel to wash the bore and lift oil (if that's possible), or if the oil getting on to the spark plug is burning out the spark plug.

Wondering if the oil getting onto the spark plug is causing the plug to burn out, causing the fault? Is there a common fix for oil around a spark plug on these engines?

Anyone got any ideas for this? Only ever cylinder 1, completely burns out a spark plug every ~6000 miles. Other 3 cylinders are perfect. Oil on the coil, and very slightly pooling around the spark plug. Spark plug fitted a year ago unwound from the head without the use of a ratchet, despite being torqued in to the correct spec. Cylinder 1 piston with oil residue on the top, and shiny point directly below spark plug. Oil use is around 1ltr every 3/4 months;2/3k miles. Going to try and get a compression test done tomorrow, but after a new spark plug is fitted, its trouble free motoring for ~6k miles until a misfire starts and plug starts burning out. Swapped injectors and fault doesnt move, and also swapped coils and the fault doesnt move. NGK plugs fitted, ordered off the reg numbers. Car was remapped and driven for a year before issue started. Mapper doesnt understand why only Cylinder 1 would have issues if map was too aggressive but is willing to put it back to stock. Absolutely horrible feeling it will be an engine job, one way or another, not what's needed financially.