wexti

Seems that way alright, another issue I'm finding is if I'm driving all day the Bluetooth module will shut down and disappear. I'm thinking it could be overheating or something

👍 the car will ring for me. @hrk7 did yours allow you to hangup after your call was answered?

That's strange, I can connect an iPhone 11 and galaxy s23 at the same time. My steering wheel controls, now that's a whole other topic... literally!

No photos sorry, but it's the connector plug where the loom entered the ecu under the wiper panel. You need to remove the wipers, then the 2 plastic panels then you can see the ecu. 2 weeks now and no problem 😊

One thing that was in my passat was a footrest for the right foot to use while driving long distance. This is missing from the superb and coupled with door panel that's a little further away from my right knee, I no longer can rest my right leg while driving. There is the curved wheel well that gives some relief but I do miss that tiny ledge on the passat. Left footrest is fine. Anyone know if there's an aftermarket footrest or a Skoda accessory available?

Doesn't work on mine, is yours the mk4 latest model? The phone is selected on the right dial alright using the cars Bluetooth. When a call comes in I can answer with the right thumbwheel, but once the call starts then I cannot end it unless I use the main screen, which also I cannot use if I'm reversing because the screen locks into camera mode instead!! So I'm back to using the phone itself or waiting in awkward silence for the caller to hang up. By the way if I initiate a call, then I can use the right thumbwheel to hangup as long as the call hasn't been answered yet. I'm more convinced its a glitch now than a week ago. As an aside, I also noticed that the massage feature in the driver seat doesn't return to the position I had after use (I think?) But I'll post a topic on this later

Just in case anybody had this problem, the heater plug indicator would blink and the pending fault of over pressure in the fuel rail would show up. I got a new pressure sensor to start at the cheapest option! Didn't make any difference so I decided next was to replace the fuel rail pressure regulator. Just before stripping things down to get the fuel rail out I thought I'd check for a possible broken wire along the route back to the ecu. Shaking the wires did cause the fuel pressure to jump around and when I got back to the ecu there was a tiny bit of white powder around these connections so I cleaned them and all is well now

Just got a new mk4 and I can answer calls by pressing the right thumb wheel but can't end a call unless I take my eyes off the road and use the big screen that looks like an afterthought stuck in the middle of the car. This is really frustrating and the salesman is a dumbfounded as I am! Anybody know about this and have a workaround? It seems like a glitch in the software

Wiring diagram for the turbo actuator sensor if needed (g581) G247 is the fuel rail pressure sensor

I had nothing to loose so earlier this evening I sprayed in some brake cleaner and have it a few moments then blew it with an air line. Hey presto! Good as new again. As an aside, it had been driving for a month or more in limp mode as we needed the car every day, I suspect the egr and dpf were not able to clean themselves when in limp so I brought it to work today (sales rep) and gave it a good thrashing. It kept going into limp in the morning saying the egr was knackered but by afternoon she was good as gold. I'm bringing it in the motorway next to regen the dpf 🤞

So FINALLY!! The check valve at the start of the vacuum line was the culprit, it was partially blocked and while the line does go to full vacuum, it is slow to build up and it meant the turbo actuator would be slow to move and go outside of spec. I'm guessing the failing egr cooler diaphragm (replacing this on a 4x4 is not for the faint hearted) is allowing contamination into the line and travelling all the way back to the valve and luckily building up there and not damaging the vacuum pump. Hopefully this will all help someone else in the same boat down the line.

Ok I'll answer my own question here, the 5v goes to pin 25 and the earth goes to pin 53

That's been done as well, full and free movement here. Just did continuity test on the signal wire going back to the ecu (pin 58 by the way!) and it's perfect as well. I took out the air filter housing and battery tray so that I could see the loom all the way back and fiddled around with it, no change in full continuity all the way back. I'm going to try the 5v and earth wires next, anybody know where the earth wire finishes?

Just wondering if you still have access to elsawin? I need the ecu wiring diagram, specifically the pins that go to the turbo actuator. I've a separate topic on this..

Great idea, thanks. Does anyone know where to get a schematic for the pins on the ecu so that I test the correct ones that go to the actuator?