wexti

Wiring diagram for the turbo actuator sensor if needed (g581) G247 is the fuel rail pressure sensor

I had nothing to loose so earlier this evening I sprayed in some brake cleaner and have it a few moments then blew it with an air line. Hey presto! Good as new again. As an aside, it had been driving for a month or more in limp mode as we needed the car every day, I suspect the egr and dpf were not able to clean themselves when in limp so I brought it to work today (sales rep) and gave it a good thrashing. It kept going into limp in the morning saying the egr was knackered but by afternoon she was good as gold. I'm bringing it in the motorway next to regen the dpf 🤞

So FINALLY!! The check valve at the start of the vacuum line was the culprit, it was partially blocked and while the line does go to full vacuum, it is slow to build up and it meant the turbo actuator would be slow to move and go outside of spec. I'm guessing the failing egr cooler diaphragm (replacing this on a 4x4 is not for the faint hearted) is allowing contamination into the line and travelling all the way back to the valve and luckily building up there and not damaging the vacuum pump. Hopefully this will all help someone else in the same boat down the line.

Ok I'll answer my own question here, the 5v goes to pin 25 and the earth goes to pin 53

That's been done as well, full and free movement here. Just did continuity test on the signal wire going back to the ecu (pin 58 by the way!) and it's perfect as well. I took out the air filter housing and battery tray so that I could see the loom all the way back and fiddled around with it, no change in full continuity all the way back. I'm going to try the 5v and earth wires next, anybody know where the earth wire finishes?

Just wondering if you still have access to elsawin? I need the ecu wiring diagram, specifically the pins that go to the turbo actuator. I've a separate topic on this..

Great idea, thanks. Does anyone know where to get a schematic for the pins on the ecu so that I test the correct ones that go to the actuator?

I am wondering if the dpf maybe is blocked. But there isn't any warning light coming on

Ok so it's still saying the actuator is stuck and flashing the glow plug light, however it's always on now from about 30-50 seconds after start-up. It sometimes throws up an implausible signal code from the actuator position sensor circuit. I've put a new actuator on it (does it need to be adapted?) I've followed the wires all the way back to the ecu and removed the ecu and cleaned everything around it, unplugged it and checked for corrosion, all good. There's an earth connection near the ecu where the cabin air intake is and I've cleaned that! I've cleaned another couple of earth points as well, one behind the washer bottle filler neck and the other in the left hand side of the chassis in front of the wheel well, all were pretty good. I've replaced the N75 solenoid as well. None of these have made a blind bit of difference! I now have 2 working actuators and 2 working n75 valves! The egr valve diaphragm is leaking a bit and doesn't allow the flap to fully open it leaks above 10mmHg. This egr was replaced a few years back and it's a pig of a job to do and expensive so I'm not looking forward to that but in the meantime, thinking that the leak here was causing the turbo actuator to fail I blocked the vacuum pipe going to the egr but this also made no difference. As an aside, in case it matters, the satnav isn't working because the antenna is saying short to ground and the parking sensors have decided to give up as well saying the inner left one is kaput! Any Sherlock Holmes out there able to deduce anything from all this? Quote Reply Report •••

well it's still going into limp. Any suggestions welcome

The vanes move really freely, today I took out the map sensor and cleaned it with an airline and cloth Put it back in and checked the wiring all the way back to the ecu for any mouse nibbles as they had nibbled on the injector wiring previously, the engine cover foam makes lovely bedding seemingly! Anyway I found nothing out of place but after a few mins running and clearing faults out seemed to run fine and I drove it for a few miles and all is well, let's see what it's like when cold tomorrow..

I replaced all 4 as I was told that the others would fail as well, did yours ever give any more trouble?

Anyone know if there's a way to transfer my own topic to this section?

Hi, yea, it's a relatively easy job. Getting the e-clip off is the hardest. I put a t shirt down behind it so it wouldn't fall down behind the engine. Didn't cure my issue though and I'm still trying to sort it, See my post about the actuator limp mode. Mines a 2.0tdi with a garret turbo.