wexti

Seems that way alright, another issue I'm finding is if I'm driving all day the Bluetooth module will shut down and disappear. I'm thinking it could be overheating or something

👍 the car will ring for me. @hrk7 did yours allow you to hangup after your call was answered?

That's strange, I can connect an iPhone 11 and galaxy s23 at the same time. My steering wheel controls, now that's a whole other topic... literally!

No photos sorry, but it's the connector plug where the loom entered the ecu under the wiper panel. You need to remove the wipers, then the 2 plastic panels then you can see the ecu. 2 weeks now and no problem 😊

One thing that was in my passat was a footrest for the right foot to use while driving long distance. This is missing from the superb and coupled with door panel that's a little further away from my right knee, I no longer can rest my right leg while driving. There is the curved wheel well that gives some relief but I do miss that tiny ledge on the passat. Left footrest is fine. Anyone know if there's an aftermarket footrest or a Skoda accessory available?

Doesn't work on mine, is yours the mk4 latest model? The phone is selected on the right dial alright using the cars Bluetooth. When a call comes in I can answer with the right thumbwheel, but once the call starts then I cannot end it unless I use the main screen, which also I cannot use if I'm reversing because the screen locks into camera mode instead!! So I'm back to using the phone itself or waiting in awkward silence for the caller to hang up. By the way if I initiate a call, then I can use the right thumbwheel to hangup as long as the call hasn't been answered yet. I'm more convinced its a glitch now than a week ago. As an aside, I also noticed that the massage feature in the driver seat doesn't return to the position I had after use (I think?) But I'll post a topic on this later

Just in case anybody had this problem, the heater plug indicator would blink and the pending fault of over pressure in the fuel rail would show up. I got a new pressure sensor to start at the cheapest option! Didn't make any difference so I decided next was to replace the fuel rail pressure regulator. Just before stripping things down to get the fuel rail out I thought I'd check for a possible broken wire along the route back to the ecu. Shaking the wires did cause the fuel pressure to jump around and when I got back to the ecu there was a tiny bit of white powder around these connections so I cleaned them and all is well now

Just got a new mk4 and I can answer calls by pressing the right thumb wheel but can't end a call unless I take my eyes off the road and use the big screen that looks like an afterthought stuck in the middle of the car. This is really frustrating and the salesman is a dumbfounded as I am! Anybody know about this and have a workaround? It seems like a glitch in the software

Wiring diagram for the turbo actuator sensor if needed (g581) G247 is the fuel rail pressure sensor

I had nothing to loose so earlier this evening I sprayed in some brake cleaner and have it a few moments then blew it with an air line. Hey presto! Good as new again. As an aside, it had been driving for a month or more in limp mode as we needed the car every day, I suspect the egr and dpf were not able to clean themselves when in limp so I brought it to work today (sales rep) and gave it a good thrashing. It kept going into limp in the morning saying the egr was knackered but by afternoon she was good as gold. I'm bringing it in the motorway next to regen the dpf 🤞

So FINALLY!! The check valve at the start of the vacuum line was the culprit, it was partially blocked and while the line does go to full vacuum, it is slow to build up and it meant the turbo actuator would be slow to move and go outside of spec. I'm guessing the failing egr cooler diaphragm (replacing this on a 4x4 is not for the faint hearted) is allowing contamination into the line and travelling all the way back to the valve and luckily building up there and not damaging the vacuum pump. Hopefully this will all help someone else in the same boat down the line.

Ok I'll answer my own question here, the 5v goes to pin 25 and the earth goes to pin 53

That's been done as well, full and free movement here. Just did continuity test on the signal wire going back to the ecu (pin 58 by the way!) and it's perfect as well. I took out the air filter housing and battery tray so that I could see the loom all the way back and fiddled around with it, no change in full continuity all the way back. I'm going to try the 5v and earth wires next, anybody know where the earth wire finishes?

Just wondering if you still have access to elsawin? I need the ecu wiring diagram, specifically the pins that go to the turbo actuator. I've a separate topic on this..

Great idea, thanks. Does anyone know where to get a schematic for the pins on the ecu so that I test the correct ones that go to the actuator?

I am wondering if the dpf maybe is blocked. But there isn't any warning light coming on

Ok so it's still saying the actuator is stuck and flashing the glow plug light, however it's always on now from about 30-50 seconds after start-up. It sometimes throws up an implausible signal code from the actuator position sensor circuit. I've put a new actuator on it (does it need to be adapted?) I've followed the wires all the way back to the ecu and removed the ecu and cleaned everything around it, unplugged it and checked for corrosion, all good. There's an earth connection near the ecu where the cabin air intake is and I've cleaned that! I've cleaned another couple of earth points as well, one behind the washer bottle filler neck and the other in the left hand side of the chassis in front of the wheel well, all were pretty good. I've replaced the N75 solenoid as well. None of these have made a blind bit of difference! I now have 2 working actuators and 2 working n75 valves! The egr valve diaphragm is leaking a bit and doesn't allow the flap to fully open it leaks above 10mmHg. This egr was replaced a few years back and it's a pig of a job to do and expensive so I'm not looking forward to that but in the meantime, thinking that the leak here was causing the turbo actuator to fail I blocked the vacuum pipe going to the egr but this also made no difference. As an aside, in case it matters, the satnav isn't working because the antenna is saying short to ground and the parking sensors have decided to give up as well saying the inner left one is kaput! Any Sherlock Holmes out there able to deduce anything from all this? Quote Reply Report •••

well it's still going into limp. Any suggestions welcome

The vanes move really freely, today I took out the map sensor and cleaned it with an airline and cloth Put it back in and checked the wiring all the way back to the ecu for any mouse nibbles as they had nibbled on the injector wiring previously, the engine cover foam makes lovely bedding seemingly! Anyway I found nothing out of place but after a few mins running and clearing faults out seemed to run fine and I drove it for a few miles and all is well, let's see what it's like when cold tomorrow..

I replaced all 4 as I was told that the others would fail as well, did yours ever give any more trouble?

Anyone know if there's a way to transfer my own topic to this section?

Hi, yea, it's a relatively easy job. Getting the e-clip off is the hardest. I put a t shirt down behind it so it wouldn't fall down behind the engine. Didn't cure my issue though and I'm still trying to sort it, See my post about the actuator limp mode. Mines a 2.0tdi with a garret turbo.

Hi, mines a 2012 2.0L tdi 170bhp yeti and it's going into limp mode on just about every journey, especially when cold! It keeps saying in vagcom that the actuator is stuck or else, but less often, it's saying "turbocharger boost control position sensor circuit, implausible signal". I've replaced the actuator and the turbo vane lever moves freely without any restrictions, I've checked the lines using a vacuum gauge/pump and all were fine except there seems to be leak in the line going down behind the engine to the egr. I blocked this pipe to see if that changed anything but it neither showed an egr problem or cured my actuator problem. So that seems to be just another problem to sort at a future date!!! I've swapped the n75 valve as well with a working one and that didn't fix it... any suggestions or anyone experienced this before? It's cfja engine, thanks.

I just had the same happen to my yeti. I was driving along and got an awful burning smell. I thought someone was burning tyres or something but discovered my oil temperature wasn't showing any more, then the oil sensor warning after I stopped later. It wasn't until after it'd bought a new sensor, which didn't fix the problem, that I noticed the reversing sensors weren't working either. Finally I had two problems to search and one mention to Google brought up this thread and I went straight for the air sensor and sure enough I could smell it before I even unplugged it. You can see here where pin 1 had melted and burned out the fuse (which is the second 5amp down in the middle column of smaller Fuses located at the driver's door side of the dash. Ordering a new one tomorrow! Thanks everyone!