Stokesy

Evening Collected my new car (new to me) on saturday and took it out for its first proper spin this evening. One thing i noticed was how quickly the engine coolant got up to 90 degrees on the dial, which to me seemed way to quick I turned the engine on, it ran at high revs for around 30 secs (roughly 1200 rpm) and then went down to normal idle, whilst it was doing this i was walking around checking the wind deflectors i had fitted earlier were still tight. So in total the car probably idled for a minute and a half. I then pulled off my drive and went the 200m meters to the end of the road, pulled out onto the main road (30mph speed limit) and within a maximum of half a mile the coolant was showing 90 degrees. I have just come from a diesel which i know take longer to warm up, but surely even that is too quick for a petrol?

Thanks for the info, especially mentioning Meteor Grey, as that is the colour of my VRS Picked the car up yesterday and it is currently drizzling. Seems there is already a half decent level of sheeting / beading so i suspect it may already have had some form of coating Il give it a proper wash when some of the stuff i have ordered turns up and give it a proper inspection. From what i have seen so far the paint looks in really good condition, so hoping i may be able to just wash and protect for starters

Ckyliu - that's perfect! Thankyou Think i have got my head around this now and will look into the products you have mentioned. Car will be ready for collection on Saturday, so I have plenty of time to order some bits and wait for this weather to pass so its not so hot As for the machine, i dont know what type it is exactly, I will find out before using it.

Walts - Thanks for that, I'l have a look into Stu Undertheradar - I'l have a look at the rupes range. I know about not carrying the work out in direct sunlight and this heat, so that's not a problem. From the amount of stuff I have watched on YouTube I think I have enough knowledge to do it, just some product confusion

So i have just purchased an Octavia VRS and want it to look its best, so want to get into detailing I understand the basics, pre wash - snow foam - contact wash with two bucket method and then contamination removal (tar, iron, clay) Its the next bit i am finding a bit baffling. I understand i need to correct the paintwork, but it seems there are so many products for this stage, even from single brands that i dont know what i actually need. I can borrow a machine polisher for this stage, its the products and order i am unsure of. I quite like the look of the Gyeon range, so would probably like to stick to that unless anyone can recommend something better for similar or cheaper price. So as an example, if i were to use Gyeon - Q2M Primer do i then need to use another polish afterwards, or will this give a good enough finish to move to waxing? Will I even need to wax or can I move straight to coating? Also when it comes to coatings, if I were to use GYEON - Q² Can Coat and then use GYEON Q²M - Wet Coat after every wash will this be adequate to maintain the finish? Thanks in advance for any advice

Sorry to bump up an old thread... Can anyone give info on when the engine changes occurred, such as original 280 from X date - X date and 272 from X date - X date etc Also can someone define which do an do not have the dual port injection and GPF Thanks in advance

Interesting read thankyou I have definitely noticed the price increase with the searches i've been doing since christmas. Looks like its going to get worse before it gets better unless the supply shortage gets sorted quickly

A stop gap might have to be the way forward. I still have a few months so hoping something comes up in the mean time. Is the limited edition what they call the 'VRS Challenge'?

I am having exactly the same issue. I have a budget of 20k, am looking for a FL 245 estate DSG with a few specific options such as heated seats and Alcantara upholstery One did come up circa 150 miles away a couple of months back, but reading online reviews of the garage really put me off, I think that was a big mistake and i should have at least gone and had a look and sussed them out for myself I would prefer a Superb 280 sportline with the same options but they seem to be as rare as the proverbial rocking horse droppings Seems to just be a waiting game but with the ULEZ getting ever closer im starting to feel like time is running out now

Personally i have always put the axle stands so it supports the car by the chassis rails. However i haven't had my octavia up on axle stands so cant comment how easy it is to do on these. But you wont go wrong on the chassis rails

So to sum up, the chances of me finding a used 230 FL with the Vaq diff is probably less than winning the euro on friday night

Cheers for the replies Is there a way of telling if the car has the vaq diff before going to view it? I have no problems with travelling to the other end of the country for the right vehicle (I'm heathrow based) but would like to know before i go ideally Weyland, the age i mentioned in the first post doesent have to be stuck to like glue, its the sort of ballpark area im looking at. Obviously a car a year or two older with perfect accompanying history/servicing documents and good condition will be more than welcome

Afternoon all, I am currently in the process if buying a second hand octavia vrs and would like a few pointers please. I'm looking at cars around the 2017/18 age range in either 230 or 245 spec but definitely with the 18" alloys. My main question is will all of these cars come with the VAQ diff? I havent made my mind up on dsg or manual yet, have managed a dsg test drive but due to tomorrows lockdown will probably have to wait till december to try the manual. Will gearbox type also make a difference as to whether they will come with the VAQ diff Also is there anything else to look out for? My other specs are heated front seats, the newer style touch screen head unit (which as i understand this age car should all have) and the estate over the hatch