newskodadriver

My usual garage quoted me £500 for 6 hours of labour to disassemble the dashboard / get to the heater / blower then put it back together again. An aircon place just said £150 but didn't say how they were going to do it. I can hear it sliding left and right, but not "a lot", so wherever it is, it's not wide, like the width of the car. It also rattles up and down. I hate it.

I initially thought it was stuck in the grill because my fingers couldn't reach it and was driving home to get a pair of pincers when I turned the car into my estate and heard the coin rolling in. Initially it was stuck in the front 3rd hole to the right of the plastic center, and it rolled when I turned my car to the right 90 degrees. How bad will it to be to get it out?

No mate. I had this issue literally this week when my doors deadlocked itself due to dying wiring looms. Basically, I've not been able to find an after market door loom. The VW group specialist garage I use says you can only get them original from the manufacturer. However, there is just no stock of any door looms either in the UK from Skoda UK or the Master Depot in the Czech Republic, I had a dealership check that one for me on their systems. What it is the looms were originally made in the Ukraine. The factories there are probably making drones and shells now. And, I wouldn't recommend you trying any loom that isn't exactly the one made for your car. Even if the connections, wires etc look identical. I replaced a dead loom with one from a scrap yard that came from a newer superb, and it only half worked. Some things will not work properly. You need the exact original one. I had no choice but to take the car to an auto electrician to extend the wires and repair. The guy also wrapped extra electrical tape and sprayed some lubricant? He called it his own modifications

So I haven't found a recommendation so far, but I did have a conversation with someone who drives a Octavia, similar age but with 10000 more miles on the clock. Apparently his DPF is now affecting his fuel economy (though his regens don't have smoke). But fuel economy is so far not impacted on mine. So, maybe mine will hopefully last another 10000 miles before I have to spend any money on it

The DPF on my car is coming to its end of life. there's more smoke and smells and active regen takes longer, and needs more time at uninterrupted high speed and revs to complete. I assume there will come a time where even 20 mile loops at 2500 rpm several times a week won't cut it anymore. Don't think the DPF will live to see 300,000. But who knows, maybe warmer weather will do it some good if it makes it through the winter. Question is, what exactly is causing it to die? Is it acculated ash that "doesn't burn"? In which case, can it be "washed out" or "blown away"? Is it some kind of chemical thing where the materials are being used up? In which case it's irreversible. Does "dpf cleaning" work on a DPF with high mileage that isn't just used for short trips around town? ie, has been used under ideal circumstances, as it has obviously having lasted this long. Or is the other other alternative to a new DPF is to delete it? Is deleting it a cost effective way and work well / pass MOT? The car is currently being used for work, so I can't just delete it right now. I probably would depending on the price if I found a new job, which I have actively begun to do. If the DPF dies before I find a new job, how many extra miles would a clean add? any recommendation for a specific type of dpf clean (i think additives / machine differ) or a place for dpf delete?

Ie, to widen the compatibility when ringing around a scrap yard. It's the chrome wrapped plastic door handle that you pull to open the door, at the rear of the car, without any speakers or locking button. Some stupid idiot snapped it

So one of my fog light bulbs have gone, and apparently it uses a H8 connection, the stock is H8 Phillips halogen I believe. I want to replace it myself, as I want to do more little jobs like this myself as opposed to taking it to the garage every single time. But I am confused that a lot of the H8 halogen bulbs I see have the word "head light" in the listing titles. So are the same type of bulbs used both as a fog light and the main headlights in cars (that don't have bi xenon)? What is the correct colour temperature of fog light? Is it 4300k for greater visibility in fog as opposed to 6500k?

Have you used the proper Osram night breaker ones before? The ones that cost £115 now After using the cheap ones from amazon for a couple nights, I find that the dipped beam is brighter around the car, but full beam seems to be less bright than stock on a dark motorway. Maybe it's because I read 6000k don't project into distance as well as 4300k

Well I've installed the "sinoparcel d1s 6000k" tonight and all is well. I quite like it, not sure if it's down to the bulb being quality or that it's 6000k rather than the 4300k previous bulbs were on. But the pool of light around the car seem brighter and the reach of the beams are more distinct. Decent buy for £23 and same day delivery.

How would that happen exactly? Would the bulb have to physically explode into shrapnel or something?

What's the worst that could happen? I've just ordered a "Chinese special" off amazon lol because it was guaranteed to be delivered by 10pm tonight which gives me time to test it out. If its completely awful, well I still have tomorrow to buy new bulbs before Wed mot. Currently my car has some budget Chinese tyres on ("Delint??") and nothing bad has happened so far. Not proud of it as I needed some tyred urgently same as bulbs now but will be replaced by Xmas in the next Costco sale on Michelin all climate for a possible bad winter. I bought "sinoparcel d1s 6000k"

Well, even if it does. Its a bit too late for me personally as I have an mot on Wed and need new bulbs by tomorrow night. Amazon will be fine for that as I have prime.

I don't know. I bought them from a website called powerbulbs. The box does not have a 4 year warranty picture on. But the Osram boxes from Amazon have it. I have kept one of the box's so will check out the serial sticker when I pop out later.

I used a pair of Osram Xenarc oem replacement (65 quid 2 years ago) . 1 died suddenly at 22 months, the other is slowly dying now at 24 (it's now purple and takes 5 goes to switch the thing on). The factory originals lasted 8 years... The problem I have even when they were working is I just never thought the lights were bright enough to see potholes at night, I use full beam far more often than I should frankly. Has your night Breakers lasted you a while? I do a lot more miles than average so I'll divide by 3.

But dirt cheap cos they're made in China? There's quite a lot of random brands on Amazon. Was wondering if anyone has used any that are significantly brighter than stock as bright as the £115 osram night breaker d1s laser. I just want to save some money if I can.

I need to put some audio tracks onto the hard drive into the car (niche personal use), because there is an unacceptable 7 second Bluetooth delay on the phone, and aux input from phone doesn't work at all. Problem is that it wouldn't recognise the sd card I put into the unit. Is there anything on amazon that anyone knows would definitely work? I could also use a cd, but what sort of disc, CD R/ or RW(rewritable)? If I manually burn to a cd, what are the accepted formats?

Well at that time last weekend coolant was about 35% of maximum. Ie just over half way to middle

My dsg 12 reg took 3.5 hours of stop start driving and idling without turning off ignition to reach an oil temp of 90C in the maxidot display with outside temp of 12C. Does that mean I could do with a new thermostat? Or do you have to take into account of the coolant temperature as well. Not too sure if the oil temp is the engine oil or dsg oil...

I think you made the right choice. Every single engine light I've had on this car has been related to the EGR. The throttle valve seized up then electronics fried a while back. Cause was misaligned EGR duct directing a stream of exhaust right at the throttle valve. I had to pay for a new valve but Skoda did a an EGR "fix" because it had a factory warning sent to all the dealerships. After searching around here for EGR failures on the superb mk2, I found a few threads which indicates high number of EGRs fail not necessarily due to carbon but either because of "water ingress" ie small leak frying the electronics or because of a loose pin. From speaking to the two garages I normally use, as well as from the other thread where someone says their new aftermarket egr broke after 9k miles, apparently after market EGRs don't work well on this model, they break even faster than an original part. Tamfet ordered... I'm just amazed my own EGR lasted as long as it did.

I'm looking into that... In the mean time, how would I know if anything was amiss coolant or leaks wise with the egr unit? I think even if the egr valve was simulated, coolant would still flow through the cooler physically. Coolant leaks typically happen at the hoses / interconnect points rather than the metallic honeycomb / tunnels inside right? I'm making the assumption that coolant is not corrosive to metal. And that the cooler itself is a "dumb" component that doesn't respond to digital signals with coolant pumping through no matter what. It's been a right crash course in engine mechanics since this morning 😞 Luckily I don't think my valve is stuck on open. My car still makes that 3x ticking noise when I swith off ignition, a mechanic told me one that's from the egr trying to clean itself or something. I read that if that were to happen, there would be accompanying physical symptoms aside from CEL such as "rough idling" or something? As I read that egr valves are not supposed to be open during idle and only when throttle valve is open (acceleration / low pressure inlet or something???)

I have a failure with the egr cooler 24 hours ago. Electronic control module. Intermittent I think. Even without engine light or the coiled spring, fault codes are stored because I can see it in my obd scanner. P0403 It needs a clean or replacement, but that's not going to be done until next week. Now I've been reading a little bit about what the egr system actually does and it appears that the air is like really hot. It would probably not be good if the cooler failed catastrophically. Though so far I haven't seem any spikes in oil temperature or the red sections on the coolant gauge. And I haven't noticed any decrease in the volume of coolant on the big plastic ball in engine bay. As a temporary measure, could you simply unplug the egr unit somehow? Electronically, as removing it is a 5 hour labour job I'm told. Would that trigger limp mode?

Hes had no trouble with MOT? As in visual inspection of modifications, not actually emissions I know you said only particulates are measured. I know that dpf removals or egr delete is probably "illegal", but is this "arguable"? The other option open to me if I want to stay squeaky clean seems to be a pre owned unit, ebay has whole unit for about 50 quid taken from broken car, or about 20 for someone who's disassembled the cooler from the valve.

So my problem isn't an egr valve exactly, it's the cooler. P0403. But integrated in a single unit. Once you plug this in, does it by pass the cooler as well? I've been looking at what a cooler does, and as the name suggests it cools the exhaust gasses. I have a 2l 170 diesel 2012 mk2. Does my car use coolant in the egr cooler or is it purely physical. Cos I'm thinking that actually, hotter gas won't actually be bad for the engine? Because if you remove the egr the engine will run hotter anyway? Emissions are like polar bears and Greta Thunberg, don't care about any of them... The car doesnt go into limp mode atm. Was told as long as I keep reseting the engine light, the dpf will kick in. Of course if coolant is leaking into the engine that would be bad.. But so far I haven't noticed any coolant loss from the big plastic ball.

I've just got the same code, funnily enough another 2012 superb 170 2.0 diesel. ODIS diagnostic is egr cooler but as valve and cooler is same unit I was quoted 720 for parts and labour at an independent specialist for an original part. Ebay has some cheap parts but I don't know whether they fit the car..

Is this the same as egr delete? Does it need remapping? Can any garage do this? Does it pass emissions for mot both visually in the engine bay and from the exhaust? I've just been quoted a bill of about 700 for a new egr unit. I'm not a mechanic but I've always thought the concept of the egr is like the mechanical version of the human centipede, what kind of sick scientist thought feeding exhaust gas to an engine was a good idea..