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Kobayashi
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Posts posted by Kobayashi
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I've just gone back to the original brake discs and pads for £100 two discs and two pads the stopping power not much different road traffic, the braided lines might be helping that, it's not great on OEM but does the job, they squeak a lot as my grooved ones were bent. The red stuff pads awesome but wouldn't fit with standard brake discs.
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Does the CTHE have the CAVD oil jets that were remedied on the CAVE oil burners as the spray pattern was excessive? The main fix as discussed many times was the oil jets off a CAVD VW Scirocco. Breather pipe only didn't work.
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Thanks Sep 2010 is car reg date, is it easy fix how do I get to the wiring without breaking anything ?
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So the driver door window control light is lit up and driver door works,the passenger unit is not lit up and doesn't work and can not be operated using driver door switch either.. have checked both 25 amp fuses and both are fine - have swapped them round.. what next??always something every Xmas without fail ..🤦
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Time to replace the EBCs I've noticed a massive difference in price on euro car parts, what's everyone using Brembos or the cheapest??, standard road driving only
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Seem to remember in my ex car MK3 2016 reg you had to press pause> play>pause then it would remember where it was on the usb playlist when engine next turned on
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They don't last forever and you say you are burning oil still in other posts, mine was sooty up until I got the oil fixes, then I upgraded to milltek catback which was about double price of normal stock
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This was my old one when it failed early 2021, the garage noted that in the new part there was 'no play' like the original factory part above.. Also on a 'cold day but hot run' I had steam coming out from the vents in my bonnet. By then it was using more coolant for certain. Another part that fails slowly then suddenly.... -
I'm pretty certain that sound is when the waterpump on the way out, has your coolant dropped at all?
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2 hours ago, Badassfabia said:
I’ll put that to the garage when it goes in at the end of March. When I’ve had to turn it off and restart it, it’s reversing !!
The last moments of my gearbox only Reverse would work, forwards there was nothing but grinding noises. The gearbox was failing slowly then it went suddenly, Gears were skipping D2 & D5 into D (flashing) there were no other errors on dash but was dangerous. Was a nightmare.. took over a week to sort using Lancs Auto Transmissions in Bury for a reconditioned mechatronics unit , and then replacement clutch with Motor Robs Garage Darwen. As mentioned in my build thread £2.6k . A brand new mechatronics unit alone is £2.5k from the dealer. I would have really wanted to fit a DQ250 instead of the DQ200 as Thomasspin has done but was more unknown territory and was desperate for car back...
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Unfortunately these VRS MK2 are a money pit, oil fixes £700+ , waterpump £700+ , Mechatronics + new Clutch packs recoding £2.6k , various sensor issues over the years, luckily I've been taking too same consistent garage otherwise would have given up by now.
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CAVD is the Scirocco ?? Interestingly the oil jets off the CAVD were used to fix the CAVE in the oil burning days.. (different spray pattern)
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Bought 2 days ago... take it back.. the fault code would have been cleared but still appearing every 10 minutes if you intend on fixing which you shouldn't have to as you just bought.. check my project thread I've just had to replace the mechatronics box and clutch, recoding etc. £2.6k The DQ200 on a a CAVE and CTHE will fail eventually, mine failed at 62k ...
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So after fitting a reconditioned mechatronics which is a newer model and coding with the help of Lancs Transmissions / Motor Robs Garage the car is back to normal, 'another resuscitation from the dead so to speak'
A hefty bill £2.6k. Can't afford a new 'old car' or a new car at all, so no choice but to plough on.. The clutch was skipping in Gears 2 and 5 though it's unclear if one issue caused the other. For Info A brand new OEM mechatronics from the Skoda dealer is Approx £2.5k alone.... Lancs Auto will re-furbish my old mechatronics and the cycle will continue for someone else...
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I've got the MK3 16" ones on at the minute with Uniroyal tyres 215/45r/16 it is a bit better but I'm on coilovers
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New mechatronics unit alone from dealer is £2.5k 😲, Lancs transmissions in Bury will take mine & give me a reconditioned one & has to be coded the tuning shop will do the rest, they have used them before on many DQ200 DSGs this way it can done for half of cost of a brand new one. ..the clutch plates on mine are apparently ok. The DQ250 option he doesn't know the cost of that but I'm guessing it's more than the DQ200 refurb..
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Sounds ideal for the more reliable DQ250 option if it's 'mega repair' to the DQ200... it was booked in for tomorrow originally, so they not even looked at it yet. I'm on a bus route for work so it's not too bad to be without it and will defo weigh up options if it's catastrophic
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So at the minute the gearbox is seized up after the flashing D symbol being on a a few weeks, will only go in Reverse, it's with the tuning shop to look at this week, I know this was inevitable one day and at 60k mileage it has only ever done short miles but lots of stop start gear changes so the clutch plates are probably worn out. If the DQ200 is broken Does it work out better to fit the DQ250 which is more reliable? I am sure my tuning shop can do the work just interested in opinions on it?
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So after weeks of flashing D and no issue the car suddenly this week was losing gears going Into D with no number so I got it towed to garage over weekend and then when taken off the loader would not move forwards at all only backwards, don't know whether it's the mechatronics or the actual clutch plates or DSG, gonna be something major that's for sure...
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5 hours ago, toot said:
OK.
Your DSG has not had the Synthetic oil since it got '34F7' done.
Not had anything done DSG wise since '34F7' and only done 35k since that, as there is no service to be done as such, same as Timing chain.
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P177F is error code on scan.. 'Hydraulic Pump motor insufficient voltage' a quick search around the VW forums comes up with replace 'TCU' part or new mechatronics / reconditioning needed..
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3 hours ago, toot said:
Is that no mater which route you drive in that 10 mins if there are choices?
What happens then at the 10 minutes, different speed limit or something else. 12 year old DQ200 dsg. Sh!t happens.
Re 10 minutes,
Coincidentally is that just about when the indicated oil temp gets to 90*oC or so. Not related.
Just got past 10mins 30-40mph no flashing then I used the tiptronic drop down a gear then back up & flashing started again. If turn car back on again the flashing is gone (temporarily again), gear changes all smooth with no juddering. Oil about 70c after 10mins (in this cold weather)
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48 minutes ago, thomasaspin said:
My Dsg failed around the same mileage that’s why I did a dq200 to dq250 swap which could be worth looking into if the gearbox fails
Doubt I can afford something that big of a job .. it's booked in for a scan tomoz.. interestingly the flashing comes on dead on 10min 'travel time' mark
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These seems to be what started it on mine I was on an uphill section & changed to paddles which ive not done for a long time. Though the flashing issue is happening randomly as I haven't used paddles since, hopefully it's a minor issue... The only major items not to have gone on this car is the DSG at 61k miles, and the mechatronics unit so I'm.on borrowed time that's for sure. Car is nearly 13 years old now, how it's got this far is a miracle
New purchase likes drinking oil…………. Cthe vrs
in Skoda Fabia Mk II (2007-2014)
Posted
Mine was a heavy burner.. The Skoda map after the fixes when I Dyno the car was downtuned at 171bhp. That was put up to 200bhp with stage 1 map and intake change once it was sorted, it's been good ever since on the oil