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Posts posted by Kobayashi
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If a mating part with the one you have changed fails then yes, the warranty would have an excuse if not all OEM, i would not change any parts in warranty other than sundrie items, or any parts that made insurance increase. Suggested the insurance calculator method just to see or you could just ring the warranty company
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Some mods don't affect the price (quotemehappy- aviva), on the MK2 I changed: milltek sports cat, air filter, uprated brakes and it didn't change the insurance price so maybe worth adding if your car is new.
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All your mods could be purchased on the car second hand and you wouldn't know what they all are😋 if you bought brand new this excuse won't work.
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The waterpump problems stretch back a good 10 years on the VW range, metal ones were introduced at some point then quickly reverted back to plastic. The metal ones also failed but caused more damage with mating parts
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Have updated the water pump thread with video of failing component,
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Here is the old water pump there is about 1.5mm of excessive play (that according to the tuning shop), did not exist in a brand new component. This is what is giving rattles and (squeaks). It is probably a part that wears slowly then fails suddenly.
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3 hours ago, Nodnerb said:
Thanks for the replies so far.
@Kobayashi Haven't noticed any coolants loss, however I haven't kept much of an eye on it up to yet so it is possible. And there is a noise for 30 seconds or so at cold start-up, hard to recall exactly without hearing it now but I want to say its a little squeak/tapping sound, maybe even close to a chirping. Isn't too loud but noticeable when idle with an open window.
@KenONeill Okay, thanks for the info. I haven't checked the injectors and don't have VCDS either. I'm not very mechanically minded but know a few bits here, handy though so the plugs were no problem with a guide.
@e-RoottootAll of the pulled plugs were just a fraction short of 0.7, I'd say close to 0.68.
The new ones are have a gap of 0.8, as I think you also recommended or said you used in another thread.
I have no documentation of a water pump being replaced, I will double check now and get back if there is.
I haven't used the cruise control but perhaps I should give that a test as see if it does as you say? That's if my car returns without any reported problem, which is likely.
Thanks
I am inspecting my old waterpump 2moz, there is excessive play in the mechanism, will upload a video to the 'water pump thread' the new waterpump had no play, keep an eye on coolant as when it is near the end it really starts to suck the coolant
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24 minutes ago, KenONeill said:
Likewise; it's more likely for a bad plug to eat a coilpack, and it is possible for a new plug to also be bad. My experience across all the sets of plug my meatspace friends and I have replaced says that about 1 plug in 1_000 is bad; I make that 1/1_000_000_000_000 that you'd get 4 bad plugs.
This is how I originally discovered the oil problem and plug problem, also had 1 bad denso plug (unlucky) that is in them pictures above
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Have you any coolant loss from expansion tank or strange noises when startup / idle? I've just had the £250 + labour waterpump part replaced. Mine 11 years old, If this waterpump part is failing it could cause boost problems.
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He does the bookings by area at covered factory yards etc..so you may have to wait a while but there's always cancellations
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There's the Nick Wiley guy on Facebook he did mine, he does a real pro fit. Carbon, colour matched etc..
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Under every car bonnet I've ever opened have only ever seen a plastic impeller ( the part you top up) and that's a lot of MK3 golf, polos, Skoda's and vauxhall. Never seen another type!
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I presume all part nos still relevant for waterpump, No EML light, but weird noises sounds like squeaky belts / pulleys. Slight steam rather than smoke coming from underneath. Coolant went below minimum yesterday for first time ever. 53k miles so this water pump has had a hard life at 11 years old. Booked in on Friday for tuning shop to look at properly.
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After 34F7 it had another ECU update before the oil mods in 2016. They did this before the oil fixes and it didn't solve oil issues, then had the breather oil jet oil fixes + Another ECU update and the oil problem solved but car was 'detuned' . The tuning shop know they run rich and altered the map from 173 back to around 202bhp for me
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On 27/04/2021 at 20:41, e-Roottoot said:
After this update my VRS mk2 car was detuned to 173bhp when I had it dyno'd. Then after oil fixes modded back up to low 200. Touchwood DSG is fine to say it's over 10 years old now & that's on a CAVE
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On 27/04/2021 at 20:41, e-Roottoot said:
After this update my VRS mk2 car was detuned to 173bhp when I had it dyno'd. Then after oil fixes modded back up to low 200. Touchwood DSG is fine to say it's over 10 years old now & that's on a CAVE
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9 year no claim I'm paying £350 per year but I'm well over 25
Try quotemehappy
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DSG wont solve traction problems at 300hp.
If chasing BHP is your thing honestly your next 'Racer hot hatch' needs to be a 4WD, you could have have probably had an AMG A45 tuneable up to nearly 600bhp.
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3 hours ago, NathLand said:
Is anyone having trouble buying from Superskoda? Trying to buy some front and rear mud flaps but it’s saying they’re too heavy to be shipped which doesn’t make sense to me as they’re just plastic
From memory you have to select heavier and more costly packaging option
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A Hybrid Fabia VRS MK4 is about the only car I would consider and since it will never exist there will not be a 'buzz' about the MK4.
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On 04/01/2021 at 19:57, thomasaspin said:
205/45/r17 bro, feels a lot less of a bumpy ride
I got mine raised up a bit as coilovers had no spring/give at all when really low, so 1inch gap now when i changed the tyres, seemed to make a difference on rear tyre wear on those 'fast roundabouts' and comfort is about 2/3 of original springs.
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2 hours ago, DieselMonte said:
I mean, mismatched axle to axle isnt too bad all things considered. If its two different tires side to side per axle and especially on the front I would agree with you. I understand that on a track the main problem would be tires heating up at different rates and what not,but if you have the same tires side to side of each axle would this not become a non issue? Besides, on a nose heavy,front wheel drive car such as the fabia wouldn't the front wheels be doing 90% of the work on a trackday, so them tyres would be the ones that would be taking the brunt of the wear and tear of hard track driving. Because of this, surely the rear tyres wouldnt necessarily need to be some mega expensive r-comp barely street legal tyre, a decent tyre should suffice for all but the very top level of racing
Unless you have brand new good tyres and they are warm with lower than normal pressure, anything above 200bhp you are wheel spinning FWD from a standing Traffic light start. Would only consider 205 at the rear if 215 on the front and on a deal for 205, In the DSG MK2 you have to be slightly rolling a bit. Extra Power is nothing without traction to go with it
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What size are you on fronts, i replaced the rainsports a while back as the rears were shot on the inside edge, went with 4 X 215/40/17 Yokohama Advan Neova.
Smoked front and rear lights
in Skoda Fabia Mk II (2007-2014)
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The 1st time i got them tinted at a window tint place it started to peel back on the tail lights, so the second time I had to use an automotive silicone to fill in the edges around all the lights. Just took a lot of time to do