fabia88

Thanks for the info, do you know how far either side of the the indentation on the sill is reinforced, or is it simply as far as the metal is visibly thicker?

Hi everyone, Recently I purchased a Skoda superb mk2 2.0tdi and would like to do some work on it. However, other than the lifting points on the sills (where it is indented with an arrow) I can't see any prescribed areas where the car can be supported. I am asking as I only go under a car if there is at least two forms of support for the sake of safety. does anyone know any other structural hard points where which the car can be supported from without damaging anything? Thanks

Thanks for the information, I am currently looking at getting a new car with 4wd, two options I was considering were the skoda yeti and LR freelander 2 which uses the same system. With a max budget of £4500 I am looking at ones with moderate milage (70-100K) so maybe I should also factor in a replacement pump, filter and fluid to be on the safe side.

Hi, what milage did this issue occur at?

Update: just got in the car and the electric windows are working again, how i am not sure. When I get the time I will definitely be replacing the battery as the last thing I need is to be stuck in the middle of nowhere. Also I will remove the do card, check/fix all the seals and make sure there is no corrosion on any of the electrical contacts. On a side note, how well do fabias hold up at high mileages? mine currently has 100k on the clock, it has the 1.4bxw engine.

Thanks for all the advice, I don't think I did check fuse 11 so I will do that as soon as I have time. Replacing the battery may also be a good shout as its at least 5/6 years old and probably worn out. Also I think I should add, recently I replaced the driver's door wiring loom, it is possible I may have damaged a seal or vapour barrier resulting in moisture ingress. Could this be a cause?

I checked the battery and everything seems ok. The readings were 12.1V with the engine off, 14.5V with the engine running and 14.1V with all the lights, heaters, AC an fans on full (high load).

Thanks for the advice. Unfortunately I don't have a battery charger, but I do have a multimeter so I'll check the battery voltage with the engine off and when running to see if the battery or alternator has problems. I guess disconnecting the battery and leaving the car for a few hours may also be worth a try.

Hi all, Recently I found that both front electric windows have stopped working on my 2007 mk2 fabia, none of the switches work. Also none of the fuses for the windows were blown and the door loom wires are not broken. Strangely when putting the key in the drivers door lock and holding in the unlocked/locked positions the windows would open and close. After doing some research I thought of three possibilities: 1.All the switches have failed within a week of each other (unlikely but possible i guess) 2.the control module in the drivers door has failed 3.the comfort module is malfunctioning I would really appreciate any thoughts as to what could be wrong. Thanks in advance.

Thanks for all the advice, I have decided to go ahead and change the cambelt and water pump myself as the job doesn't look too complex and I have a haynes manual which shows me the process.

Hi everyone. I was wondering could someone give me some advice regarding the cambelt change interval on my car, its a skoda fabia 1.4 16v with the bxw engine. Looking around through different manuals and websites I have seen all sorts of contradictory information for the change intervals ranging from 4 years and 40000 miles to over 100000 miles and no time limit. It has been 34000 miles and 5 years since the cambelt, water pump, idlers and tensioners were last (allegedly) changed according to the service booklet. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Hi there, sorry to hear about you car troubles. I would not eliminate timing trouble just yet though as the belt may have skipped a tooth or two rather than snappinv meaning the engine would turn over but run horribly or not at all. To check the timing pull the timing covers off and see if the timing marks on the crank pully and camshaft pully line up, I they do then its probably not a timing issue. It may be worth buying a scan tool for the car as then you should be able to see if there are fault codes for things like injectors, glow plugs and maybe the fuel pump as if any of these are faulty it could cause issues starting. The last thing I can think of is (but please don't take this the wrong way) to make sure the car is not out of fuel and was not misfuelled. I hope this is of some help to you and good luck finding the problem.

Correct me if I am wrong but Wino you stated that the symptoms are worse on cold start suggesting it may not be an issue of valves overheating.