Isitme

It turned out to be a crack in the block and or a blown head gasket. Even though it showed no other signs of this kind of a problem it still was the issue for me. After fixing the cracks and changing the gasket the issues were sorted. It might be just the case of blown gasket, it doesn't mean your engine has cracks, but in my case it turned out to be the worst case. Even though it is not the best answer to hear i hope this helped.

Yes i did. It was stuck because of the internals were bad because bad retention clip.

Okay. Thank you! I will try to do that and see if that helps. As for the caliper, i did torque it down until it looked like it moved in place, while holding the pin with a spanner.

Thank you for your suggestion. That is indeed an example picture. For my case is a new rotors and pad, but looks exactly the same as on the picture for the rust spots, like some water droplets but is not rubbing off from breaking. I will try to see the other side and most importantly clean the pad carrier more. But as for the pad carrier, shouldn't it affect it the other way around? The Top not touching and only the mid of the rotor contacting the rotor?

Hello, And thank you both for your suggestions. The sliders were not totally clean. I did scrape them with screwdriver, but i could probably do a better job at cleaning them and maybe installing the metal sheets that came with pads. As for the piston, i got it out, cleaned and reinstalled. It was moving quite good and felt okay. The Rotors in the picture are not my case. This is just an example i found. My rotors and pads are just freshly purchased. The rotors are FREMAX and Pads are Bosch. I did not remove the carrier. Just removed the caliper and cleaned the Guide Pins.

Hello, I recently installed new brake pads and rotors, but now i noticed that inner part of the rotor is getting rusty. After driving and trying harder braking and hand brake the inner part of the rotors looks like in the picture below. During my install process i: *Reassembled the caliper piston and it was moving as it should. *Cleaned and greased the guiding pins *Cleaned the pad resting sliders (No idea how they are called). But they were quite rusty so i should probably look into it more. *Bled the brakes. I looked in google and in the forum, but mostly people suggest the guiding pins, but i feel they should be moving freely enough. I hope that you can help to guide me to the issue that could cause this kind of symptoms.

Thanks for the encouragement, but i'm scared as **** to remove the turbo, but i will try to find courage to do it sooner than later. BTW today is -20C here so i am not going outside

My understanding is that at low speed setting the vanes are closed, so the minimum exhaust gasses can spin the turbine faster by generating more boost. When you start to drive faster, the turbine will spin faster, but vanes will still be closed, so you will get the over boost. That is just my assumption. I have no clue if that is actually true. So i wounder if sucking vacuum will open or close the vanes?

Is it safe to drive without that vacuum line connected? For the sake of testing it? Or will it cause overboost?

I have cleaned it before, but maybe it didn't get cleaned entirely. Does anyone know when the turbo is at low speed setting? Is it at full vacuum or is it when there is no vacuum? Basically what i want to know is when the vanes of the turbo are most closed. Because when i cleaned the turbo when i sucked the vacuum i felt the vanes jump over one obstacle harder. Maybe it is sticking at that place to close the vanes.

That doesn't really explain why sometimes on morning time it works perfectly. You can feel when the car has power to pull. That seems to be completely different from vibrations from clutch. I understand it can be clutch, but the clutch feels fine and i'm trying to rule out cheaper "lets try to change it and then see if it worked" options.

Hello, While taking off from stand still the car will will vibrate like it was on high load, same as if you put in too high gear and too low revs. If i accelerate by giving more throttle then the vibration is minimized. I understand that this should be somewhat normal, but my friends octy has a very similar setup and it pulls a lot better while taking off which is why i am trying to locate the problem. On higher revs the car feels smooth and pulls very well, but on lower revs it feels like it has not enough power. This couldn't be the flywheel since there are some mornings with rich air where the car will pull like new without any shaking. Has anyone experienced similar issues and managed to fix it? So far i suspect that it could be some of the below issues: 1. MAF sensor, because unplugging it doesn't seem to make much difference, but the vibration seems to get a little worse (Maybe it is slowly on its way out?). 2. CCV breather not operating because i get oil blow by from oil filler cap. Maybe the additional air from CCV going into air intake changes the air/fuel ratio or Too much pressure in crankcase? 3. Vacuum leak, which i understand can increase pressure in engine from vacuum pump? Because when removing the oil cap i can feel pressure coming out of it, but it does not look like exhaust gasses from piston ring blow by. No smell or smoke coming out just pressurized air. 4. Related to vacuum leak i have also received some over boost error codes. It happened much more often, but Mr.Muscle helped to solve it. Now it happens very rarely. Maybe the vacuum is too weak to move the VNT? 5. Or maybe the catalytic converter is clogged up and is building too much back pressure for the engine from exhaust side? Car is Octavia 1Z 2007 1.9 TDI (BXE) with 155K miles on it . I will appreciate any input or comment on the topic. Thank you!

Hey, i have purchased the same setup. With ELM Bluethooth OBD Adapter and Windows Phone with OBD Auto Doctor. I Was able to connect it and show some basic data, but to me it felt that it was very limited so i went in different direction to get the job done. Are you actually able to read some of the error codes? Because mine didn't show any even i had some come up with the other option.

You can first try to just unplug the cars battery and see if it starts to work normally? The car stores the radio code, so you shouldn't be prompted to insert the code when switching it back on.

The slip ring can be quite expensive since it comes together with control module for your year model. Though i am not sure how costly i can be exactly, but i assume there is a great deal of money you will pay for the change to the dealer too. You can consider to change it yourself if you are handy. Seems to be not so hard process. Maybe you can read through the cruise control retrofitting post, which covers basically same steps as you need to carry out.