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zejdkoco1

Finding my way
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Posts posted by zejdkoco1

  1. Hello, I am aware that the A/C compressor wont kick on when the outside temperature is bellow 5 degrees celsius. I find that rather odd as I often need to defrost the windows, and without the AC it takes much longer. Can someone explain to me why is it like that? Why cant I run the compressor on cold temperatures? Is there any way to bypass this, and turn on the compressor? Thanks in advance.

  2. On 24/06/2019 at 11:08, KenONeill said:

    @zejdkoco1 - Possible causes (0) - Gear linkage needs adjusted.

    I did adjust the linkages, the only way I could do it without lifting the car and that is by undoing those plastic retainer clips on the gearbox itself, putting the gear lever in the locking position, locking the moving arm thing on top of the gearbox, then snapping the retainers back. Are you suggesting checking out the linkages that come out of the gear stick? 

     

  3. On 23/06/2019 at 18:52, petrolbloke said:

    What's the mileage? Has the clutch or gearbox oil ever been changed?

     

    The gearbox oil is cheap and easy to change - I would start with that. I changed mine for the first time at just under 190k miles - it made a noticeable difference.

    The clutch is old, as the car has 230K kilometers on the clock and we have it since it had 90K and didn't do the clutch, but it works fine, no slip no unusual behavior, other than that one time the pedal fell to the floor, but since then the car behaves just as before. 

  4. Hi, I have a 5 spd manual gearbox in my mk1 Octavia, and I started to notice that sometimes when shifting gears, if I do it slightly faster (under 1-2 seconds) the lever hesitates to go int gear half way in, then I need to push it harder to engage. There are no grinding noises, I felt this with my 1st gear, reverse is even harder a little bit, but since yesterday I am noticing it with 3rd. I am suspecting synchro wear. I adjusted the linkages on the gearbox but it's still the same. I am thinking on changing the gearbox oil but I'm not sure how this would help. The problem is less noticeable when I first start driving, bud when the car gets hot it becomes more notchy and hesitant. It isn't undrivable by any means but it lowkey bothers me. Also a few days ago the clutch pedal was stuck down, maybe 1/3 way from bottom, I had to pull it back up by hand and the car was fine afterwards, this was the first time it happened. I read somewhere that maybe the clutch isnt disengaging all the way, but given that the problem is with 1st, reverse and now 3rd gear I presume all gears would have this problem if it was cause of the clutch? so here are my suspects:

    1. Failing synchros

    2. Old gearbox oil

    3. Problems with the clutch, air in the system maybe? worn clutch material?

     

    If you could help me diagnose this I would be thankful.

  5. 6 minutes ago, nige8021 said:

    That eBay seller also has the speedo stepper motor and that ia listed as different part number, however I've just looked at my spare speedo unit and all 4 stepper motors have the same part number stamped on them  91-255-008-mag-4 and there are only 4 soldered connections to de-solder to remove the stepper motor

    Ok thanks for the exact serial number on part, because i managed to find much cheaper ones on aliexpress (like 5€). The ebay listing is more expensive than a used instrument cluster.

  6. 22 minutes ago, nige8021 said:

    A replacement speedo unit isn't a plug n play, you need to read the PIN code of the original unit and the replacement unit, then with VCDS you can re-code the replacement to your immobiliser code, the distance readout can be adjusted with VCDS but only as an increase in distance not to reduce it, so the replacement would need to be at a lower distance than your original 

     

    You can buy replacement stepper motor units to replace your faulty one https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Stepper-Motor-Tachometer-Speedometer-for-Audi-BMW-Mercedes-Seat-Skoda/132996596307?fits=Car+Make%3ASkoda|Model%3AOctavia+I|Cars+Year%3A2003&hash=item1ef7370253:g:l1MAAOSwjfhckfH9   

    Okay so I will definitely look into the stepper replacement. Are all the motors the same? for Tachometer, Speedo, fuel and temp guage? Or do I specifically need the stepper motor for tachometer?

  7. Hi all, my tachometer needle isn't working. It doesn't even move, i can rotate the needle (with cover off) while the engine is running and feel no resistance from the servo. Everything else works, gauges, warning lights etc. There is a tach signal from engine because i can read it with an OBD-II Bluetooth app. I'm pretty sure the servo is dead, tried disconnecting and reconnecting the cluster it still doesn't work. I was wondering if a servo replacement is easier than changing the whole cluster since I'm not sure about the immobilizer and also how to keep the mileage of the car. I don't know how to reprogram it. Is it plug and play, or is it more technical and would require me to go to a mechanic?

  8. Hi guys, if someone finds this thread, I have found the cause of the beeping and feel kinda stupid. I have an LPG conversion on the car and the little module inside the car was beeping to inform me to change the LPG fuel filter. It has nothing to do with the car itself. I guess you learn on your own mistakes. There is no way you will experience this unless you have the exact LPG kit.

    • Like 2
  9. 31 minutes ago, JCP said:

    I am not sure but I think it may be a low battery voltage warning. How old is the battery and does charging the battery make the problem go away?

    Well the battery is fairly new, the car starts fast (not the usual slow startup when battery is low). Even after running a while, when the battery is charged it still beeps. I can check the voltage with a multimeter, but I don't think its the battery.

  10. Hello, I have this strange problem that started happening a few days ago. I drive a Skoda Octavia mk1 2.0 Petrol from 2002. Every time I turn the engine off (no matter if it's warm or cold) I hear 3 beeps from the dash, no lights from the instrument cluster, and it doesn't beep when I start the engine. I get the usual lights on the cluster when I turn the car on then they go away. I tried turning the radio off to see if it comes from there and that is not the case. Leaving headlights on or off doesn't make any difference. The beeps are quick and always 3 beeps. It is a different tone than when you leave lights on and remove the key. Also when I turn the key to ACC and power and back to off it doesn't beep. Only when the engine is started and turned off. If I leave the key in the lock after turning the engine off it still beeps. I just want to know if its something important and critical. Thanks in advance.

  11. 42 minutes ago, KenONeill said:

    @zejdkoco1 - @mushtafa may well be right, but this also sounds a bit like you may be running out of vacuum for the servo.

    Well, usually when I park the car, after several hours the brakes are still soft (well until it gets to the middle). I had a gut feeling it could be as the car engages the front brakes first then the rear ones (if I am correct) maybe the front brakes are assisted while the rear ones aren't? (sorry if I'm totally wrong but Im not a car person)

     

    PS: I know how hard the pedal is when the car is not running, and the "lower" harder part of my pedal is not as hard, so there is still some assistance there

  12. Hello, I drive a Skoda Octavia I from 2002. It's 2.0L petrol engine and has disk brakes on all wheels and ABS. Now I have a question, not sure if it's supposed to be like that or not, but when I brake, the pedal feels like it has two stages, a soft upper part and as I push the pedal more, half way down it becomes hard. When driving normally (in city) usually the "soft" part is enough to stop the car, but when coming to a stop from a downhill or doing a hard brake, I go past the soft part and then really need to press the pedal hard in order to stop. The first time I tried to stop the car on a downhill I almost had a crash, because it caught me off guard (when I passed my driving test). I drove several (friends') cars and none of them had brakes like this. Sorry if the post is too long, but thanks in advance.

  13. When the cabin fan is off, but the system isn't (any time the display shows values) you'll get ram air ventilation which is speed dependant, unless you've selected "Recirc"(ulation) mode.

     

    Well, it makes sense, but when I drive, the climate unit is off completely (it says "OFF") on the screen, and there is still a breeze of hot air coming through the vents. Maybe the control flap is stuck, but again, the unit works perfectly, supplying hot air, A/C works too. Only thing I've never tried is "Recirc" mode. Maybe the flap will get unstuck. I mean this isn't a big issue (as I can just close the vents and it's fixed), but I found it strange. Thanks for the info! Hopefully some can help with the Tacho too, It is higher on my priority list :D

  14. Hi guys, this is my first post here.
    I've been looking on google and some other forums, trying to find a solution for this problem. I have a Skoda Octavia Elegance from 2002 with the 2.0 litre petrol engine. It has done 190.000 km. So far it behaves nicely except for one thing. I started driving it recently (for about a month, since I got my drivers licence). The tachometer needle is stuck beyond the maximum RPM (read line) and just hangs there, there is no motion, sometimes very rarely it moves a little, but nothing useful. I has been like this for maybe a year, but my sister didn't bother with it. Since I'm a starter, I would like to read my RPM, also It goes on my nerves when I look at it, just hanging there. If anyone knows something, pls help.

     

    Also, I have one more question. I'm not sure if this is normal behavior. A few days ago, I was driving on a highway, doing maybe 120km/h, and I noticed that hot air is coming through the vents even with the heating and blower turned off. It isn't a strong wind, but you can feel the car getting hot inside, as the pretty warm air comes from all the vents on the dashboard. This also happens when driving slower, but it is really noticeable one you get to higher speed.

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