The1stlegend

Hi everyone I have the p2015 fault show up intermittently on my 2.0tsi petrol, car runs fine for now but I'm sure things can only get worse in time and knowing my luck it will come on during the MOT! I'll attach the p2015 fault result that I got from the OBM reader here also Speaking with Skoda they quoted £480 just for the part (06j-133-201-bh) so I don't think I'll use them even if I do manage to get some goodwill from them So my question is, has anyone tried an aftermarket alternative intake manifold such as this? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HIGH-FLOW-MANIFOLD-AUDI-VW-SKODA-2-0T-FSI-TSI-Upgrade-GT-GTI-CUPRA-R-VRS-TTS-S3-/163432308454?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0 I'm still not 100% sure if that is a compatible version or if it comes with flaps, sensor etc but if the OEM part has a known issue like their chain tensioners then I wondered if it was worth trying something else basically thanks

Ok thank you

I don't think it has ever worked in all the years I've owned it to be honest so it should be ok, never knew it was there lol. Does anyone know what colour the led should be for the abs warning light though? I'm guessing it's red, if it ever fails at least I know I can fix it soon enough

Thanks for all the replies folks I have successfully replaced the LEDs for the Speedo. One of the originals seemed to still work so I guess the LEDs are in series? The LEDs I bought are brighter than the originals but I'm not too bothered about that. One thing. I noticed when testing other LEDs in the cluster is that my ABS light doesn't seem to work but I don't have a red or orange LED to replace it with so I left it. Think it probably hasnt worked for years but should pass an MOT without it anyway haha Thanks again!

Best I could find that might be around 7000k are these: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/310402822610 Doesn't have all the info on there although I'm not actually sure I will need to replace any as the LED does work sometimes. I imagine an LED either works or it doesn't? So it's hopefully just a dry solder joint or something

Ok thanks I will try that I am hoping it's just a bad connection somewhere. It would be nice to have a spare LED ready though just incase it does need changing

Yeah, hopefully

Hi all, I can't seem to find anywhere that sells the LED's for an instrument cluster or what these types of LED are called exactly. Just wondered if anyone knew where to get them from? I might not need them as sometimes the LED does work so it's hopefully just a loose connection but it might be worth replacing all of them whilst I have the chance Thanks

Ok so its been a few days since letting the dealership take a look and its been fine so far. Apparently they just forgot to mention that after 20k or so miles the engines can lose coolant due to air gaps so it was just that. Car had a new engine thanks to the chain tensioner issues but that's another story lol.

Why would that help?

Yes i tried that and also tried squeezing the pipe from the radiator to try and help it along but it didn't seem to help. Turning off the engine with the cap off also causes the coolant to overflow

Hi all I recently took my 2009 Octavia vrs on a long journey and before this I'd done a usual quick check of the engine etc and found the engine coolant was on the minimum level. Next day it was above the maximum so i decided not to top it up. During the trip the engine coolant level warning light popped up so i pulled over to find there was almost no coolant left in the tank (engine temp has always stayed right in the middle on the dash). I turned the engine off and within seconds the engine coolant returned to the correct level between the min/max indicator. I finished my journey and returned with no further warning and the temp always remained in the middle. I've booked the car into the dealership next week to work out what the problem is but was just wondering if anyone else had this issue before? When i turn the engine off the coolant returns quite quickly so my guess would be an airlock in the system somewhere as there must be some pressure there to do that. Can also hear gurgling from the coolant after starting and stopping the engine.

It's best to get the latest revision tensioner fitted as it can fail without warning. It shouldn't rattle on the first second of start-up, it would be better if you could record starting the engine. But 2011 you should still get the latest tensioner fitted

Sounds ok to me but it's hard to tell from a video. If he's worried about the chain tensioner issue then i found it to be most noticeable when you first start the engine from cold, only for the first second from starting up could I hear a loud rattle that soon died off. Now that I've got a new engine I know how it should sound like!

There was a date on the camchain cover saying Jan 17 but I'm not convinced the engine is that new lol. I think that might just be the age of the cover itself? Couldn't find anything on the main block but i haven't looked underneath yet. It's just that some parts say 2009 and others say 2017 so I'm not sure which parts are new or new but been in storage for years or actually new! Got no paperwork with it strangely but I assume all that got sent to my warranty seeing as they paid for it so I'll probably have to ask them if I can get a copy.