kton200281

Thanks for this - i am not sure though why it suddenly has appeared, i've had the car 9 x years and never had this problem in previous winters. The earthing points and cables under the battery do look old now, and the earth to the battery (mounting on body) has some slight green / white corrosion but its very minor. Usually its just the "ping" sound, esp warning, and then it starts up fine. Next time i turn off (even up the road 20 metres) and re-start, its gone. And wont return that day no matter how much i use the car. I saw posts about some BCM which sits behind the dash or something, and that water can get onto it, so keen to chase any leaks from the front of the engine bay / wiper area if thats happening and what's causing it. But not sure if this is the issue. Appreciate it is hard to track down intermittent things but there must be moisture entering something......

Have done a search on here and seen a few similar posts but with no real answers other than it went away in dry weather. Issue surfaced a month or two ago, a couple of the lights on the dash were lit very dim, and flashed when indicator was on. Then, next time I turned ignition on the ESP error appeared, and engine management light (as a result of the ESP I suspect). Car started fine, and then when turning off and back on, the ESP disappeared. This morning, same issue, hadn’t used the car for maybe 4/5 days, and when ignition turned on (before actually starting), ESP error and engine warning light. But this time, engine tuned kept turning over and didn’t start. Turned key off, back on, and this time it started. I have heard that this could be down to damp / water getting into the BCM. It does seem to happen when it has rained, or been cold and then rained (thus causing damp). I am also not sure if it could be the battery, but it turns over quickly enough, whereas I have had a bad battery in the past and it turned over slowly. Unless of course there’s something else amiss with the battery. Car was driven 20 miles this morning, started up 3 / 4 times when I arrived at work, and no warnings or issues. Sounds definitely an electrical problem but any suggestions on where to start? A lot of the threads on the issues with damp seem to end with no real resolution other than people running the air con and opening the windows in the dry weather. But I can’t worry about this every winter especially as it didn’t want to start this morning and just turned over. Must be something to do with the electrics that control the fuel pump / ignition that didn’t want to allow it to start. Or immobiliser. I have no clue! 😊

Very odd but when I use the indicators the following warning flashes (dull flashing as opposed to bright) any idea anyone?

Already done a carbon clean and replaced all 4 x injectors 3 years ago, so should be good as only done 11k miles since i did that work. I think i disturbed the ball joint that attaches to the actuator when i tested it by hand, as it was slightly misaligned. Since i clipped it back in, there are no more codes so far and not even a pending code (my code reader flags up when a code is pending, i.e. a fault has occured but not yet resulted in a check engine light). So will see how it goes, but thanks for the advice re after market. I'd prefer to avoid the £500 genuine part cost, you can buy a used engine for £1500.....!

Afternoon, Just wondered if anyone had used an aftermarket inlet manifold on the VRS? I have a 2010 VRS 2.0 tsi. I had a code Sunday , P2015, which may be a result of me operating the vacuum actuator arm by hand the day before (to check it was moving freely) and somehow i may have dislodged the ball joint as it looked a bit mis-alsigned when i checked it when the code came on so i unclipped the ball joint and re-seated it. I have cleared the code and its not come back on since, but am pre-empting needing a new inlet manifold at some point as i am on the original version with 80k miles. The genuine part is over £500 at TPS, so am keen to explore the aftermarket options. I heard Vaico are meant to be a reasonably reputable manufacturer, but there are mixed reviews on anything non-OEM. Clearly i'd rather not install an aftermarket part that cost £150 and find it fails / throws an error code, but that said would be comfortable to take a punt on it vs a £500 OEM part! thanks

Maybe it is the sensor? I didn't realise the inlet manifold was servicable, thought that code meant you need a new inlet?

Don't despair, pothole can't be helped, and any used car won't be without its faults. Just give it a little time and decide once you've owned a bit longer if you like it enough to keep it

Sounds just the same as mine, 2010 vrs. Nothing unusual about the Injectors and tappets being that loud, just the way they are. I'm just hoping to find a resolution to the slight shake at idle that happens sometimes, no change in rpm, just a bit of a misfire type feeling thru the seat and car. Has done it for 4 years though so not sure I'll ever get to the bottom of it,

It's not mileage related, please check the sticky thread on 1.8 and 2.0 tsi engine failures. I had my tensioner replaced at 48k miles, as a precaution. Only had the tensioner done and was £280 at an independent. However it wouid be more sensible to do both chain and tensioner as the chain does have a new design too. Please re the sticky, you'll see folks that have thought it woukdnt fail and then come back to report they wish they had it done sooner

I have replaced 2 injectors in the last 2 x months, one failed, then another one, so replaced them all when the last one went so i have 4 new ones. I have had 3 get stuck open and fail in the last 2 x years hence they are all now replaced. The first time one got stuck open i had to drive 4 / 5 miles afterwards and was smoking and smelt strong of fuel but that was 10k miles ago. This last time i was lucky and stopped after 30 seconds at the side of the road. Anyway all is back together, and have done 160 miles since i replaced them. However whilst there are are no engine codes, it runs fine through the rev range, i can't help but feel like something is holding it back at approx 2k rpm. It is a strange sensation, there is no hesitation, but when i sort of sit at a stable speed at low revs it as if someone puts the handbrake on slightly, like it is being restricted. It isnt noticable to a passenger. Now i thought maybe the cat got melted with the extra fuel dumped in the exhaust, and it is causing back pressure or something but it revs ok and doesn't seem to affect performance. No engine lights. The only thing i did do was run the engine with the rubber hose off the throttle body during the test drive as i forgot to tighten up the clamp and went out in it and had a terrible drive and eventually the pipe came off and it kept stalling when the throttle body butterfly opened. That was an easy remedy and all has been ok other than that strange holding back sensation but only sometimes. Any suggestions would be welcome!

Hi, nothing should be attached to that outlet - i have the same engine, it is the inlet mainfold you can see on the front of the engine. The wetness on the bell housing could be oil as i also have a bit on mine - although never investigated it and the photo isn't great. Not sure re the fuel smell, but am sure someone more knowledgeable will be along soon. There is a high pressure fuel pump (if you pull off the engine cover it sits on the right hand side as you face the engine) i believe, it has a black hose i think coming out of it so maybe it is that that is perished?

Sounds just like mine, i have identical engine. In fact i'd say yours idles a bit smoother, there is a slight shake to my engine whilst idling when its hot - yours doesn't seem to do that, unless it was cold.

Lift the bonnet and record it, might be clearer then. The obvious ticking is the evap valve, front left hand site connected to the inlet manifold - that is what you can hear, but there is engine noise over that but is hard to say how loud it is.

Sounds exactly like the injector failure i had on my car - identical engine. And i had the same problem, it started misfiring, engine judder and EPC light / EML on. Turned it off, and a few mins later back on - it started ok. Drove 80 miles - made it home. Went out next day, few miles down the road, same issue, engine judder, smoke from exhaust etc. Same fault code - took to independent who replaced injector (cylinder 2 as well). Hope this helps.

I didn't get the cover replaced, depends how careful the mechanic is taking it off - i had mine done 3 x years ago, no problems with just having the tensioner done