POWYSWALES
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Posts posted by POWYSWALES
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My 2016 dsg got its first service at 18,000 and it was noted the pads had less than 10 percent wear, I asked was that good going and the tech person told it is how they mainly judge how a car has been treated and the people with low brake wear are usually the ones achieving good mpg. A friend of mine has a Audi and every 25,000 has to have the pads changed, but I am not surprised, even a very slight bend that you can clearly see around, foot on brake and drops down a gear, the same slight bends I just back of the accelerator going into the bend and then accelerate out including when I drive my wife's Dacia which I will happily keep in 5th gear if I can keep the speed above 45mph.
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I got a Brink fixed tow bar with dedicated electrics, supplied and fitted for £245 @ sallop towing in Shrewsbury. It was only 7 pin electrics but that was all I need for my erde trailer and pre 2000 bailey caravan. I put my bike rack on the erde trailer when camping, or inside the caravan when touring.
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Had enough of motoring costs now, why I do like my Octavia my next car will be a 1.0 litre Dacia Logan in basic trim at just over £7k. Don't need air con and never bother with the radio and will just go back to having a Garmin sat nav. Cheap reliable motoring, would rather spend the money on my family from now on, friends have the Dacia sandero at £5995 OTR, drives okay and gets them from a to b cheaply.
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When I got my towbar fitted by scallop towing in Shrewsbury they gave me the crash bar back. Mine was a fixed brink towbar with dedicated wiring.
Maybe you could ask your dealer if they have one you could have they have that they recently removed from a other towbar fitted car, especially since they kept the one belonging to your car, would not surprise if they sell it as a new part as mine still looks brand new, guess being hidden behind the bumper keeps it protected and clean.
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1 hour ago, AwaoffSki said:
1,500kg braked, 610kg. with 115ps
If you want to know max gross / unladen etc from hatch or estate just google them.
That is very impressive for 1.0 even if it is turbocharged.
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Would be interesting to know the towing weight with the 1.0 engine, I am sure it is capable power wise but would feel harsh making the small engine pull a 1200kg Caravan with a family of 5 plus luggage.
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Slightly different being a day but my car gets itself in 7th hear from 43mph and above, assuming that is one of the reasons I can get well over 60mpg on a daily basis, plus very little braking as always keep a good few seconds distance from the car in front.
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1 hour ago, JohnnyType2 said:
was it removeable? how do you find it, pros/cons? still working out whether to go for a westy or a more generic removable one?
Hi, It is fixed but I find it great for my use, either pulling my 1100kg caravan or my erde 143 trailer full of camping gear. Been fitted for 10 months now and all works as it should, so for example you select reverse and it comes up with a trailer symbol and disables the reverse sensors. They also handed me back the rear crash bar they removed to fit the tow bar as the brink kit came with its own crash bar.
Also if it helps direct towing in wrexham quoted £260 and was recommended by my Skoda dealer in Oswestry, obviously never used them so can not say how good a job they would have done compared to sallop towing.
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Hi, had my car just over 15 months and a few days ago the car display started saying replace key fob battery, On my past new cars (Hyundai) the key fob batteries lasted several years and never had to replace one before as sold the car by then, I thought they would at least last 3-5 years, anyway are they easy to replace?
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If it helps I paid £240 for a brink fixed towbar supplied and fitted at sallop towing in Shrewsbury, included dedicated wiring kit. This is on a late 2016 Octavia sport.
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Not sure if this is any help but maplin are selling nextbase dashcams at great prices, I got halfords to price compare on the 112 and 212 models.
Also if you can find stock they have micro SD cards at good prices. http://www.halfords.com/cycling/cycling-technology/helmet-cameras/toshiba-32gb-micro-sd-card?_$ja=kw:drytinder|tsid:40392&cm_mmc=Affiliates-_-PerformanceHorizon-_-drytinder-_-TopLink
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I have put 25,000 on my 2016 Octavia diesel and have never seen the regen light come on, Does it only illuminate if there is a fault or after a couple of regen attempts that have failed to complete, I guess if it is just a case that the light has come on because the car has only had several short journeys lately why stuck with the dealer then it is nothing to worry about.
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Thanks bigade1 works great, is there a way to make the audible alert louder without making all nav directions volume etc increasing?
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Diving for 23 years and it is only in my Octavia that I have had windscreen damage, stone cracks it last year so needed full replacement and a few days ago a small stone hit the centre and put a nice chip in the screen. Seems to be the smaller stones that do the most damage. Had plenty of stones hit my windscreens in previous cars but it makes me think the octavia windscreen is vulnerable to stone impact.
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I have had both the Fabia dsg and now Octavia 1.6 dsg, put 20,000 miles on both. Total pleasure to drive. I know some will say you need to be thinking about future taxation of diesel, but from what I understand diesel is a by product of refining oil, as they put people of owning diesel cars there were be less demand, it would not surprise me that despite the governments threats against diesel cars that the cost of diesel drops below petrol, supply and demand is what drives prices.
Another plus for me with the diesel is economy, I can easily achieve 65+ mpg. And the fuel range is a good 125 miles plus over the petrol version. My refill range is normally around 595 miles till empty.
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Not sure about the petrol but in the diesel with economy or normal mode, it gets up the gears fairly quickly and will change to E7 or D7 as soon as 42mph. I am sure your dsg will be making good use of the gears based on what mode you are in and how you are driving, could it also be that when the car is in 2 cylinder mode that being in E7 to soon would actually be less economical, a bit like when an engine is labouring and you would be better to dropping down a gear, I think that is why many dsg models are more economical than the manual versions, as the dsg knows what is the best gear to be in for best economy or to give more torque for heavy acceleration.
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Took my car to skoda on Monday to have the cruise control looked at, on the drive there the hazard symbol was showing again but I had to stop for fuel and on restarting it was working again, they checked the car for a fault code and the only one was a air conditioning voltage drop, reset it and took the car for a drive and done a few ignition on/offs to try get the fault to display which it did not, I doubt the air con was to blame but you never know, problem with it being intermittent fault is getting it to show the problem why at the dealers. They just said any more problems to contact them. Will just have to see if the fault has gone or not but I will be suprised if it has.
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1 hour ago, TTodorov said:
@AwaoffSki, thanks! Sounds explanatory.
@Tim1631, it's not only this point. What I've tried to say and said is that 1.4 has advantage almost in every aspect
But will the 1.4 petrol engine get to 400,000 miles plus that many taxi drivers have got out of there diesel models?.
The government may well be saying there going to have a war on diesel cars which is putting many people off diesels, but diesel is a by product of refining crude oil so rest assured that as the demand for diesel drops so will the price. I give it about 3 years till diesel starts getting around 10p per litre less than petrol, and that will increase till we see oil burners eventually replaced with more electric and other alternative fuel cars. Petrol and diesel cars are not going to be phased out because of there impact on the enviroment but because oil reserves are drying up, we have exhausted the easy to get to oil reserves, hence why we are seeing many countries turning to extracting fuel from coal which is very energy demanding compared to extracting crude oil.
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3 hours ago, BigEjit said:
Could even be related to the brand of oil used by the dealer during the service.
I had an Leon Cupra R for 6 years, the only time the oil light illuminated was after a service when the Dealer used a cheaper brand name oil after i forgot to take my own, changed it back to Castrol edge and never used a drop afterwards. It didn't use any before either.
This could well be a good point, many car service centres buy oil in large 45 gallon drums costing around £1000 or more for some of the better quality grade oils, and many car dealers that own these places would sell there own gran mother, I would know as I worked for a few in the past. How can you be sure they are willing to buy in quality drums of oil costing around £1000 plus when they could possibly get a budget costing less than £500. That as far as there concerned will get you past the warranty period, the fact it will reduce the life of your engine will not be there problem and could well be to there advantage a few years later when you bring your car in fir repair because of the advanced wear.
I guess another problem is that although engines are now built to better tolerances, oils are getting thinner making it more likely to seep past any piston rings or valve guides that are not perfectly bed in or within tolerances.
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My old 1.3 felica had the quickest to warm up heaters I have ever known, within quater of a mile or less than 1 min of driving it was throwing out hit air even in winter after standing all night. It used to baffle me how it could possibly warm the water and get it to the heater matrix that quick.
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My drive use to slope inwards towards my property, so on my previous manual cars I always put it in first gear, never taking any chances as my children and dogs could have been playing around the car. I especially learnt to do this as on a Hyundai I had in the past, you would apply the handbrake firmly but sometimes within a second or 2 it would drop down a notch were it must not have quite made it into that higher ratchet setting.
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1 hour ago, Robertino said:
Booked in this Thursday at Skoda. Guys said "if you read a manual, it says it can consume 1L for 1000 miles". I wasn`t having any of that, its been fine for 20 000 miles, now suddenly 440ml in 7 days time. Let`s see what they find.
So he is saying it could be considered normal for the engine to consume a gallon of oil within 5000 miles, that would work out expensive between oil changes. A few years ago I had a work colleague who after many years of working hard decided to treat himself to a brand new £20,000 pound peugeot convertible, not sure of the model but it was consuming something like 1 litre every 1000 miles, the dealer refused to remedy the car as it was stated in the manual it could be considered normal to consume x amount of oil every 1000 miles, he liked the car but could not accept that he had to keep topping up the oil and so got rid of the car within a year, at quite a few thousand loss.
My 1.6 tdi has just had a service at 18,000 miles and the oil stayed on the max mark right up until the service, the only thing I needed to top up once was the water, with about 200ml if that. I don't think I would even be happy even if I was topping up 1 litre between between oil changes, as I never had to do that on past cars which were a mixture of hyundai, daewoo, skoda and rover.
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Octavia diesel 430,000 miles and still going strong
in Skoda Octavia Mk III (2013 - 2020)
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Take it you have seen the latest one were he is kitting it out with vrs interior and getting it resprayed.