9fingers

Having used a code reader, there were a couple of stored codes relating to low battery. The car has never failed to start or indeed been slow to turn over but I've given the battery a charge after several cold start low mileage trips and cleared the low voltage codes. No further problems since. Battery is 8+ years old so might need a periodic charge to keep it going longer. Bob

Thanks for the info. I might look out for a spare cap or put a schrader valve in my cap and just take out the valve core when I want to vac it out. Bob

Where does the vacuum pump connect. Ive got an old laboratory vac pump i could use but need to make up some sort of adaptor to connect it. just remember ive got one of those oil change vac pumps that might be better to try. thanks Bob

Sometimes when I start the car (Octy3 my2016) I get warnings about ACC and Front Assist however car behaves and drives normally. See photos. Do I need to be concerned or is that normal. Usually happens immediately after a cold start. Thanks Bob

Thank you for your time and help tunedude. The manual you linked me to has an extra 59 pages compared to mine I wonder what else I can learn about 😄 Only had the 5 years!

Thanks but my owners manual has no glossary and the section on keys makes no mention of adding new keys I must have the budget version of the manual🤣 My enquiry was on based on curiosity especially as other threads here say it can't be done but my spare key is back working now anyway Bob

I've been trying to find the section in the user manual that given the method of re-programming the car to accept another key with no luck Ive done a wordsearch for "key" and "additional" No luck with the infotainment Amundsen manual either. Any clues where to find it please TIA Bob

OK well here is what i did to make it work. WARNING:: NOT FOR THE FAINT HEARTED !! Firstly I gently bent the battery contacts to make those tighter. Fitted the battery and still no red light. YouTube provided this Remove T6 screw and the keyring loop slides and pulls off. Remove the keypad button legend. Then the side of the fob case can be prised off. Following the video carefully the two parts of the case that are glued together can be separated be prepared to catch the key spring and button. I did split the plastic a little but that part gets covered up on re-assembly. I gave it a good look round -I'm used to working with electronics. I powered the circuit board up and the red light came on Woo Hoo! Carefully put it all back together and it is 100% working again. Something must have been dislodged and realigned?? or something else? Bottom line is I got a result but with a few brown trouser moments and a lot of care and minimal force. The key was no good when I started and I had a 50-50 chance it would be no good when I was done but at least I'd tried but pleasantly surprised with a good outcome. To anyone following this route all I can say is take great care and only proceed once you have tried everything else first. Good Luck Bob

No red light and no radio frequency output. I’ll investigate the battery contacts next.

My rarely used spare keyfob is not working the central locking but will start the engine. I have replaced the battery. Using a radio analyser, i can see there is no 435Mhz transmission from the key. First Question, if I buy a used key on ebay, is it possible to recode the central locking to accept the new key. Does this need VCDS (which I don't have) or is there a simple process i can use instead. Second question: can I recode the car to accept the transponder in the replacement and does this need VCDS or not Thanks Bob

Thanks!

Thank you for a very generous offer. PM sent. Bob

I expect to be keeping my Octy3 for as long as possible and so far have had 4 trouble free years and not needed to connect up to the obdII port for anything serious. Yesterday I needed to take the from passenger seat out to carry a long load and have tripped the airbag light so I need to reset that and there will be likely be more things in the future. I'm now doing lower mileage than ideal for a diesel and getting the DPF warnings - so far fixable with a high revs run up the motorway but could need to force a regen in the future Has anyone got a iCarsoft VAWS2.0 (£150) and can compare it to the VCDS (£225) Clearly lots of VCDS fans here but need I spend that much? Will the VAWS do the DPF regen? Thanks Bob