Filternz

I have a New Zealand spec mk4 VRS in the UK, I can't get access to the UK maps, when I enter the VIN it only offers up Australian and New Zealand maps. Anyone fancy messaging me with their VIN (of a UK car) so I can't download the UK maps please

I used the Focal 4.320 amp with Flax focals, sounds terrible. The incoming signal is EQ’s for the OEM speakers. I used Focals and Match 8 on BMW G20 (Match 6 is fine for Skoda) and equalised the incoming signal and tuned by ear with some basic tutorials and it was awesome. Short version - Match is the way to go for easy integration and ability to sort de-EQ the incoming signal easily then tune.

Only do it if using stock speakers. Otherwise you need an amp with DSP, the incoming head unit signal is heavily equalised / tuned to the OEM speakers. I have with AMP with super fancy Flax Focal drivers and it sounds worse than OEM.

Where did you get your tow ball from in NZ? Any pics? Gazley's seem clueless.

@maf08 I has the exact same errors on it when I test drove. When I picked it up new, they said they had replace the camera / module. It works fine for 2-3 weeks. Now it just goes blank 50% of the time, randomly, sometimes in the middle of backing, but I don't get any errors like it orginally did. just does blank. It's booked in this Monday for a FW updated and to be checked out.

You lost me there. What speakers did you install, and do you have the basic (non-canton) system? And you're running an Axton DSP amp and sounds decent? Biggest issue with my setup is the factory HU doesn't seem to push any deep lows, and the mids from the front are so hollow and harsh sounding have the EQ at -9!!! House, pop, rap, all sound okay, anything with with a lot of clean vocals or rock music is bad. I wonder if the Focal 4.320 AMP is just crap, and I need a better DSP amp. Also, I'm curious how the audio shop wired it up. The sub is active, and the ample is only 4 channels, so who knows where they took a feed for the amp form. Might see if the AMP has any settings I can play with, or running the new speaks of the HU only (expect the sub which has it's own amp). For now I've just been putting up with it. AMP: Focal 4.320 AMP FRONTS: Focal PS165 Flax Evo components (inc passive crossover) REARS: FOCAL IS165 co-ax SUB: Cerwin Vega UPAS12ST 12" Active sub

I see it's a common issue on the mk8 GTI, but their camera part is part of the rotating VW logo. When I test drove my 22 Octavia VRS Estate, the reversing camera never worked - they said it was odd because 'it was working yesterday'. Nonetheless they had to fit a new part/module before I took delivery to get it going. Now, with 3000km on the clock, it intermittently doesn't work, and when it does it flickers. Anyone had this issue? Was there a resolution? Are the camera's frying themselves? surely I can't need a 3rd one, and if I get a 3rd one, I have no confidence it'll last; the mk3 EA888.3 waterpumps come to mind.

Thanks for the awesome replies. A little over my head - but I do have a simple question. Getting a second amp and going active setup and removing the cross-overs, then getting it tuned should yield the best result, yes?

Great reply thanks. I think you’re right re: dynamic eq. The little Focal amp seems to crack. I don’t listen to it loud at all, I just wanted well rounded decent sound and a modest volume. Was thinking a helix 6channel dsp in front of the focal amp, change the focal amps 4 channels RTX just drive the front doors and tweeters in an active setup. Power the rears for fill off the HU, and get tuned.

Ooo! How? Is it easy? Neighbour has an Audi R8 and does a bunch with vagcom. If I can get a flat-eq line level output that could save a word of pain and cost. I think one of the other responses is correct; it has dynamic eq.

my 2022 Skoda Octavia VRS base stereo upgrade experience to date. circa 3k NZD AMP: Focal 4.320 AMP FRONTS: Focal PS165 Flax Evo components (inc passive crossover) REARS: FOCAL IS165 co-ax SUB: Cerwin Vega UPAS12ST 12" Active sub Plus cables, amp kit, professional install etc. I'm not sure where the shop took the audio feeds from / how it was installed but it sounds like a mish-mash of good quality components that just don't come together well... almost worse that stock. My guess, the speaker-level outputs have some EQ on them to make up for cheap OEM speakers. Lack of a clean, flat, line-level output makes it a case of 'garbage in, garbage out'. I was hoping the HU could be coded to output a flat curve line-level output like I did on my BMW, but don't believe that's possible. Possible steps to fix... Second amp (to enable an active setup and remove the passive cross-overs) DSP (Helix?) I really don't want to have to steam Bluetooth directly to the DSP as I love Apple Carplay, and the beeping for the reverse sensors etc. But it seems the weak link is the HU output. Then... I saw this clip on YouTube, where the guy did the DSP and active setup and it stull sucked. That said, all this guy on Youtube really did was add extra mids (sure he changed / added amps, but it was already an active setup to start with, that shouldn't have been necessary at all) and tuned the DSP properly. My opinion, this Golf should not have needed the rebuild that was done on this slip, but someone competent to tune the DSP. It sounds better because he also steams Bluetooth directly to the DSP and he says there is no way to get good sound with high-level inputs (it's a 7 part vlog, 1st and 6th episodes - skip the rest). Open to thoughts? Other peoples experiences? Pics of install below.