makymak

Back from the past. I've made some research and found that the diagram for the (K) shows that the command to operate the fans is given by a two stage, 3-pin thermoswitch which is located on the radiator. My car has a 2-pin thermoswitch which I suspect is a thermistor that feeds the actual temperature continously rather than on-off. Unfortunately, I can't find a diagram of the (L) version, to see if that module is designed to work with a 2-pin thermistor or a 3-pin dual thermoswitch. If the above is true, then someone has replaced the oem (L) version with the (K) in the past. Where I live is very difficult to find an (L) version, where the (K) are very easy. I have to buy an aftermarket (L) which is hit or miss. I'm still running with the (K) and only the low speed of the fan available and to say the truth, never had an overheating problem even at 40 degrees Celsius with the ac on. But under curiosity, I will order an aftermarket (L) to see how it works. Ps: both (K) and (L) have the same pinout description on their case. It looks like they are identical. I will search it more but no harsh since I don't have plenty of time and the car runs properly.

The connection is dry. Unfortunately, I can't see the body or the sealing except a very small part of it. The secondary air pump and a lot of cables and hoses are hiding the area. That's why I asked about a diagram. To see what I have to face before I decide to remove parts!

Thank you, Pete! It's a single wire sensor.

According to this video, it's straight forward to replace the cooler. But, I have to find out if there is any more gaskets above the cooler, between it's base and the engine block. There is a sensor above the cooler, too (oil pressure sensor?) that is also a suspect of leaking. Thankfully, all the leakage is outwards, so no oil in cooling system neither water in oil.

Sorry! It's a 2001 Elegance. Non of the above diagrams show the oil cooler.

Hello once again! My lovely, aging Octy is sick again. It has an oil leak. After some investigation, it looks like it comes from the oil cooler. More specific, from the upper side of it, where it is joint with the engine block. I hope it's a sealing failure and not the cooler itself. That's why I need a parts schematic. Of course, any inputs will be helpful and welcomed! Octavia 1.6l SR - AVU

No, not really. Never had any symptoms to make me think of a worn out engine. No oil burning, no blue smoke, engine pulls like crazy. On a second thought, it wouldn't be a bad idea to schedule for a compression test since it's a high mileage car. But all the catalyst problems started after the oem catalytic converter was stolen. Never had any problem with exhaust gas and CEL before the theft.

Well, after a year and the problem returned. I mot'ed it and the HC were again very high. The shop that replaced the catalytic converter replaced it again (for the third time) in good willing and again the HC went back to normal. After two months, the vcds showed the error again. Till now, it shows as intermittent (no cel). I haven't measured the HCs, yet to see if they are above the limits. I'm at dead end. Is it possible that three catalysts are faulty? The shop is quite famous at my area. What else should I check?

Sorry for the late reply. Life runs like crazy! That's very good news! So, we both have the wrong module. My car has also (K) while according to vin number it should have the (L) version. My car with the oem/genuine (K) version: - when the engine worms, the fans run at low speed. - when the a/c is on, the fans run constantly at low speed. - can't run high speed, due to the fault/no need to because the car never overheated. With an aftermarket (K) version: - when the engine worms, the fans run at low speed. - the a/c can't engage at all. I suspect that this module is programed to run the fans at high speed when the a/c is on. Due to the error it can't run the high speed so the module doesn't allow the a/c compressor to engage. Both modules throw the same error code. I will have to try the (L) version, too.

@kareems My Octavia has also the AVU engine and the control module with the (K). It's a climatronic version, though. @Breezy_Pete Thank you for your time! You have pm!

@kareems Can you please tell as the engine type of your car? Does it have climatronic or just a/c?

My findings are the same as @kareems No short to ground, no discontinue from ecu to fan control module. If I disconnect the fan plug from the module, the ecu throws an error that the fan control 1 and 2 are either open or short to + No short to ground error. I suspect the error is at the fan(s). I need further investigation.

No cruise control indicator on mk1. Sorry.

Obviously, I'm kidding! I will remove the scuttle panel as long as I find some free time, definitely not earlier than next week. @kareemsyour findings are welcomed!!!

Thank you, again, Pete! I measured pin 7 on the module plug and no short-circuit found. I quit!!!

Too possible the connection is not there. There are the plugs for the harness that goes into the cabin. The green plug Pete is referring to should not be in a harness that goes into the cabin. It must be somewhere else.

Yes, that's what I meen. Strange that there isn't any green connector. Maybe the connector is somewhere else. I don't remember anymore if there was a green plug on my car.

I won't be able to check the scuttle connections before new year comes. If you search for retrofitting cruise control on vw golf mk4 you will find where these connections are. When I find some time I will post here some photos.

First of all, this setup is very rare among the VW group. The majority of the family cars use a two stage temperature sensor (more correctly, a two stage switch) on the radiator and this sensor is feeding the respective module (which is quite plain) Our car has an analog temperature sensor which is feeding directly the ecu and the ecu is giving the orders to the module to operate the fans. If I remember correctly, to test this kind of setup, you need to heat up the sensor or to simulate it's region of resistance (it's a simple thermistor). The control module has all the circuitry, including the fan relays. If you want to test only the fans you need to bypass the module. It's not very difficult, each fan has three wires, one for positive low speed, one for positive high speed and one ground. Furthermore, each speed is protected from different fuses in the fuse box. The green scuttle connector I guess is under the scuttle panel, protected by a waterproof cover. At my left hand drive Octy it is under the wipers motor (I learned that when I retrofitted the cruise control). If you are concerned about overheating, you can hardwire the low and high speed so it always runs the fans at high speed. Too noisy, I'm afraid. Do remember that if the problem comes to coolant fan control 1 (the low speed), the A/C also won't run, as a prevention measure.

Thank you, Pete! I was hoping to see you here! Your help is always useful and accurate. I will check it and report. I will try first pin 7 on the control module, maybe tomorrow, as the access is very easy. But I have to wait for the holidays to go to get into the scuttle connections as it needs some working. Hope it's not the ecu itself that is short-circuited.

I have the very same problem with my 1.6l Octy. Never found a solution no matter how much I searched it. No documentation, either. I tried different fan control modules but the problem persisted. The fans are working ok so the problem is somewhere else. If not fixed, the fans will only run at the low speed. This never gave me an overheating problem even with the A/C on at the hot summer days we have here. If you find the solution, please let me know!!!

When my nephew crashed the Octy, the error was "short to something" don't remember anymore. I'm not saying that this is the situation with the OP. It's a possibility, though. Most obvious, it is just a faulty crash sensor. After a collision, no diagnostics (including the vcds) can reset the crash sensor errors. It's documented in the wiki. Furthermore, if a sensor is coded for a specific car, it cannot be recoded. It's only one time writing to the eeprom, allowed. To reset a deployed sensor or to change the coding you need access to the eeprom either internally or by special cabling to the sensor and of course the appropriate code. My nephew's Octy now has a crash sensor from a Leon. Never gave any problem. Me too, hope not to find out its functionality....

Has the car been involved in a front collision? This error usually comes when the front airbags are deployed and the crash sensor (g190) shuts off the engine for safety reasons. If not, then the module itself has a problem. The g190 is under the main console below the ashtray. Be careful when messing with the srs system. It's your safety and airbags don't react well if not all the precautions are taken. As for the 01329 the wiki describes it accurately.

A little late reply At my Octavia, the dome light switches on by the tiny micro switch at the lock mechanism. There is no other switch. It's easy to find out, push the latch of the lock in the full closed position (with the door wide open) and pull the handle to release it. The dome light is triggered!

My POV Never is too old. The real question is how much it worths for you. And only you have the answer. For me, I like my Octavia. Nothing fancy; a 1.6l petrol. But it works ok for my needs. I have estimated the cost of owning and using it and is in my budget so I have no reason to change it. It's old, yes. But it's trouble free (except some minor problems due to age but fully fixable). I like it so much that I preferred to restore it after a minor accident it had rather than write it off. As long as a car is out of guarantee, the owner must pay for every bit is replaced. So, to replace the Octavia with another used car is leading to the same condition. Of course, if you intend (and afford) to buy a brand new car then it's another story. But I wouldn't, for now. These times we are living it's not clear what the future will bring. All this thing about the internal combustion engines banning is quite vague and I wouldn't risk to buy a car I can't use after some years. And my earnings don't allow me to buy new cars every few years.