TurboTurbot2

I mean I got rid of the Mk1 octy, not the pump!! Actually I am glad to see someone has taxed it for another year. I now miss it.

Mee too: P26F8 indicating fault with aux pump. Orange (yellow?) engine light on. It came on when I took it for a test drive at the dealers. They said they would sort it and indeed I did not see it for 2 weeks, but then it came on again. Took it back to them and they confirmed aux pump, but technicial "had a feel of the pipes" and said it was running OK, then he cleared the fault. Engine light was off for 3 miles. Has been on ever since. I have a long drive tomorrow, but was told it was nothing to worry about. Let's see. By the way, why does it have to have so many pumps? I'm sure my MK1 only had the one on engine cooling duties. (I got rid of that one to escape constant faults - ha ha ha!). Thanks, TT.

Thanks for your thoughts MM. As an update - drainage unblocked and bungs taken out, we are now on the long road of drying out that wet sponge un the bottom of the car. I am on the lookout for a replacement sensor for the airbag. The rest of it, rust patches and all, will have to soldier on until MOT time in October. Then it might be the final curtain. (Just realised, it's an Elegance, not Ambience). Any other comments?

I have a 2003 TDI Ambience with just 150k on the clock. It has had major works over the years: electric system, brakes system, power steaing, head gasket (!), as well as all the usual suspension and breaks etc. The bottom of it is full of water, the drivers-side wing is rusted with the imfamous wheel arch crud catcher problem. Likely because of the water ingress, airbag system has failed. Engine is good, no suspension or break issues at present, but it is now costing in the region of £200 for something every few months. Is it time to sling it and get another? Your ideas welcome. Thanks, K.

Sounds good, J.R. Given the intermittency, it seems very plausible that the one-way (overrunning) pinion clutch is going. Maybe a spring guide out of kilter or broken spring in there (ref: https://www.quora.com/What-is-the-mechanism-by-which-a-starter-motor-drives-the-flywheel-through-the-pinion) It is going to be done by a very reliable workshop (Lauthers, Belfast) on 2nd November and I have said they may as well replace the whole starter system at the same time and look at the pinion and flywheel too (just in case). I will keep the forum updated. MOT is on the 3rd, so they know I need it to start reliably for that.

Thanks, Ken. I got a neighbour to turn the key while I listened in: the solanoid gave a good solid click and all seemed fine (it is a very intermittent problem at present). Given that it only occasionally fails to engage the engine, I suspect it is not yet the teeth on the flywheel / starter cog, more likely the solanoid or plunger don't always work properly (presumably partial meshing would result in damage). Contacts and wiring all seem fine to me, though I don't think I saw ever part. There is a long waiting time for garage services at the moment, so the car will only be used when absolutely necessary.

Hi Folks, TDI Octy Mk1, 140k miles, just had general service, timing belt due (but garage did not have time, so advised book it in for that next). Following the service, it occasionally does not start properly, apparently after it has sat for about 1 h from hot engine - it has not shown this behaviour from cold start (yet). The starter motor turns, but it seems not to find the mechanical load of the engine. Battery and start motor seem fine, but occassionally I have to keep it turning for a long time (>10s) before I hear the engine being moved and then it fires up OK. It is as if the thing which stops the engine from driving the starter is engaged before the engine has fired up. I base that on a) the starter has a slightly different sound as it turns, a bit smoother and higher pitched, b) there is not vibration associated with turning the heavy lump, c) as it starts to 'engage the engine', the sound changes to the one I am familiar with (for about 1-2 s), then it fires up as normal. I'm on my own so I have not been able to see what's going on in the engine bay whilst I am trying to start the engine. I had a search around the forums and saw some things that might be relevant, but nothing very definite. Any ideas? Thanks, Keith.

OK, Folks, here is the official professional diagnosis from repair shop: "it was a pipe blown off". So your suggestions were right - I think it blew at the junction. I have asked them to look the whole system over incase another part is preparing to go (waiting for when I am in a remote location and going for a flight or important appointment). Thanks for your responses. Turbot swims off back into deep water.

Well, I cannot gather enough of it to see green colour, but it is fairly clear, not black as the engine oil is. I think there is no assistance, but I cannot be sure as I never drove it with PS off. If indeed it is PS fluid, then I would expect pump union rather than pipes. Quite a lot came out. I am not with the car now, otherwise I would just have a look at the reservoir level. I was considering getting a neighbour to help by towing me back, but I think it is risky, so I will pay for a recovery. Not today, though, none of them are answering the phone.

My word, you are quick, Phil. I'm sorry I cannot really answer your question because I put it to so little test and as it happened I was just thinking "what the hell is going on here". The pump still works, though, as demonstrated (perhaps) by stuff all over the cooling fans etc.). Engine sounded fine until I touched the wheel, then a sound like a ship sliding down its launch slipway.

Hi Folks, I looked all over for similar troubles, but could not find. I was out today, parked, then decided to move to a better place the other side of the road, turning full lock (slow movement, not grinding the wheels), there was a grating noise, a smell a bit like clutch and something like oil was immediately dripping out the bottom. Any turn of the steering made an awful noise and was heavy. I did not torture it further. On inspection the front of the engine bay was spayed with what seemed to be oil, but I suppose it might have been P.S. hydraulic fluid. No lights on the dashboard. I left the car where it was: not going to risk further damage. Any ideas? Turbot.

Hi Wardy - I did not mean to be insulting about the lost login and your tremendous and appreciated efforts to maintain the forums. Sorry. Just for clarification, though, I had my login details kept in a note on the computer and they stopped working. I don't think people "upgrade" things for the shear sake of it exactly, though you are probably right that many do think that. I believe a lot of it is commercially driven: it is intended to keep us replacing perfectly serviceable cars, computers, cookers and so on. At least I can still get parts for my 2003 Octy and get good help with it from this website. Thanks for that.

I used to be TurboTurbot, but got locked out by new login system here, now back as TurboTurbot 2. And that's kind of the point. People keep fiddling with technology and it gets more fancy and worse at the same time. I really want a basic, tough, reliable car, not all those twiddly, fussy microprocessor gadgets that turn on the wipers and warn you not to sneeze. All those things that switch the engine on and off, regurgitate exhaust through the cat and dip the lights when royalty passes, they are all things waiting to go wrong. I am sure there is a big market for a car that stubbornly avoids all that, and a computer that does not need to be updated every ten minutes and has to send reports into Microsoft or Apple and the UK Government every time you click the mouse. It's enough to make you right wing! Bahh. P.S. is this what happens after the 55th birthday?

Hi Folks, I used to be TurboTurbot, but the new sign-in system locked me out, so I reappear as a newbie. I put Vredestein Snowtracks (whatever the latest version is) on for the third year running for Aberdeenshire country roads (plenty of white stuff). These tyres are really good in the cold, but for the first ~100 miles after they have spent the summer in the garage, they are noticeably less grippy than the sportrack 5s they replace in December. They are certainly better below about 5C and on snow, they are as good as having 4WD (mines not, though I would love a Scout). I agree with Jock, of course, you have to drive according to the conditions if you don't want to appear like the Dukes of Hazard and wear out your winter boots by February. The only times I've had to stop or turn round it has been because a) the road was blocked by others stranded or b ) the snow-gates closed the road (some will know Tomintoul and the Lecht!).