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tanneman

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    Terra Firma

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    Octavia VRS & Citigo

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  1. 2.0 TDI VRS Combi 184ps. 117000 miles and most of it on the motorway. Before lockdown with the congestion on the M1 into and out of London the vehicle speed rarely went near 70mph. Oil consumption was not a problem. Classed as a critical worker I still had to travel to work. No remote working for this sod. With a clear motorway and higher engine RPM the oil consumption increased. ULEZ was introduced and with a car that doesn't conform we swapped cars. The Citigo does the commute to London and when I'm off shift the missus goes to work in it. The VRS still gets used and sometimes it has an enthusiastic driver. Some enthusiastic driving a month (mainly because I leave late to get to my sport pursuits) and the oil level drops to the point of filling up. For convenience I keep oil in the boot. I reckon higher RPM = higher oil consumption and because it is VW TDI it will use oil. Just don't run out of oil. If the oil light goes on I switch to the oil temp display and keep the RPM and speed lower to keep the oil cooler. That is until I can safely pull over at a convenient place to top it up. I have seen above 110 °C when you use the performance of the car. Not a good place for the oil to be considering that turbines run in 600 - 800 °C at over 100K RPM plus you are dealing with a high compression of 18.5:1 in the cylinders at those temps and you would think that oil will be burned. Other things that will contribute to oil consumption is cylinder glazing but that is a problem if you keep constant engine RPM for long periods at a time.
  2. Water pump failed at 116000 miles. Charge for pump and cambelt replacement at my local - £781.20. Not too bad for a car that ran most of the miles on the motorway. BTW, 2.0 TDI VRS Combi 63 reg.
  3. Same here. 3rd set of discs on the front and new pads each time. Only lasts a while and then the warping feel is back. Left it as is. The front suspension has been checked over and all was good. On BMW E46 the play in suspension bushes can give the same symptoms. Use of the car is a 50 mile commute each way with about 45 miles on dual carriage way or motorway. I think the last set is TRW, had Brembo on as well and they all have done it. Will change it again at the next brake fluid change. The 2013 to 2014 VRS models use a bigger brake disc and I suspected that this larger brake disc might be the problem. Looks like the owners on here with the complaint is from the earlier cars.
  4. Fitted the H&R wheel spacers. 15mm front and 20mm rear. Looks good.
  5. All sorted, a very expensive 2 weeks but I'm happy. Apart from the cosmetic damage to my wheels which the garage will repair. Just a note. Pristine had a look and the defects could be identified so that one I'll put down to the other garage having done something strange. If Pristine are good enough for Ian Poulter (the golfer) then they are certainly good enough for me. I can't fault the company as they are a pleasure to deal with.
  6. And the garage scratched my wheels .......
  7. An update. Had the wheels rebalanced and this noticeably improved the vibration. You must have the adapter to adjust for the PCD when the wheel is clamped in the machine using the boltholes. That ensures the wheel is true on the machine. During the balancing it was noted that 2 of the refurbished wheels had defects. One was buckled and the other was running with a side to side movement. Back to Pristine tomorrow for them to have a look at it. My local garage informed me the front discs need replacing. That is what caused the vibration. The reason, the rear faces were not properly cleaned when it was replaced. That and the nearside wheel bearing to be replaced. So hopefully all will be good end of the week after spending more £££. I will be very pleased when all is done. Just the front bumper to be replaced after I hit a deer some time ago. That will be sorted by end of May. Yeh !!! Then the car will be ready for the outing to the International tournament in June and in August.
  8. Before, I waited till the tyres needed replacement for a fresh start at sorting it. 2 wheels had a defect so I got rid of those.
  9. They say that if there is vibration then most likely the brake disc and not worth the effort of setting up the DTI to try and measure the run out in situ. In any case you will have a tough time keeping the front aligned while you rotate the wheel so disassembly is needed anyway for measurement. However, there are 2 issues, maybe 3. This, in my experience with testing stuff, complicates matters because you need to differentiate between these issues. 1) Pristine Wheels/Fred the tread have balanced the wheels but I have a vibration at motorway speed and higher. This I have taken up with them but in my experience VAG wheels needs to be secured by an adapter for the wheel bolts to the balancing machine to eliminate the inaccuracy of the centre hole. They do not grasp this concept so this will be my last dealing with them. The wheels looks lovely by the way. I don't believe Pristine has got anything to do with the wheel fitment. They just refurbish/repair wheels. So Fred the Tread, which I did send a pic of the adapter to. 2) The obvious issue of the vibration when braking. Been with the tech for a test run to try and establish the cause. The man has more experience in these things than me. Diagnosis is rear discs or hub plus............. 3) The nearside wheel bearing is going. A slight humming noise and more pronounced noise when turning right. This will need fixing asap. Front or rear but the vibration gets worse after repeated braking. There you have it. I can burn the ****ing thing down. I have had enough of spending money, £376 for PS4, £499.20 for wheels and fitment, £102 for alignment plus plus plus. FUUUUUUCCCCKKKKK
  10. It is vibration not caused by the ABS. The judder/vibration becomes less noticeable as the speed decreases during braking. That tells me it is rotating whatever is causing the issue.
  11. I have up to now persisted with the ongoing problem of brake judder. Feedback is through the pedal and you can feel it through the seat. I have new wheels, new brakes and pads but the judder persists. At low speed up to about 60-70 mph with gentle braking the feedback is almost unnoticeable, however, at higher speeds under normal, gentle or hard braking the feedback is very noticeable. No brake calipers are seized, no lip on the brake discs, pads in good condition all round. Checked it this morning when the new wheels were fitted. Internet search has come up with a last resort theory of brake pad material buildup but after repeated attempt to clear this so called brake pad material it is clearly bull****. I need help with this. What else is there to do. The garage don't want to do a runout check, I have no idea what the cause is and I'm swearing as I type this. As a side note, it is a 63 plate VRS with the 340mm discs.
  12. That is what was on the card. The car is a 63reg. Does it mean it can be a RN510 and what is the difference? The manual is for a Columbus.
  13. Just get it refurbished. You'll spend that money driving to and fro wheel specialist and the hassle of selling the wheel. Less crap to worry about.
  14. Give a shout if you are after a Skoda tow bar. I've got one. Brand new, never fitted. Also a reverse cam, brand new, never fitted.
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