tanneman

Looks like it is not a serviceable item. Thanks for the replies.

I don't see the replacement of the fuel filter in the service history of our car or in the service schedule for Skoda Citigo. Google tells me the fuel filter is part of the fuel pump. This is a concern because why would you not have a in line fuel filter for a fuel injection system. Has anybody replaced the fuel filter on a Citigo?

To end the saga. Fuses and headlight bulbs replaced, wire repaired under the dash. All the lights are back in working condition.

It is not the light switch. Easy to get to. Just remove the little panel on the driver side dash and you have access to the plug at the back of the light switch. You can slave a new one to check if that is your issue. Waiting on the ignition switch to be delivered. I did some rudimentary fault finding focusing on the head lights. Able to measure 13.4V (engine idle) at the dipped beam and the main beam is working. Made up a wire, connected it to earth and the return of the headlight (brown wire), no change. Connected the wire from batt pos to the dipped beam, no change. Connect LH (the side not working) to the RH main beam ie a dead short to earth via small resistor (the main beam filament). This switches on the dipped beam on the LH side, meaning that I have a current issue and somewhere on the supply to the light there is a resistance. Had a look at the ignition switch. It is going to be a bit of a bugger to get off or I have to remove the lower dash panel.

Some success today. Replaced the H4 connector and female spade connectors. This did make a difference. The RH lights is working, park and dipped beam. LH is not working. Did test the LH with a new bulb but no joy. Suspect the issue is on the LH side of the car. Ignition switch and light switch is on its way. While I was in there I had the battery tray out to check the connection to the reverse light switch - ok. Should have had the car in reverse to check continuity across the 2 terminals. Noted that the "mechanic" had cut tie wraps to the wiring loom and didn't put connectors back in their holders, these were left free to hang inside just behind cooling pack. Rectified that. Also rerouted the aircon lines to run in the holder that is part of the battery tray. All neat and tidy now but this will be undone when the engine mounts are replaced. They are shot.

Thanks. Had a dive under the bonnet again on Sunday. The headlights on main beam works, no parking or dipped beam. The H4 connector at the back of the lights is exposed to the elements and over time has corroded the female spade terminals. I don't think this is the issue but it is worth fixing it. I spent some time trying to clean the terminals bit no joy. I have ordered a new H4 connector and female spade connectors from https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/ and a crimping tool for non insulated spade crimps, Sealy AK3857 (https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000WZC41Q?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title), which will do both insulted and non insulated crimps. Will give the parts guy at Skoda a call for a new light switch (only used ones on eBay), ignition switch and a reverse light switch for the gearbox. Can get new ones off eBay but if Skoda charges an arm and a leg then eBay it is.

Skoda Citigo S 2013 model 139k miles. Full service history and well looked after. Missus noticed that the main lights were not very good when she was driving back the other night. Had a look at it today. No parking or main beam, no reverse and only 1 rear fog light (it might only have 1 fog light, not sure, but bulbs at either end in the fog light position). Brake lights and indicator lights work as advertised. 1st, check the light bulbs - ok. 2nd, check all the fuses (under the steering column) - ok. 3rd, check 12V at plug to main lights to earth - ok. 4th, check batt positive to earth - ok. 5th, check continuity from batt neg to earth - ok 6th, check continuity of rear lights to each respective pin on rear connector - ok. Remedial work, earth to engine block inspected and earth points cleaned. It is degraded and will need to be replaced some time but not the cause of the issue I have. Batt neg to earth cleaned, good condition. Batt positive connections removed and cleaned. All this made no change to the light status. Noticed that the day time driving lights (inboard set) were brighter with the light switch in the off position that with the light in the parking lights or main beam light setting. I'm thinking the switch have failed. Any thoughts at what else to check. Regarding the reverse light. The car had a clutch replacement this year. The replacement was done at a independent that I had been using for a long time but have changed ownership. You know where this is going. The "mechanic" that did the clutch replacement lost gearbox oil and never checked the oil level afterwards, like WTF - Skoda dealer fixed that at next service. The result was a gearbox that didn't shift gears very well, vague loose feeling because of a low oil level. My guess is that the "mechanic" also messed up the reverse light switch. He also didn't replace the boots on the brake calliper bolts, that I will have to rectify one weekend at my cost. How do I get to the reverse light switch is my question? Or anything else to check? Thanks in advance.

2.0 TDI VRS Combi 184ps. 117000 miles and most of it on the motorway. Before lockdown with the congestion on the M1 into and out of London the vehicle speed rarely went near 70mph. Oil consumption was not a problem. Classed as a critical worker I still had to travel to work. No remote working for this sod. With a clear motorway and higher engine RPM the oil consumption increased. ULEZ was introduced and with a car that doesn't conform we swapped cars. The Citigo does the commute to London and when I'm off shift the missus goes to work in it. The VRS still gets used and sometimes it has an enthusiastic driver. Some enthusiastic driving a month (mainly because I leave late to get to my sport pursuits) and the oil level drops to the point of filling up. For convenience I keep oil in the boot. I reckon higher RPM = higher oil consumption and because it is VW TDI it will use oil. Just don't run out of oil. If the oil light goes on I switch to the oil temp display and keep the RPM and speed lower to keep the oil cooler. That is until I can safely pull over at a convenient place to top it up. I have seen above 110 °C when you use the performance of the car. Not a good place for the oil to be considering that turbines run in 600 - 800 °C at over 100K RPM plus you are dealing with a high compression of 18.5:1 in the cylinders at those temps and you would think that oil will be burned. Other things that will contribute to oil consumption is cylinder glazing but that is a problem if you keep constant engine RPM for long periods at a time.

Water pump failed at 116000 miles. Charge for pump and cambelt replacement at my local - £781.20. Not too bad for a car that ran most of the miles on the motorway. BTW, 2.0 TDI VRS Combi 63 reg.

Same here. 3rd set of discs on the front and new pads each time. Only lasts a while and then the warping feel is back. Left it as is. The front suspension has been checked over and all was good. On BMW E46 the play in suspension bushes can give the same symptoms. Use of the car is a 50 mile commute each way with about 45 miles on dual carriage way or motorway. I think the last set is TRW, had Brembo on as well and they all have done it. Will change it again at the next brake fluid change. The 2013 to 2014 VRS models use a bigger brake disc and I suspected that this larger brake disc might be the problem. Looks like the owners on here with the complaint is from the earlier cars.