Racataian

Oil level is correct, I have 12kkm since the last oil change and i did not do anything oil related prior tonthe event

To be honest I don't know how the dpf smells. Mine is broken, I have a black exhaust pipe so I thingk regenerationn does not do much. Anyway I drove 500+km since without issues orn other smells

Will do, thanks!

Hello colleagues, I have a MK2 superb 2011, 2.0L, 140HP, engine code CFFB. One week ago, after 40mins drive to work, I noticed a very strong smell of burned electronics, or ebonite or hard rubber. It was coming from the engine compartment, right side, around the engine air filter. I could smell it even the second day after driving many kms. I checked the engine temp. but it was not very hot. I checked the alternator (maybe the diodes) - 13.7V so I think it is ok. I checked the fuse box from the right side, next to the battery - all is ok. In general I checked with the flash light everywhere I could see in the engine compartment and I did not see anything wrong. Engine works fine, all features work as designed, I did also a diagnostic and I have no reported errors in the memory. Still, I will go abroad for vacation soon and I would like to identify the root cause before and not be stressed because of this. Anybody had a similar issue or anybody knows how to deal with such cases, what more I could check? Where is the ECM located ? Thanks for any hints!

at idle, the temp dropped in about 5mins to just bellow 80degrees and stayed there. The rpm increased to 1krpm but the temp stayed stable at 80 degrees. I don't remember notice-ing this before thermostat replacement, it always stayed constant at 90 even at idle and even at -some degrees. An I can accept it is normal to decrease some degrees but the fact that the rpm increased this means it got into an mode where the functionality is not ideal so I tend to think the thermostat hysteresis is not made for this car, it's too large

unfortunately the repair shop did not mention on the invoice and I did not ask. I know it is not OEM

it is not very easy for a DIY mechanic, at least for me, at this time of year and without an elevator, I would not do it.

Hello colleagues, 1 month ago I changed my thermostat as the engine temperature was no longer reaching 90 degrees. Today, I was driving to work and the temperature reached 90 degrees only after 25 mins of normal driving(There are -8degrees outside) Then, I let the engine to idle for 5min and the temperature decreased to 80degrees and the idling rpm increase from 700 to 1000rpm. For me this does not seem normal. It looks to me that the new thermostat needs again replacement, what do you guys think? How is the temperature in you vehicles acting? So far no answer from my local shop that did the replacement.

That's what I suspected too, thanks !

Well th Well, I understand what estimation means but 20% difference to the real consumption is no longer an estimation, it's an error comming from somewhere. I have been driving for 550km, mostly highway with an average speed of about 120km/h, 3 persons and luggages. To consume 7.6l is not normal and I noticed it now after I repaired my injectors. Before I did not noticed a difference between real and estimated fuel consumption. In such driving conditions 6.2l was the normal. So now I am just try-ing to figure out if the injector repair was not done right or anything else is wrong

Injector data id not used in the estimation calculation?

Hi, I have a superb 2 with a 2l diesel engine code CFFB. I did a long journey laletely and noticed the fuel estimation was 6.4l/100km but the actual consumption was 7.6l/100km, calculated between 2 refuelings. 2 months ago I had 2 of the injectors repaired in an professional shop. Could malfunctioning injectors be the reason? Anybody else noticed so much difference between estimated and real fuel consumption?

Thanks for the answer, meanwhile I have asked 2 mechanics and said I should not worry. It's a bit confusing the information I get on the net saying the max. temp. should be no more than 110 degrees. I have my car for 10 years and constantly I get oil temperature above 110. So the I will relax. Thanks again!

The engine code is cffb. The oil level I checked and it's in normal limits ( a range) same for the coolant level. The outside temperature was 30degrees

The oil change I did 2000km ago with Motul 8100 5w30

Hello, I am driving now in Greece and I have noticed while going up a mountain and lots of luggages, that the oil temperature reached 135 degrees. The coolant temperature was constant at 90 degrees. While going down hill it came down to 115 degrees but not lower. No warning light was displayed in the dashboard. I have seen before the oil temperature going as high as 120 degrees but never above. Is it normal for the oil temp to go so high? I am 1000km away from home so I am a bit worried Thanks!

Just did a check: repair shop says the refrigerant level was at 350ml and he added up to 550ml. Pressures with the engine idle-ing were 10bars vs 4 bars. Feedback was that the radiator is dirty with bugs and the fins are bent and do not cool well enough. First step would be to take the front bumper out and clean the radiator. If this does not improve the situation then the radiator should be changed

Hi all, I have an issue since a long time now with the air conditioning. - the air conditioning is starting only after 3-4 minutes when I start with a "cold" engine. - when I am driving, it works fine but when the engine is idle-ing the efficiency is getting worse, so driving in the city during summer is not nice. I took my car 2 times to a repair shop, told them the issue but they just added more refrigerant - they said the level was not low but they added nevertheless. Lost money and the problem is still there afterwards. What could be the issue? Could it be that the compressor is getting "tired" and is not able to raise the pressure fast enough? Or maybe a valve is stuck on open?

Hello guys, I have been looking for the information on how often the timing belt needs to be changed for the CFFB engine but could not find it. Can anybody tell me where I can find such info? I have replaced the timing belt first time at 115kkm and now I am at 206kkm Thanks!

Update: no DTC is shown on VCDS

Hi, it happened to me several times that after some days spent at cold, the engine is accelerating very slowly and above 3000rpm the whole engine/chassis is vibrating. This happens only until the engine warms up, then it runs smooth, no increased fuel consumption and no DTC. I noticed that I see this effect after 1500rpm, the idle-ing is smooth. I was thinking that maybe an injector is to blame but I checked them a few months back and they were fine. Could the injection pump be to blame? I need to run a diagnostic with VCDS later today...

In the owner manual of 1.8TFSI it is mentioned that up to 1l/1000km oil consumption is considered normal, so with this disclaimer, they get away with it as they did with many other issues in the past(see the first 1.2 TFSI and 1.4 TFSI engine timing failure due to poor design not to mention the Diesel gate). The EGR for the 2.l D it has also a design issue - not many cars go above 150kkm with the original part, some of them fail even bellow 80kkm. I work in automotive industry and I see how VW treats suppliers, how much pressure they impose but only on the costs. This is later translated into poor quality and this poor quality is starting with the design.

I read that the 1.8TSI have a huge oil consumption, even 1l/1000km, keep this in mind

It goes away immediately after I accelerate it a little bit. I noticed that this behavior occurs when, with the engine cold, the idle RPM is at 700. Usually it stays at above 900rpm with the engine cold. Anyway lately I tries to test the injectors with the VCDS and I get for the Cyl 1: -1.2mg/stroke and cyl 3.: +1.2mg/stroke but I don't get the rattle anymore. Are these measured values ok?

it's manual but I imagine the sound would be permanent