cyberkul

Hi! I have removed the cylinder before, and got it out fairly easily. But this time I tried to remove a cylinder at a scrap yard. After almost an hour I gave up. I think I remember that the pin will go a bit further in, when at the correct point. This time the pin stops, and doesn't go any further. Tried a small paperclip, and then a bigger diameter steel wire. No luck. Anyone knows the correct pin diameter? The pin should also probably be stiff?l I want the cylinder for trouble shooting a immobiliser fault. The car throws a immobiliser error when it is cold. Not sure how likely it is that it is the coil around the lock cylinder that is the problem.

The trailer hook has a high impedance interface that doesn't load the original wiring. I had indeed connected the right "foglight" to the interface. The voltage here is rather low due to the PWM control, but I think it still worked when I installed it. I now have connected to the external tail light circuit instead, which has 12V. The problem was a broken wire, which was caused by a splicing clamp that came with the kit for the trailer hook. I hate those, but I still used it.. Thanks all for your help!

I didn't see your answer yesterday, sorry. The weak lights are the same on both rear lights, except that the "foglight position" at right light has no light at all. I don't know if ithey should be brighter. They are clearly visible through the red plastic, and I would say about the same as the two separate 3W tail lights on each side. The ground pin in the contact on the left cluster was burned. Suddenly there were no lights from the left cluster, and the car failed the MOT. The plastic supports around some bulbs also started to brake up. I replaced both clusters from a scrapyard. I'll check today if I messed up myself when I installed a trailer hook. I might have connected the trailer hook electronics to the right "foglight" circuit.

There is only one filament in the stop and foglights. Still they are bright or dim, depending on the fog light switch and brake pedal. Some pwm maybe.

picture is not good, but there is only one contact in the center of each bulb holder

My holder doesn't look like that, I have a wagon. Both are described in the user manual.

Ok, maybe you are right. We drive on the right side, and the left foglight illuminates. There is only one center contact for all the bulbs in the cluster, so there can't be any dual filament bulbs. Eg. the top bulb is the stop light, but it acts like a tail light when not pressing the brake pedal. The same with the fog light. The same with the stop light in the right lamp, but in the fog light position there is no light. There is also two separate 3W tail light bulbs outside the clusters on each side.

The earth connection is common for all the bulbs in the cluster, and the other bulbs work, so I don't think so. I installed a trailer hook last year, maybe I messed up something.

Hi! The right rear light, bottom bulb doesnt work. The bulb and contact is ok. I cant find fuses for the rear lights? The left rear light, bottom bulb glows weakly, and bright when turning on the fog light. Is the right, rear light, bottom bulb supposed to work the same way?

👍

Thanks🙂 Maybe the signal strength from the RFID-chip is marginal if the battery voltage is a bit low? Great tip!

Hmm.. reading again what @Crasher wrote, I now understand it as the reader coil maybe just powers the rfid chip in the key fob, and the signal from the chip is received somewhere else?

Hi! Did you get the problem fixed? I have the same problem. I suspected the wiring to the immobilizer coil, but lately the error is gone if I just waits for a while.

The error came back🙁 It was not very cold, and it didn't help to move the steering wheel, to maybe move the cable to the the transponder coil a bit. The error was gone a litte later when my wife needed the car. She went shopping, and when trying to start the car she git the error again. She tried again after about 30 minutes, and the error was gone😳 So no I really has no clue what the problem is. Is the immobilizer matching with the key in the instrument cluster? Is it possible to use a instrument cluster, barrel and key from a scrap yard? Is it possible in some way to get rid of the immobilizer system?

As I understand it, the coil is just picking up the signal, and would not require any coding. The transponder is in the key fob, and is matched to the car. One day I couldn't put the key in the lock. I dismantled the lock and instrument cluster, I didn't find any obvious damage in the instrument cluster. I managed to repair the lock, and when I installed it again, the immobilizer fault reappeared. I noticed that the wire to the immobilizer coil was ver tight. I pushed the steering wheel a bit forward, and the error disappeared when turning off and the on the ignition. Has not had any error since. I suspect the wiring.

I'll try to remove my own first, to try to make sure the rest is ok. The car cant be used anyway🙁

Thanks! I can still unlock the doors with the keyfob, and I never lock the car anyway.. In addition to the problem turning the key, I also got the "Immobiliser fault" last winter. Only in cold weather (several degrees below zero, celsius). Maybe I can get rid of both problems at the same time😬 But do you mean that it is difficult to get the barrel out?

Hi! The key is difficult to turn in the ignition. Yesterday I could not start the car. The key would not turn the start position. It is a 2007 1,9 diesel estate 4x4. I have read a few threads here on the topic on replacing whole or parts of the lock. It feels that the problem is in the barrel. The key goes in very easily, and feels a little loose. I read that If I turn the key and insert a paper clip in the small hole, I can remove the barrel, including the immobiliser coil? Is the coil the same on different barrels? If so, if I get a barrel from a scrapyard, I can start the car, if I swap the new key blade over to my old key fob?

Thanks! Is the reader coil glued to the barrel?

Hi! According to @Crasher 3 posts further up, the ignition switch would not cause the immobiliser fault, thanks anyway 🙂 I tried to troubleshoot by cooling down the area around the key with cooling spray, but I could not provoke the error to return. I think I`ll remove the instrument panel, and cables, and inspect for damages.

Hmm, is the immobiliser coil part of the main part in the attached picture?

Yes, the immobiliser triggers, and give message "Immobiliser active" on the dash. Fault code 01176 is generated. Maybe this is the correct replacement part? https://www.autodoc.co.no/reservedeler/oem/1k0905865a?search=OEN+1K0905865A

Hi! Yes, it turns over, and runs for maybe two seconds, and stop.

Automatic repair didn`t last 😞 The immobiliser problem seems to depend on the temperature. Now we have rather mild weater (above zero), and no error. The wife said tha car wouldn`t start one day when it was colder.

Took the car for a ride, and the two "new" errors dissapeared! Very convenient to have a car that repairs itself. Strange..