cyberkul

Removed the top panel around the steering coloumn, and partly the lower panel. Removed three screws from the lower panel, but couldn`t get the panel completely off because of the lever for the wheel height adjustment. Can the plastic knob on the lever be removed? Anyway, with the panels loose, the imobiliser error was gone! Engine starts normally. Unfortunately two other errors appeared. The ESP light, and a wheel shaped symbol. Maybe because the wheel height adjustment was loose? Will try some more tomorrow. Wiggling the wiring didn`t change anything, and I can`t see any damage.

Hi! I know this issue had been reported here many times before, but I have not found any "walk through" repair yet.. It is my wife who uses the car, and she have said that the car didn't start maybe two times before. When I checked the car started normally, until one day where I get the Immobiliser active fault. I have two original keys, and I tried both, then changed the batteries in both. Both batteries were good. I have a simple diagnose tool, and it reports "01176 key". The error shows up again immediately after beeing reset. The only other thing I have tried so far is disconnecting the car battery over night. Not sure what would be the best way to proceed the trouble shooting?

Yes, I should remove the cooler first to make sure that there is a crack. Hopefully the same cooler is used in many Skodas, so it is easier to find..

Thanks 🙂 Yes, strange if the pipe has fractured, but there is no drop on the connectors, or the last few cm of pipe before the connectors. If it`s a leaking connector, it seems from the parts catalogue that you have to replace the fuel line with connectors, not just the seal? I`ll clean some more, and try to reseat the connectors.

Removed the plastic cover today. After some cleaning it seems that the leak is from one of the tubes to the fuel cooler. Not sure if it`s repairable, tubes seems to be aluminum. How do I disconnect the black plastic connections from the tubes? Will fuel leak from the connections when disconnected? Is the cooler really necessary?

Finished replacing the wheelbearing today, and the abs-error is gone😀Unfortunately, I discovered a small diesel leak. A drop now and then. It comes from somewhere above the big plastic cover at the right of the car, about between the doors.

Success! Just used a jack to raise the lower spring "seat" a few cm, and was able to remove the hub, and replace the bearing.

I found a Youtube video where they compress the spring. Would supporting the spring with a jack be an alternative? Maybe also a jack under the linkage for the stabilizing bar? I don't have spring compressors that fit.

Great! 4 of my last 8 vin digits: 7802xxxx. So this means that the example picture I posted will apply to me? The last number is larger than my vin. This is the same bearing that Autodoc suggest. Strange that this is labelled as used on front axle on different net shops. Are letters more or less worth than numbers when you compare your vin with the parts catalogue?

Ok!

Thanks 🙂 Very useful, but I find two different rear wheel bearings used in 2007, one with partcode 1T0498621, and another 8J0 598 625. There are a lot of different numbers, F 1Z-7.... on the Group Parts. What are those? I enclose an example.

Hi! From the VIN Autodoc suggested a wheelbearing for me, see http://www.autodoc.co.no/lnk-13460931, but it is clearly labelled as front axle, and most of the rest of the data isn`t right either. The OE they find is 1T0498621. Can anyone tell if this is the correct bearing or not?

Ah, yes I see, thanks!

Disconnected the connector today. Looked rather clean. A small damage to the insulation on the black wire for sensor 1, if this is pin no 3? Applid some 5-56, and reseated the connector. Resat the 00290 error, and drove for a short trip. The esp light flashed when I turned into the street after about 50 meters. Then I drive a few hundred neters to a roundabout, and the esp lighr flad'shed again. Then both abs and esp light came on, and stayed on. Maybe the magnet ring is the likely problem here?

Excellent, many thanks🙂

It's a 2007 model 4x4. I didn't mean to swap the sensors, but the connectors that are connected to the ABS-module. I don't know where this module is, so I don't know if each wire has its own connecor, and if these connectors are the same. I know you can swap the sensors between front and rear, but I have already replaced both rear sensors

Thanks! I wasn't precise enough when I said "immediately", I drow a few meters before the error reappeared. At the rear the wiring looks very clean, and the connectors are dry and no visible corrosion. Do you know where the wires are terminated in the opposite end?

I got a simple diagnose tool that reports that the rear left abs-sensor has feiled. Changed the sensor, and reset the error, but it came back immediately. Where is the ABS-ECU located? Is it possible to swap two of the sensor wires to check if the error moves to the other sensor? If it does the problem should be in a wire or maybe the sensor ring?

Thanks🙂 Exactly my problem. I also got help in another handbrake thread today. I should get a new guide tube, as one of the old ones are out of shape.. This afternoon I removed it, and bent it into shape as best as I could. Not perfect, but I think I will get it installed tomorrow. Difficult to hit the hole near the hanbrake handle, since I didn't remove enough carpet.

I didnt see your (large..) link to the video, sorry. It was the same I found at Youtube. Thanks!

Think I found the video. He moves the carpet in a Fabia, and get access to the guides🙂

Thanks🙂 Yes, it's a 2007 Octavia II 1Z5 Combi (I think..). No, I have not seen the video, would like to. @StevesTruck in a post in this thread says the guides ate easy to replace. It is not obvious to me how they are installed. Not sure if it is necessary to access the closed space beneath the back seat, or if the guides are simply pushed in from the back.

Hi! I have the same problem. How did you manage to reposition the guide tube? I think I pulled it out maybe 5cm. Cant see the end of the guide tube through the hole at the rear console. I didn' t notice the plastic piece at the rear of the guide tube firstly. Watching a video at Youtube they just pulled the cable out with no problem. I removed the plastic piece with a heat gun, after some heavy pulling of the cable..

Hi! I replaced the rear discs and pads on my 2007 Octavia 4x4, and also wanted to replace the handbrake cables. Had a look at a Youtube video, where the cable came loose from the metal guide tube relatively easily by pulling the cable. I tried the same, but the cable was stuck close to the end of the guide tube. A closer look at the guide tube showed that there was a plastic piece at the end with a center hole that was to small for the cable end to pass. It seems to me that this plastic piece was crimped with a metal ring, and possible glued to the metal guide tube. Maybe when the car was built. I used a heat gun, and was able to remove the plastic piece. Unfortunately I must have pulled the metal guide tube out if position when trying to get the cable out. Looking with a mirror I can only see the end of one of the guide tubes where the cables are supposed to come out behind the handbrake handle. So far I have not found any access to the space where the guide tubes runs, so it seems difficult to pull the guide back. I appreciate any guidance!

Don't bother, I found the information after some more searching..