Yeti333
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Posts posted by Yeti333
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1 hour ago, muppix said:
To chuck in my tuppence worth, I just had the timing belt done today by a respected local independent, and it came to £139 parts (belt kit, anti-freeze, brake cleaner) and £177 labour, so just under £380 in total. I didn't think to ask about the water pump, but if they're happy to do the belt without the pump then that's good enough for me.
Which engine?
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7 hours ago, roottoot said:
I do not think that the VW Group make water pumps. Maybe someone knows better.
They are pretty poor at purchasing parts of many kinds for millions of vehicles.
It seems to be how they are always screwing down the manufacturers to sell them whatever to the spec they want.
They are like that with tensioners, bearings, brake components, possibly door seals.
Decades and decades to get things right and they fail. Vorsprung Durch Technik. Move along quickly, not our fault.
23 hours ago, Urrell said:Why change a water pump not showing any problems?
10 hours ago, Urrell said:Take the cambelt off to change the water pump on a 1.2tsi engine?
rootttot
Do you think this is any different to any other manufacturer? They are all trying to save every fraction of a penny, the water pump on my Audi S4 had a recall as it was made of plastic and would split after a couple of years and even after 6 years of prduction they still used a plastic thermostat housing that was known to fail.
Urrell
"Why change a water pump not showing any problems?"
Well if your spending £100's changing a cambelt it would be a bit silly not to change the pump when its right in front of you. No?
"Take the cambelt off to change the water pump on a 1.2tsi engine?"
I've been told the water pump on my 2017 Yeti is on the opposite end of the engine to the belt but that this actually makes the cambelt job harder as you need lock that with the locking kit also!!
I can't figure this out yet as I can't find an exploded view of the CYVB engine.
Why would the water pump would be timed to the engine?
On the subject of EV servicing. I think Software updates will be the next big con.
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I think you've answered your own question if you want the warranty to continue, you need to get it changed.
Its a no brainer to do the water pump at the same time really.
I had my water pump start leaking on my diesel Yeti at 4.5 years old, and had them do the timing belt at the same time because of the 5 year age thing.
Their prices have gone up a lot just lately, I "only" paid just over £400 for the pump and belt about 3 years ago.
I'm now being pestered by my dealer to have the belt done on my 1.2 petrol Yeti, and they are saying it's a fixed price for all Skoda's of £499!
Cam belts are a good money maker since the manufacture's made you need a set of special tools to do the job.
They had btter get the money while they can, because they wont be doing them on the electric cars. (although i'm sure they will think of something to rip us off for)
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Are you sure you had all the correct locking set ?
I'm not sure of the set up with that engine but you usually need to lock the crankshaft and the cams, and then the pulley's
The days of timing marks are long gone! The dealers have done all they can to stop us DIY ing!
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Hi, just a bump to this thread.
Did you do your cambelt?
Mine needs doing and I'm not keen on the £499 that Skoda want to do it.
I've seen the locking set on the bay of E for £40 but do you need all these counter holding tools as well.
Thanks in advance.
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I should think that will be quite a big job, with all the wiring and relays and much of the fitting behind the dash. And you will obviously need to buy a heated screen £££
I know what you mean about missing it as I have one with and another without.
Shame you had trouble with your L&K I Wanted one to get the 1.4 petrol engine. but the sunroof Issues put me off. I ended up with the 170 elegance so I now just have to worry about the DPF and EGR!
Good luck if you go ahead with it.
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It is fiddly as there is very little to catch with the screwdriver. try to lever it to the left at the same time. It will just go ..
There are pictures that may help in this guide by Great Yeti:-
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Just as an extra to this.
I've had a look at my other 2017 stop start Yeti and the battery connection has this extra cable which I belive is the battery monitoring.
The older Yeti (Yausa battery) doesn't have this but My Audi which was non stop start did.
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I've just been through this getting to the heater blower and once before fitting tow bar electrics.
It's caught me the first time!!
Left hand drive shown
It's tricky to get the screwdriver to get the little catch that lets the cover slide off to the left on RH drive car.
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Hi Austin 7
No the motor and fan are upstream of the pollen filter, the air is drawn in under the scuttle at the front window at the nearside corner, then pulled straight down to the fan/motor then across to the pollen filter and into the HAVC.
The rust on the motor shaft looks much worse than it was, there was a lot of dust on the fan, But the car is 8 years old.
I don't think it had ever been really wet.
There was a little what appeared to be condensation inside the motor housing, should have taken more photos.
The motor shaft was just bare mild steel so some rust was pretty inevitable, the other end was not rusty at all and the bearings felt fine, maybe it was a combination of the low battery and slightly dragging bearings that made it fault out?
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Thanks for the reply Langers.
Yes I'm sure you are correct about the S4, sounds familiar but it was about 5 years ago.
I am an amature with VCDS as I said I only use it infrequently at times of trouble!
I removed the blower this morning and by the time I had manoeuvred it out It was turning but a little stiff and it would spin when powered up.
I removed the motor and it did look a little rusty (see pic) I cleaned it all up and applied some 3in1 to the bearings and it felt much better.
Put it all back together and all seems fine now.
Not to bad to get at, removed glove box and one piece of heater ducting, just a bit fiddly to get it in and out of the housing.
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9 hours ago, langers2k said:
This is the page Ross-tech have for battery coding: http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Battery_Replacement
For a Yeti, they would use the "61-Battery Regulation using CAN" version but this is only present on a Yeti with stop/start. If you have a scan tool, check if module 61 exists
Example scan from a 2014 Yeti with no battery monitoring:
https://forums.ross-tech.com/index.php?threads/20509/
Example scan from a 2017 Yeti with battery monitoring via module 61:
https://forums.ross-tech.com/index.php?threads/7267/
Thanks for that.
That's the sort of information I was looking for. It would be easy if I had VCDS but I have to borrow it from a work colleague, and I try to not to pester him unless it's an emergency.
You can appreciate my caution from having to code the Audi battery.
I still have my doubts about the need to code batteries unless you are doing something like changing from old style Lead acid to AGM or vica versa
I only have Carista so I am limited to that for coding things.
Any Idea on the code for the heater blower? I haven't been able to investigate it today as it has been raining ****istantly here all day.
Edit to add found a scan from the Yeti
01-Engine -- Status: OK 0000
03-ABS Brakes -- Status: OK 0000
04-Steering Angle -- Status: OK 0000
08-Auto HVAC -- Status: OK 0000
09-Cent. Elect. -- Status: OK 0000
10-Park/Steer Assist -- Status: Malfunction 0010
15-Airbags -- Status: OK 0000
16-Steering wheel -- Status: OK 0000
17-Instruments -- Status: OK 0000
19-CAN Gateway -- Status: OK 0000
22-AWD -- Status: OK 0000
25-Immobilizer -- Status: OK 0000
42-Door Elect, Driver -- Status: OK 0000
44-Steering Assist -- Status: OK 0000
46-Central Conv. -- Status: OK 0000
52-Door Elect, Pass. -- Status: OK 0000
55-Headlight Range -- Status: OK 0000
56-Radio -- Status: OK 0000
62-Door, Rear Left -- Status: OK 0000
69-Trailer -- Status: OK 0000
72-Door, Rear Right -- Status: OK 0000
77-Telephone -- Status: OK 0000And for more confusion one from the Audi. No 61?
01-Engine -- Status: OK 0000
03-ABS Brakes -- Status: OK 0000
04-Steering Angle -- Status: OK 0000
05-Acc/Start Auth. -- Status: OK 0000
08-Auto HVAC -- Status: OK 0000
09-Cent. Elect. -- Status: OK 0000
10-Park/Steer Assist -- Status: OK 0000
15-Airbags -- Status: OK 0000
16-Steering wheel -- Status: OK 0000
17-Instruments -- Status: OK 0000
19-CAN Gateway -- Status: Malfunction 0010
30-Special Function II -- Status: OK 0000
42-Door Elect, Driver -- Status: OK 0000
46-Central Conv. -- Status: OK 0000
47-Sound System -- Status: OK 0000
52-Door Elect, Pass. -- Status: Malfunction 0010
53-Parking Brake -- Status: OK 0000
55-Headlight Range -- Status: OK 0000
56-Radio -- Status: OK 0000
5F-Information Electr. -- Status: OK 0000
62-Door, Rear Left -- Status: OK 0000
72-Door, Rear Right -- Status: OK 0000 -
12 hours ago, langers2k said:
If the car doesn't have stop/start, then no coding is needed or indeed possible when replacing the battery
Two people have said this now and I would like to belive it but my previous 2009 Audi S4 had no stop start but needed the battery coding?
Maybe the Audi system was more advanced.
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Thanks Trevor, Yes I had a feeling the battery was getting tired, but this week it's bombed out.
Seemed to charge OK but no guts in it today to turn the engine after the first start.
You didn't have any trouble with your blower on the heater did you? (see my other thread)
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Does anyone know if a 2013 2.0 170 diesel non stop start needs the battery to be coded?
I've replaced the original 61ah with the Halfords recommended 80ah slightly longer but fits fine.
Old Varta battery has BEM codes etc on it
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So. Situation got worse today, My good lady went to go shopping, car started fine, drove 4 miles to pick someone up, went to re start the car and wouln't even turn over.
I've fitted a new battery and all is well but the blower fault is still there.
Does anyone know if 2013 2.0 170 diesel non stop start needs the battery to be coded? ( I will start another thread for this also)
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Thanks for the replies.
I will investigate more at the weekend, check the voltage with the engine running and get to the fan to see if its free and if there are any volts getting to it.
Can't imagine the fan not working for low volts with the engine running but you never know. The batterry i think is the original and is a bit tired.
I might try disconnecting the batttery for a while to get the whole car to re boot.
i will update with the results.
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Hi All
As per the title, the heater blower has decided not to work today.
Checked the fuses and are OK
Scanned with Carista and got the above code.
May or may not be relivant but car would'nt start yesterday with flat battery, charged overnite and worked today all ok except the blower.
I think the battery is on the way out as it has needed topping up this winter as the car unfortunatly only does short trips ( I know worst thing for a diesel but we neeed it for towing)
So is the blower due to the failing battery or just broken? any way to reboot the climate?
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23 hours ago, AidanF said:
Control Unit 17 (Dashboard)
Adaptation
Cruise Control Display
GRA High in Display change to active.
Carista doesn't work like that it's pretty dumbed down you just get a list of things you can change "Set dash to United Kingdom" for example and apply.
How does the Galls to refill work It's not showing any numbers at the moment?
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Quick update on this.
Re set to Australia today with Carista, and it was all my fault the Digi speed wasn't showing, I didn't tick the box in the MFD settings
Also set the refill gals but couldn't find the cruise speed.
Paul
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6 minutes ago, AidanF said:
Haven't any experience of Carista personally but know the above method definitely works with VCDS and OBDeleven.
Could be a quirk of carista's coding as you don't know exactly how its making the changes.
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Thanks for the reply, It did the change as the odo changed to km, and I made sure the alt display was un ticked.
I've changed it back to UK now. I'll give it 24 hour's and have another go.
maybe I'll have to borrow VCDS like I did for the last one?
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Hi
I've just added another Yeti to my collection (of Two) and tried to get the large MPH display on the maxidot as I did with my first 2013 Yeti.
And it does'nt seem to work.
looking at the forums and there's some talk of this not working on later cars.
Anyone got a definative answer on this? I'm a bit teed off as I've just shelled out for Carista to do it!!!
Paul
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"Jumbo box" thats a laugh you'd be lucky to get a can of pop in there!
New timing belt at 5 years
in Skoda Yeti
Posted · Edited by Yeti333
The crankshaft seal would be behind the bottom pulley and belt drive so would not be changed with the belt.(I think)
Also 14 months is quite a while later for the leak to be found so I dont think you can be blaming the cam belt change for causing it?
Does the repair price include a new belt and water pump? As even with the last one only having done 14 months ago I think it would be silly to not replace yet again, as the vast majority of the cost will be the labour.
I've got a bit fed up with Skodas rates for their work.
They now quote £500 flat charge for timing belt replacement any model, a smaller local garage that I trust quoted £270 for my 1.2 petrol Yeti.
Skoda also quoted me £100 for the spark plugs to be changed at the last service.
I did it for £42 and 15 mins of my time.