Yeti333

The crankshaft seal would be behind the bottom pulley and belt drive so would not be changed with the belt.(I think) Also 14 months is quite a while later for the leak to be found so I dont think you can be blaming the cam belt change for causing it? Does the repair price include a new belt and water pump? As even with the last one only having done 14 months ago I think it would be silly to not replace yet again, as the vast majority of the cost will be the labour. I've got a bit fed up with Skodas rates for their work. They now quote £500 flat charge for timing belt replacement any model, a smaller local garage that I trust quoted £270 for my 1.2 petrol Yeti. Skoda also quoted me £100 for the spark plugs to be changed at the last service. I did it for £42 and 15 mins of my time.

Which engine?

rootttot Do you think this is any different to any other manufacturer? They are all trying to save every fraction of a penny, the water pump on my Audi S4 had a recall as it was made of plastic and would split after a couple of years and even after 6 years of prduction they still used a plastic thermostat housing that was known to fail. Urrell "Why change a water pump not showing any problems?" Well if your spending £100's changing a cambelt it would be a bit silly not to change the pump when its right in front of you. No? "Take the cambelt off to change the water pump on a 1.2tsi engine?" I've been told the water pump on my 2017 Yeti is on the opposite end of the engine to the belt but that this actually makes the cambelt job harder as you need lock that with the locking kit also!! I can't figure this out yet as I can't find an exploded view of the CYVB engine. Why would the water pump would be timed to the engine? On the subject of EV servicing. I think Software updates will be the next big con.

I think you've answered your own question if you want the warranty to continue, you need to get it changed. Its a no brainer to do the water pump at the same time really. I had my water pump start leaking on my diesel Yeti at 4.5 years old, and had them do the timing belt at the same time because of the 5 year age thing. Their prices have gone up a lot just lately, I "only" paid just over £400 for the pump and belt about 3 years ago. I'm now being pestered by my dealer to have the belt done on my 1.2 petrol Yeti, and they are saying it's a fixed price for all Skoda's of £499! Cam belts are a good money maker since the manufacture's made you need a set of special tools to do the job. They had btter get the money while they can, because they wont be doing them on the electric cars. (although i'm sure they will think of something to rip us off for)

Are you sure you had all the correct locking set ? I'm not sure of the set up with that engine but you usually need to lock the crankshaft and the cams, and then the pulley's The days of timing marks are long gone! The dealers have done all they can to stop us DIY ing!

Hi, just a bump to this thread. Did you do your cambelt? Mine needs doing and I'm not keen on the £499 that Skoda want to do it. I've seen the locking set on the bay of E for £40 but do you need all these counter holding tools as well. Thanks in advance.

I should think that will be quite a big job, with all the wiring and relays and much of the fitting behind the dash. And you will obviously need to buy a heated screen £££ I know what you mean about missing it as I have one with and another without. Shame you had trouble with your L&K I Wanted one to get the 1.4 petrol engine. but the sunroof Issues put me off. I ended up with the 170 elegance so I now just have to worry about the DPF and EGR! Good luck if you go ahead with it.

It is fiddly as there is very little to catch with the screwdriver. try to lever it to the left at the same time. It will just go .. There are pictures that may help in this guide by Great Yeti:- https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_PHfAZM-GYCZmE3ZWJhOTItZWRjNC00NTdiLTg3MDctMjhiNDMxOWRiYzEy/view?hl=en_GB&resourcekey=0-9gAGuZnk-9t5rSphfThhuw

Just as an extra to this. I've had a look at my other 2017 stop start Yeti and the battery connection has this extra cable which I belive is the battery monitoring. The older Yeti (Yausa battery) doesn't have this but My Audi which was non stop start did.

I've just been through this getting to the heater blower and once before fitting tow bar electrics. It's caught me the first time!! Left hand drive shown It's tricky to get the screwdriver to get the little catch that lets the cover slide off to the left on RH drive car.

Hi Austin 7 No the motor and fan are upstream of the pollen filter, the air is drawn in under the scuttle at the front window at the nearside corner, then pulled straight down to the fan/motor then across to the pollen filter and into the HAVC. The rust on the motor shaft looks much worse than it was, there was a lot of dust on the fan, But the car is 8 years old. I don't think it had ever been really wet. There was a little what appeared to be condensation inside the motor housing, should have taken more photos. The motor shaft was just bare mild steel so some rust was pretty inevitable, the other end was not rusty at all and the bearings felt fine, maybe it was a combination of the low battery and slightly dragging bearings that made it fault out?

Thanks for the reply Langers. Yes I'm sure you are correct about the S4, sounds familiar but it was about 5 years ago. I am an amature with VCDS as I said I only use it infrequently at times of trouble! I removed the blower this morning and by the time I had manoeuvred it out It was turning but a little stiff and it would spin when powered up. I removed the motor and it did look a little rusty (see pic) I cleaned it all up and applied some 3in1 to the bearings and it felt much better. Put it all back together and all seems fine now. Not to bad to get at, removed glove box and one piece of heater ducting, just a bit fiddly to get it in and out of the housing.

Thanks for that. That's the sort of information I was looking for. It would be easy if I had VCDS but I have to borrow it from a work colleague, and I try to not to pester him unless it's an emergency. You can appreciate my caution from having to code the Audi battery. I still have my doubts about the need to code batteries unless you are doing something like changing from old style Lead acid to AGM or vica versa I only have Carista so I am limited to that for coding things. Any Idea on the code for the heater blower? I haven't been able to investigate it today as it has been raining ****istantly here all day. Edit to add found a scan from the Yeti 01-Engine -- Status: OK 0000 03-ABS Brakes -- Status: OK 0000 04-Steering Angle -- Status: OK 0000 08-Auto HVAC -- Status: OK 0000 09-Cent. Elect. -- Status: OK 0000 10-Park/Steer Assist -- Status: Malfunction 0010 15-Airbags -- Status: OK 0000 16-Steering wheel -- Status: OK 0000 17-Instruments -- Status: OK 0000 19-CAN Gateway -- Status: OK 0000 22-AWD -- Status: OK 0000 25-Immobilizer -- Status: OK 0000 42-Door Elect, Driver -- Status: OK 0000 44-Steering Assist -- Status: OK 0000 46-Central Conv. -- Status: OK 0000 52-Door Elect, Pass. -- Status: OK 0000 55-Headlight Range -- Status: OK 0000 56-Radio -- Status: OK 0000 62-Door, Rear Left -- Status: OK 0000 69-Trailer -- Status: OK 0000 72-Door, Rear Right -- Status: OK 0000 77-Telephone -- Status: OK 0000 And for more confusion one from the Audi. No 61? 01-Engine -- Status: OK 0000 03-ABS Brakes -- Status: OK 0000 04-Steering Angle -- Status: OK 0000 05-Acc/Start Auth. -- Status: OK 0000 08-Auto HVAC -- Status: OK 0000 09-Cent. Elect. -- Status: OK 0000 10-Park/Steer Assist -- Status: OK 0000 15-Airbags -- Status: OK 0000 16-Steering wheel -- Status: OK 0000 17-Instruments -- Status: OK 0000 19-CAN Gateway -- Status: Malfunction 0010 30-Special Function II -- Status: OK 0000 42-Door Elect, Driver -- Status: OK 0000 46-Central Conv. -- Status: OK 0000 47-Sound System -- Status: OK 0000 52-Door Elect, Pass. -- Status: Malfunction 0010 53-Parking Brake -- Status: OK 0000 55-Headlight Range -- Status: OK 0000 56-Radio -- Status: OK 0000 5F-Information Electr. -- Status: OK 0000 62-Door, Rear Left -- Status: OK 0000 72-Door, Rear Right -- Status: OK 0000

Two people have said this now and I would like to belive it but my previous 2009 Audi S4 had no stop start but needed the battery coding? Maybe the Audi system was more advanced.

Thanks Trevor, Yes I had a feeling the battery was getting tired, but this week it's bombed out. Seemed to charge OK but no guts in it today to turn the engine after the first start. You didn't have any trouble with your blower on the heater did you? (see my other thread)