BazzY

I don't recommend attempting to replace filter without draining oil, you'd finish up with a lot of oil on the drive. Bite the bullet and do it properly would be my advice.

Be sure to use oil to VW spec 507.00. I use Castrol Edge 5-30 LL.

PS. Note that the new filter element is marked "TOP" and is fitted the right way. Torque the cover to 20 or 25 Newton Metres when refitted. Hope this has been some help. Good Luck ! Expect it to be a messy job - wear gloves !

and again.

more pics

As Alasdair1 said. Oil Filter is a cartridge type (not the spin on metal canister you may be accustomed to on petrol engines). It is accessed from the top on this model and you will need a 32mm hex socket (not the 12 point version supplied in many socket sets as these can round off the plastic "nut" on the top of the housing.) and an extension bar on your wrench to reach it (the one I use is about 10 inches long). If I remember correctly you may need to dismount a bracket above the filter in order to get a clear space to insert the filter straight and vertical. There is an oil temperature and level detector mounted on the bottom of the sump. An oil pressure swich is mounted on the cylinder head (probably need to remove inlet air pipe to get at it.) There is a Haynes manual for this model - plenty of the "paperback" version available on eBay, or "premium" version (hardback and better quality paper and pictures) for twice the price from Haynes themselves. I will now attempt to attach some pics from the manual which may help you.

Sorry if I've misinformed on DSG service issues, I stand corrected, but there have been numerous complaints on forums about problems, though of course that could be a few dozen complaints among a million or so vehicles. Can anyone confirm the issue of model change (in whichever market Upsidedown90 is resident) as this may explain his query regarding price difference ?

Hi, I suspect you're not in the UK as trim levels here are not named "Style" and "Ambition", though a bit of Googling indicates these trim level names are used elsewhere and Alasdair1 is probably right about ambition being the lower spec. However I believe (correct me if I'm wrong) here in UK the 2019 would be a Mark3(facelift) and the 2021 would be a Mark4, so different model. Suggest you check this out further before making up your mind. Personally I would have the manual gearbox every time as there are countless reports of issues with DSG if not serviced properly, but then I prefer manual anyway so only a personal opinion. If I'm right about the change of model (apparently in 2020) then this might explain the difference in prices.

No malignant dark forces at work here, just a normal case of "Murphy's Law", sometimes attributed to "Henry J. Sodd", which clearly states "Anything that can go wrong ......WILL !! It happened on Sunday ! only Halfords is open ! Someone at your local Halfords is completely incompetent ! They have the battery in stock (or not! ) ! someone hit the wrong key ! someone else tried to cover it up ! Did they at any point actually check whether it was on the shelf ? You have my sympathy - this is a very frustrating situation. It's another day tomorrow - hope it goes better for you. P.S. In my experience credit card refunds usually take 2 or 3 days to appear on the account.

You have been misinformed of dimensions of Yuasa HSB027, see Halfords website - it says - Dimensions (LxDxH): 242x175x190mm. As for the original issues - yes if the battery has been as low as 8.8 volts or even less it is very likely cream--crackered so you are wise to invest in a new one. However you MUST then check that you have a charging voltage of over 14 volts when engine running so that you know the alternator and charging circuit are working because if they are not then this would have caused the battery to fail -and will kill the new battery before long. Finally - the Charger you mention from Toolstation will be suitable, but if everything on the car is functioning correctly you probably won't need it (doesn't hurt to have one as "insurance" though !

The sensor shown in your photo - at the back of the radiator - is not the Engine Coolant Sensor. It is the Radiator Outlet Temperature Sensor. The main Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor is normally mounted to the cylinder head or thermostat housing. I would expect cylinder head. Mine is at the back of cylinder head but I don't have same engine as you. Do some research for location and look at suppliers for what it will look like. Good Luck.

Do you have a meter to check the fuse ? Or a new or spare fuse to put in it's place ? Definitely you will want to be sure it's not just the fuse before assuming the motor is faulty. As Breezy Pete said the fact the washer still works has nothing to do with it.

Let's not get carried away debating 14.6 Volts vs 14.8 Volts. That's not helping the guy solve his problem. So - to address the actual question . It is normal for a low battery warning to pop up at switch on if the car has been idle for a while, such as 2 or 3 weeks in the airport carpark when you go on holiday. This may also occur if the car is only used for very short trips as the battery has never had the opportunity to fully charge. There is actually a considerable dip in voltage as soon as the door is opened, and more when ignition is switched on. This is what triggers the annoying low voltage warning. However, as Johngerard said above this will result in charging at the higher rate (14.6 or 14.8 i.e. something above 14.4 ) immediately after start up. How long it charges at the higher rate depends on what the BMS/BCM thinks is the battery state of charge - could be a few seconds or several miles. If this is not happening then there is some problem with the battery or charging circuit and controls. New battery was fitted and coded - Did you enter your VIN in your friends VCDS in order to do the coding - and did you enter a new serial number for the battery as well as new parameters ? If not the new code may not have been saved -so BMS doesn't know it has new battery. If the previous owner fitted mods (those LEDs) did he/she do any other changes ? Has the battery monitoring module on the battery negative terminal been removed? bypassed? disconnected? Has coding been changed to try to permanently disable Stop-Start? Don't forget the basics - a poor connection anywhere in the charging/battery circuit will upset the system. Does the voltage measured at the alternator match the measurement at the battery when charging? In one case we had similar problems to this with a Fabia TDi which turned out to be a poor connection of the engine earth strap which had burned/corroded after not being properly cleaned and tightened after the Skoda dealer did the cambelt and water pump. Hope this at least helps you to know where to look ! Goog luck! Please report back if you find the solution so others can find help when they need it.

Wrong. 14.8 is normal for AGM if the BCM sees battery needs topping up.

Disconnect those extra LED lights at least until the problem is solved.