zice

#19 is apparently the MOAF (Mother Of All Fuses)

@roottoot whether it makes sense or not, is not the point of the topic. Guy wants to precondition and wanted to know what effect departure time setting has vs ad-hoc preconditioning via app.

the usual points of preheating battery are: 1 to reduce consumption (therefore increase range) on short trips in cold weather - like city commute, slow traffic 2 to prepare it for accepting higher charge currents at fastchargers @ManosD get an OBD reader, try yourself and let us know your findings Fact is, when you set a departure time (in cold weather): - ongrid: cabin heating starts ~30min before departure time - offgrid: battery starts heating ~1h before departure time and cabin heating ~30min before Example departure time set for 19:15 OFFGRID ONGRID

pre-ME3 setting departure time in app/infotainment when offgrid heats both battery and interior. If car is ongrid (connected to a charger) it won't heat battery, just interior. This behaviour is confirmed by several users who logged data overnight using OBD.

yeah, i do...sometimes though. It's weird. Works fine for days, then all of a sudden it pauses (but track is not paused) for 6-7-8 seconds..it resumes by itself.

continental EU, daily about 35-50 tops. why?

imho Tesla best batteries, motors, performance...but the car built around them not worth the money. much better cars (as a whole) starting to appear, competition is catching up. Gap in range decreasing. Enyaq vs Model Y pretty much both ~300km motorway range, +/- 15-20km. Build/quality worlds apart. No brainer. Supercharger network seen no more as competitive advantage, this is the reason they open it up to others. Might as well earn some revenue from selling electricity while at it. World (a.k.a traditional manufacturers who can really push volumes) has caught up. For me at least, 0-100/0-60 is not that relevant when i look for to build a connection with the car, to make me feel good when i sit behind the wheel and use/touch/feel/see everything around me from that position.

the heat pump makes sense if you drive long distances in winter. For city driving is not really needed. The 2-3kWh/100 you save means you'd charge once a week instead of every 10 days. So a heatpump makes sense if: -you drive at least 50km stretches non-stop -cabin heat set to more than 22-23C -outside temp is between -10C - 0C Even in those cases (ideal conditions for max heatpump efficiency/savings), the gains are around 10-15% realistic in range. Is it worth ~1000EUR? You decide.

get the 80 and don't look back

Hi, can anyone with parts access pls. look what is needed to retrofit the dashboard ambient lighting strip(s) for the EU Loft model? Wonder if extra cabling/connectors are needed or if they are already there... thx!

Please join Freedom if you wish to sell on Briskoda

why do you buy something before reading all about it? It says big in the description: "5. This unit does NOT support your car's Dynaudio sound system."

map update 2018/2019 for our MIB2 Amundsen here: 12GB ECE1 (all Europe) http://infotainment-cdn.skoda-auto.com/base/maps/STD2_1030_EU1_201819.zip 3GB ECE2 (part of Europe) http://infotainment-cdn.skoda-auto.com/base/maps/STD2_1020_EU2_201819.zip Next update will be in November

warped tyre/rim, bearings will rotate on the dyno, therefore they're still in. there's no other way to stay under the car at 100km/h and carefully listen for resonance induced vibrations first stay in the passenger seat and listen...if you hear it then go below deck and try to locate the source. oh yea, besides the engine buffer parts, check also the air intake hose (right at the front of the bonnet). Some guys said if it gets slightly loose, it may cause strange noises.

what i meant by eliminating is to take it out of the troubleshooting process by NOT being able to test it (or be influenced by it) basically forgetting about it (as well as steering, etc) and just test engine/revs/vibrations/exhaust, etc...