StuartA

Hi Remarkably, in the 18 years since I returned to private car ownership, I have struggled to find a garage that I could wholeheartedly recommend without worrying that someone was going to have a bad experience on the back of my recommendation. That said, I'm here to ask whether anyone can recommendation someone in the Exeter area. Doesn't need to be a VAG speciailst but does need to be honest and competent. Many thanks - Stuart

Hi Now that Skoda has replaced the printed service record book that any garage (or individual with a pen) could update with a computerised system, how does the computerised service record get updated outside of the Skoda main dealer network? The old fashioned printed version used to show what the service intervals were and what needed to be serviced at what frequency (e.g. brake fluid change, pollen filters, air filters, spark plugs, etc.). Where can I find this info now? Many thanks - Stuart

Well spotted @daveo138 I missed that. Thanks. If yours lasted 10 years and my indicator is still black, I think I'll get it tested to be sure.

Hi I've always had start/stop issues and put it down to insufficient mileage to charge up the battery. Weirdly, the start/stop works, even from cold. Anyway, could be time to replace the battery. This is what's in there. You can see that the condition indicator window is completely black indicating no issue. Earlier this evening I discovered that you need to code the battery when you replace it so I'm wondering (a) could this be the original (2019) battery or (b) could it be newer but not coded? Also, if replacement is necessary, should I replace like with like (EFB) or opt for AGM? Thanks in advance for any thoughts.

The random economy is familiar.

Yes, and it doesn't. A bit like @nidza's comment that those of a leaden-footed persuasion will be oblivious...

This thought had occurred. I need heavier boots!

Thanks. Not sure when the plugs were last changed so that's something to check. Yes, I have the extended warranty. It's the fuel economy that's the most disappointing as I struggle to get 400 miles from a tankful of E5.

Thanks. My Start/Stop rarely operates so that isn't an issue. I only mentioned it because it seems to work just fine when the kangarooing is absent.

Thanks, that's the kind of thing I'd read, so I'll definitely get onto that. The battery charge level makes sense and that's what I thought until the rare occasions when it works straightaway and happens concurrently with the non-kangarooing and the better (reported) fuel economy. Which is what made me wonder whether these behaviours could be linked...

Hi Bit of a difficult issue to describe but as the car's still under Skoda warranty I'd like to get this fixed. The car is a 2019 Octavia SE with the 1.5TSI ACT engine and a 6-speed manual gearbox. It's done 22,000 miles, fewer than 2,000 of which are in my ownership over the last 9 months. Most of the time, pulling away from a standstill requires considerable care if it's not to result in some, mild, kangarooing. Allied to this, the Start/Stop generally only works after a considerable distance has been driven (around 20 miles). This diesn't seem unreasonable, as the battery would need to be sufficiently charged in oder for this too work (or so I assume). Fuel economy is typically in the low 30s for around town, local rural driving. However, on rare occasions I've noticed that it pulls away cleanly (from cold), the Start/Stop activates at the first lights (less than a mile) and the fuel economy is in the high 40s for the same type of driving. This has only happened a handful of times but it does transfer the car as it seems to pull more strongly too. Due to the low mileage, the car does suffer from the excessive condensation in the exhaust that causes the 'bubbling' noise that's audible on tickover but I don't think that can be related. Any thoughts? Thanks very much - Stuart

Many thanks for your replies. Looks like this is a problem across the range for many years although it never happened in my last car, a 2007 Octavia Combi. I'll have to get down on my hands and knees and have a closer inspection of the door bottoms and seals. As @daftbugga suggests, it does seem possible that the drain holes are blocked when the doors are closed. @Rooted you mention some maintenance guides on drain hole clearance. Do you know where I might find them? On this site?

My drive is sloped and I park facing downhill. Every time it rains, water collects in the front doors of my 2019MY. I only know this because water pours out of the drain holes in the door bottoms when the doors are opened. I presume its getting past the seal at the bottom of the window but the fact it happens to both front doors but neither of the rears makes me wonder if its something else. Has anyone else noticed this or have an explanation? Many thanks - Stuart

Tesla was a company car so not directly. Annoyingly my premiums are going up as a result even though I'm not the 'at fault' party and my NCD is 'protected'. Even more frustrating is the fact that the new car's insurance is twice the (inflated) premium of the old one.

Well, it wasn't what I'd have planned but, after almost 17 years, the end of the road has arrived for my trusty 2007 Octavia estate after it was dealt a literal body blow by a Tesla Model Y that didn't stop when it ought to 😥 Thanks to everyone who's chipped in with helpful suggestions over the years. I'm sticking with Skoda however and will be taking delivery of a 2019 Octavia estate later this month so will be frequenting the forum next door. Cheers - Stuart

The year before (2007), the 4x4 was around £18-19k OTR, so maybe £20k?

Ah, the old switch it off and switch it on again. Could be worth a try, thanks. Will I need the radio code afterwards though?

So, the repeater LED is built-into the bottom of the mirror and failure means a new assembly not a bulb change? For the disassembly, there appear to be two methods: prising the outer housing off or taking out the glass and removing Torx screws - is one to be preferred over the other?

I'm beginning to think the 5W5 bulb is for the puddle light and that the indicator is a built-in LED necessitating the replacement of the bottom of the mirror. 😭

Yes, I think just the bulb. These look right https://smile.amazon.co.uk/BOSCH-12V-5W-W5W-Bulb/dp/B085NWQGRF/ref=sr_1_1?crid=AM95RA7IOJC5&keywords=w5w+12v+5w+bulb&qid=1668626543&refinements=p_89%3ABosch&rnid=1632651031&s=automotive&sprefix=w5w+12%2Caps%2C91&sr=1-1 but they need to be orange. 😫

Just nipped out for a look and this doesn't look quite right. Here's mine. Sorry, it's dark out there...

This is the thing. I assumed (it appears, in error) that a failed bulb meant a new unit but looking at the exploded diagrams above it looks like you can simply replace the bulb. Still a "mirror glass off" situation but significantly cheaper.

If I've understood this correctly, the PR code 7R7 denotes that the item includes the puddle light - is that right?

This shows a separate bulb so not a sealed unit after all. 🤔

It's TMBGB61Z972...