StuartA

Hi Does anyone know the part no. (or where I can look) for a left-side (NS in RHD markets) indicator repeater with puddle light. I understand this is a combined unit. Many thanks.

Just checked the wires in the NSF bellows and they all look fine too.

Hi Pete Sorry, I must've missed the earlier reference to the NSF so will be checking this tomorrow. I didn't know that the rear doors aren't on the CAN bus. Does that mean that OBD2 devices won't detect an issue there/ I may have that completely wrong. Yes, it's a complete guess based on the lack of action at the door. Not very scientific I'm afraid. Cheers - Stuart

Thanks. In the end, I couldn't find a problem with the wiring here.

I suspect you're right 😟

Sadly, they both use the same fuse and the right-hand door is working just fine. Having had a further (more thorough) look today, there is definitely nothing amiss with the cables in the bellows. Thinking back, the window in that door initially wouldn't single-shot down or up and then stopped altogther. To me, this suggests a breakage somewhere so perhaps inside the door? Any tips on removing door card without breaking it would be very welcome.

I'm going to take another look inside the bellows tomorrow. I did find, in the Owner's Manual (p49), reference to an emergency locking mechanism and how to activate it. Less clear is how to deactivate it (unless, of course, it's automatically deactivated when you open the door with a double-pull from the inside. This, at least, will mean I can park without the need for a wall to park 1 inch from.

Yes. They appear to be in great condition too. Pulled back the bellows, diconnected, inspected, reconnected. All appears fine but still no power to the door.

What would the solution be? Connector blocks for the broken wires? Sorry, I've not had much to do with car electrics for about 40 years. And now I've made myself feel old. 👴

Hmm. The door with the problem is the least used of the five and is hardly used at all. I've since discovered it has no power whatsoever. Which, incidentally, is why the alarm fails to activate. There don't appear to be individual fuses for each door. Inspecting the door bellows hasn't revealed any issues, they look like new. Thanks, I'll look into these.

Interesting. Do you happen to know the make and model of this OBD2 reader?

Hi Whilst a few mechanical problems need to be resolved for this year's MoT, I don't worry too much about these and the cost because, having owned it since new, I'm reasonably confident that it's generally sound and you have to expect mechanical wear and tear and be prepared to fix it (e.g. exhaust blowing a little, needs a new wheel bearing and rear shocks). However, my trusty 2007 Octavia 1.6 FSI is beginning to exhibit some electrical/electronic problems which I find a little more worrisome (e.g. NSR window temperamental and now dead, alarm temperamental and now fails to activate). These two faults appeared on the same day, so naturally I'm concerned about an imminent wider systemic failure of the electronics. I'm not so relaxed about these as I once had a Citroen XM which ate its electronics and the repairs were nearly as much as the car was worth 😭 Therefore, I'm thinking of buying an OBD2 scanner, specifically the NEXPEAK OBD2 Diagnostic Scanner from Amazon (https://smile.amazon.co.uk/dp/B078S3GKC5/ref=emc_b_5_t?th=1) and was wondering whether (a) anyone else has bought it and what they thought; or (b) would anyone recomend any other scanner for similar money (around £60). My hope is that this will give me enough information to determine whether 'something big' is about to occur. Thanks - Stuart

Interesting that the two cars with the longest ownership since new are both 1.6 FSI Elegance!

Just taken a quick look in the brochure for this period. The colour is Island Green. The non-body coloured door mirrors and door handles are features of the Classic model. Equipment highlights are that the front windows should be electric, the door mirrors should be powered and heated, standard fit ICE was the Stream with single CD, MP3-capable and 4 speakers, central locking (not remote), and height adjustable driver's seat. For a 13 year old car, the body looks remarkably tidy in those pics.

Something similar happened to my 1.6 FSI two years ago. Luckily, I turned it off, restarted the engine which reset the engine management and everything returned to normal. To be on the safe side, I took it to the garage who cleaned the throttle body and reset it and it's given no trouble since.

@Aston_Bodger For some reason I'd got it into my head that you were June too. Oh well, I shall quietly assume the lead for the moment then Mine's worked its way through discs (all round), anti-roll link bar link arms (both sides), a rear hub and a brake servo pipe. Apart from that everything else is original (bar consumables, obvs). Reliability-wise, the only wobbler was when there was an issue with the throttle body (limp-mode activated) which was fixed with a clean and reset about three years ago.

Looks like @Aston_Bodger and I are tying for longest ownership since new! Sadly, I suspect Trev will have pipped me at the post as mine's rather late in June 2007. This is the longest I've owned any car and it's also the most reliable car I've ever owned, not even a factory recall. Bits have stopped working and I need to fix those but only trivial stuff (I hope), certainly not show stoppers. I'm going to go and cross my fingers for a bit now. Also, it's not often I come across someone with lower mileage for the age than mine either (I've just passed the 79,000 miles mark) but Trev has me beat there too! Sigh

Owned since new in June 2007...

On the other hand, they might charge. I had to pay £18. I hadn't noticed they were out before, couldn't tell the difference after and because they adjusted the self-levelling dipped beams by adjusting the whole unit, the main beams ended up searching for low-flying aircraft. When I queried this, I learnt that main beam isn't assessed at MoT time.

Thanks for the suggestions

Oh. The one I picked was shown to me by the site using the registration mark tool to identify what would fit my car. Are these tools not very reliable then?

Headlight tech has moved on a bit since I last bought and fitted a new bulb (amazingly about 20 years ago ). What would you recommend as replacement items? These are for Xenon units as fitted by Skoda (the type where just the dipped beams are Xenon). I don't do many miles these days and these look good to me as a straightforward replacement https://www.autobulbsdirect.co.uk/d2s-osram-original-xenarc-standard-replacement-12v-35w-4300k-xenon-hid-bulb.html

Headlight tech has moved on a bit since I last bought and fitted a new bulb (amazingly about 20 years ago ). What would you recommend as replacement items? These are Xenon units as fitted by Skoda (the type where just the dipped beams are Xenon).

Thanks. I forgot to say, it's a pre-FL model with factory-fit Xenons and self-levelling headlights. So, it would appear, that when the garage failed the car at it's MoT for headlight beams being too low and then adjusting them, it's possible that's something has gone wrong. I only say this because main beam seems a lot higher than before. I wonder, is it just the dipped beam that self-levels or both beams? The first picture shows just dipped beam and the second shows with main beam too. Is it me or just main beam look too high (relative to dipped which may, of course, be too low now)?

Hello and apologies for what is probably a stupid question. Here goes: are main and dipped beams adjusted independently or is it the whole unit that is adjusted? Thanks.