trabolgan

Hi all - whist just looking for a coolant leak under the hood of my car I noticed the chain cover was being really noisy and vibrating a good'n. The car is a 2011 MK2 petrol VRS with 145k on the clock and I've owned it from new. In 2015 @ 76k it had new engine replacement due to chain tensioner failure done at Skoda on a FOC. What else could this be other than chain? could there be anything else in the case that would produce vibration? I will try and take a video tomorrow in the light and post it - I will be also topping my oil up as I noticed its about mid way between min and max and I like to keep it around the max level as I know these cars need it, topping up the oil may even resolve the vibration and noise - I think that's me hoping more than anything. Anyone local to Basingstoke who knows there way around these engines maybe useful for diagnosing this issue as I don't have a local Skoda garage anymore. Thank you for reading and any comments are welcome.

Update: so today I done a combustion test all resulted negative which is great news for me! I just still need to find my coolant leak. One thing I did notice was a rather noisy rattle and high vibration from the chain case left of the engine block, I turned engine off and looked at my oil levels which is sitting mid way from min to max so I think I will give that a top up and see if it quietens down. Unless someone can relate that to coolant loss and let me know. Next I will be doing a coolant drain, flush with water and coolant refill then add some Sealit liquid and hope it seals my water leak. Its a shame I can't upload the video I took doing the test, its 1.3GB

Good day to you all - I have a owned a white 2011 facelift petrol VRS Octavia since new and recently I had the coolant level light come up on my dash and with that I topped up the coolant level to the max level using the correct coolant. 500 miles later I thought I would check coolant levels and it was close to the min line so I got my torch out and started hunting for leaks or evidence or leakage. The only thing I noticed was a bit of residual wetness on top of the plastic pan cover (right of central) and evidence of wetness on and from what looks like the thermostat (hard to see with everything in the way). Coolant is only lost during driving and not whilst parked engine off. Then yesterday I went for a short drive 2 miles and parked up with engine running, I hit some rev's about 3000rpm and the dreaded white smoke expelled from the exhaust with tiny amount of liquid dripping (mainly the right exhaust pipe) so now I'm fearing the worst. I have ordered some liquid to test for exhaust fumes in the coolant, turns yellow or green from blue if detected, this is due in the next 2 days. She was due a coolant change which I planned to do this weekend so I have 10 litres of G12+ for flushing and filling. So now I am going to wait for the result of the fume test before deciding what to do. I am considering adding coolant leak repair liquid (one that mixes with coolant) if the result is bad news - worth a try I'm thinking.... she is now parked up waiting for diagnostic stuff to arrive. I am also considering buying a coolant pressure test kit (ebay about £40) for further diagnostic to try and find coolant loss if external but will hold off for now until fume results but we have 5 cars in our house hold now my twin boys are driving so it must come in useful if they work okay and create a good seal. I will add updates as I got as I go and some pictures. Have a good day all

otto - did you run a fault diagnosis on your Octavia? sounds like your fault could be a wheel speed sensor issue if your test come back all good, corrosion can cause this - worth a check. My fault codes come up after doing a VCSD full check.

Update - I managed to swap out the hydraulic block and pump only leaving existing electronics module after removing battery, air intake, battery plate. I took out the old unit and replaced with one I bought second hand. Getting the lines back on the new unit was tricky making sure I didn't cross thread. I did have the steering + traction light on but went out on a short drive after the compass found its position, all light now out and no re-programming needed. ottooctavia - sorry to hear your troubles, hope all went/goes well - take it easy and a happy new year all

Hi all - I have the task fitting a new ABS module on my 2011 skoda octavia - at first I was looking at the repair kit below but found none about. Repair kit 1K0 698 517 B Suitable as a replacement for the hydraulic blocks: 1K0 614 517 B, C, D, E, H, J, M, N, Q, T, AA, AB, AE, AF; 3T0 614 517, 3TO 614 517 A and 2K3 614 517 So I decided to buy a tested full unit exactly the same as what's on my car 1K0 614 517 AB - on my replacement new part can I remove the electronics module from the hydraulic block removing the 2 screws in affect creating a repair kit and just replace the hydraulic block/pump? and does this remove the need for programming? I am hoping to get this done this week, the fault is traction control light stays on and diagnostics pointed at ABS module 100% Any advice would be greatly appreciated Thank you

Morning all - I have the task fitting a new ABS module on my 2011 skoda octavia - at first I was looking at the repair kit below but found none about. Repair kit 1K0 698 517 B Suitable as a replacement for the hydraulic blocks: 1K0 614 517 B, C, D, E, H, J, M, N, Q, T, AA, AB, AE, AF; 3T0 614 517, 3TO 614 517 A and 2K3 614 517 So I decided to buy a tested full unit exactly the same as what's on my car 1K0 614 517 AB - on my replacement new part can I remove the connector block from the hydraulic block removing the 2 screws in affect creating a repair kit and just replace the hydraulic block/pump? and does this remove the need for programming? I am hoping to get this done this week, the fault is traction control light stays on and diagnostics pointed at ABS module 100% Any advice would be greatly appreciated Thank you

helpful specification I found for my 2011 mk2 vrs 2.0 tfsi Octavia wheel rim and tyre: for the VRS you need a minimum of 16" rim (due to the size front callipers) and 6.5j on the width Bolt pattern (PCD): 5 × 112 Center Bore (CB): 57.1 Thread size (THD): 14 × 1.5 Aspect ratio: 40 — 65 Smallest — Largest tire size: 195/65R15 — 225/40R18 RIM SIZES BELOW: Diameter: 15 — 18 Width: 6 — 7.5 Offset: 47 — 54

Nice one toot, that calculator is very useful thank you. Sanity check over and now time to make the purchase and the change. Thank you

* current tyre set up is 225/40/R18 on 18"alloys (7.5J I assume) looking to fit 205/50/R17 on a set of 17" steels on a 6.5j - I suppose when I mean meet requirements I mean will the change in tyre size effect speedo reading tolerance and is there any safety concerns being 6.5j on a 2.0 tfsi. I'm just doing a sanity check in-case I have overlooked something stupid (which I do time to time lol.. )

Cheers toot, they are 225/40/R18 alloys . Just to confirm after researching rims & tyres for Octavia family I can only find 7j for the 2.0 engines 170psi - 200psi and the 6.5j 17" are fitted to the 1.8 tfsi 160psi.

Hello all happy new year ! I wondered if a set 6.5j 17" steel wheels would meet requirements for my mk2 2.0 tfsi VRS? They are brand new and off an Octavia 1.8 fsi so the PCD and bolt pattern are fine with an ET of 50 which is also fine. They have a new set of 205/50R17 tyres as well. I just need to know if I can just change my wheels over without hindering anything or too much . comments very welcome Many thanks.

So a final update to the thread... Today we fitted the new (second hand) replacement ABS pump / module (MK60EC1) to my 2011 petrol VRS Octavia. We obtained the module code from the existing module using an autoscan with VCDS before removal. Fitment wasn't overly strait forward with the biggest issue being fitting the brake hoses onto the replacement module without cross threading. We had an issue with the back top hose engaging with the module thread and felt quite tight. It did leak a little but final tightened it enough for it to stop. Run through the re-coding on the new module using VCDS which went fine and now all warning lights have finally gone out with great relief. I want to thank everyone who contributed to the thread particularly Langers2k and Wino.

Further update... cleared the fault codes after changing the battery using diagnostic machine and only have fault code 01130 now (01276 has gone). Drove it @40mph to try and clear 01130 after clearing the codes but all 3 lights are still illuminated. They will not get the message and go away lol... any thoughts before I go ahead and buy a second hand module/pump and replace it?

So an update.... battery now changed. EPS and low tyre pressure lights come on along with the original ABS, Traction control and handbrake. A short drive and the EPS and low tyre pressure went off still leaving the ABS, TC and HB. All 3 fuses checked and looked ok, the legs on the fuse in the cabin (No2) had yellow stain on the legs but so have the other 5amp fuses I looked at as a comparison. No brakes in the fuse itself. Load testing next if I can work it out... thanks people!

Thanks Wino and Langer2k for your input.... very much appreciated. That is a good shout about the battery. The battery has just about had the juice to start the car recently and I do plan to change it. My plan is to buy a new battery today and fit it then check the fuses before removing the ABS module. I shall keep you informed.

OK that is what I kind of expected. I could check the fuse once I've identify which one drives the ABS pump/module. Regards to power loading - I wouldn't know where to start unless I can find someone local and knowledgeable. The car has done 137k now and had it since new and its my pride and joy. Its not been used much in the past year, probably 500 miles due to lockdown and WFH. At the same time as the ABS, traction control and handbrake light illuminated the EPS light flashed up for 5 mins but went out and stayed out since. Also the next day the engine warning light come on which indicated purge issue which turned out to be a faulty (ticking) N80 valve which I replaced last week which fixed the engine warning light. The ABS, traction control and handbrake light have always stayed on, the diagnostics do clear fault codes but return immediately after. We thought that the 01130 is there because of the 01276 and when 01276 is cleared that will also clear the 01130 fault... now I am unsure that would be the case after reading the 2 links above. Regards to versions I have noticed the last 2 letters generally change, mine is 1K0614517CN which I have found several in the used market thankfully. Thank you so much for your help.

OK that is what I kind of expected. I could check the fuse once I've identify which one drives the ABS pump/module. Regards to power loading - I wouldn't know where to start unless I can find someone local and knowledgeable. The car has done 137k now and had it since new and its my pride and joy. Its not been used much in the past year, probably 500 miles due to lockdown and WFH. At the same time as the ABS, traction control and handbrake light illuminated the EPS light flashed up for 5 mins but went out and stayed out since. Also the next day the engine warning light come on which indicated purge issue which turned out to be a faulty (ticking) N80 valve which I replaced last week which fixed the engine warning light. The ABS, traction control and handbrake light have always stayed on, the diagnostics do clear fault codes but return immediately after. Regards to versions I have noticed the last 2 letters generally change, mine is 1K0614517CN which I have found several in the used market thankfully. Thank you so much for your help.

Thank you very much langers2k.... The current fault codes are 01276 ABS hydraulic pump faulty and 01130 ABS Operation Implausible Signal which was read from a high spec diagnostic device but I don't think it's not got the capabilities to re-code (thanks to a neighbour) I don't have a VCDS type tool so I will need to ask about locally. What would be the cost of this kind of service? I am edging towards a second hand unit rather than a repair.

I have read from other threads that it's best practice to extract the existing codes doing an autoscan from the ABS module using a Ross Tech VCDS device. Do you have to actually plug in or can this also be done from the VIN number remotely? Thank you.

Hi, I recently done a N80 valve repair last week and upgraded to a newer rev number. I had ticking coming from the purge valve and engine warning light on orange. Now fixed! happy to share if you still need help.

Hi People... I have the same problem on my Octavia 2.0 VRS petrol 2011 with warning lights on the dash, ABS and traction control and handbrake. Scan showed faulty ABS module/pump so now I have 2 options. 1. take it off and send for repair @ £200 plus VAT includes a lifetime guarantee 1 week turn around.... OR 2. Buy a second hand one for £100 but would need to re-code with 3 months warranty. If I decide to buy the second hand one which needs a re-code, is this easy and cheap and is there a process that needs following to capture the existing module codes? Thanks in advance and will continue to post during repair for people to follow.