trabolgan

Thanks for the reply. Sounds feasible and worth plugging in vcds to see if any codes appear. Something to do over the weekend along with its annual oil change.

Merry Christmas my friend and to everyone else who celebrates festivities

I bought this because I changed all the gaskets. You just need the 1 gasket, get a oem maybe from skoda dealer or a trusted supplier. That gasket you need should be less than a fiver.

Bingo.. the one I used supplied by Garrett is like a hard thin black plastic not metal.. I will send a picture of the old one taken off

Also was the new turbine garrett or an import from China? A new garrett is 150 China 50 and they will fail rapid. So many turbo recon companies and rebuilders now use cheap import to save costs. The garrett gaskets and the one from ebay are like chalk and cheese

I done a turbo change on my Sons bkd last month. It's an audi A3 2005 but the same. I found the turbo gasket kit my boy got was not great, it included oil return gasket aswell. After fitting 2 days later under boost and engine light. Thought straight away those gaskets are poor. I bought a gasket kit from Garrett and changed them, boom problem solved and running a dream

Hi, where did you buy the recon turbo from and more importantly what gasket set did you fit?

Good evening all skoda octavia drivers, I want to share a circumstantial outcome driving my octavia 2011 petrol vrs which I've had since new and well looked after. Driving home 5pm today on a A road dual carriage way outside lane 75mph overtaking vehicles when a skoda estate decided to pull out into my lane giving me a split second to decide hard brake and stear right as much as allowed before I hit the central. In braking I hit the curb at 2 o'clock, fully locked up, smoke bellowing from all 4 tyres, smell of burning rubber but ovaided contact, hazards on, lights on the dash like a Xmas tree.. but that's not my concern.. the car conked out even though I dropped the clutch, she took 2 starts to get going and everything felt still locked up. Luckily the cars around me managed to stop in time with hazards but it hairy when I have my son in the car. The driving who pulled out nearly swipping me just drove off. Has anyone experienced the same outcome or know what the hell happened? All I have luckily is a scuffed tyre.

Thank you so much for your reply. I will take a look and try and understand what you mean. I am a novice and vcds is new to me and only know the basics. When I done my throttle body I followed a tutorial which helped me thanks to people like you who help. Thanks again

ok so i recently done a throttle body position calibration after removing the throttle body and my Son watched me do it. He then done the same on his car and he went into what he thought was the same module window as me and typed in 060 into a box (not the throttle body sensor cal) but he cant remember what window and it done something and now his radio and central locking don't work. he must of changed of coding or unticked something.. please any help would be helpful

Hi all hope you can help. I recently done some VCDS work on the car and I don't know what i've done but the radio won't power up and the central locking doesn't work. Please can someone point me in the right direction what i've done wrong and get me fixed?

All fellow Skoda and VAG car owners: last week I took my much loved Skoda Octavia VRS MK2 2.0 petrol owned from new into a local VW specialist garage for a water pump change due to a coolant leak. Picked up the car and drove it back on a short drive and parked her up on the drive. yesterday time to go into the office 80 miles away and set on my way, soon into the trip I noticed the car running a bit doggy and noticed the gear change notifier wasn't working as normal not indicating when to up gear or it took like 5000 rpm before it kicked in, i also noticed a slight power difference or car behaviour and the fuel mpg was not as good. Anyway I got to work and parked up until lunch time so I can have a look under the bonnet. Lunch time and time to have a look - I opened the bonnet to notice 2 things straight away 1, the air intake top box cover was off and fell down the gap in-front of the battery housing so there was a huge open gap. 2, I noticed a jubilee clip tightened around the moulded neck of the vacuum sensor at the front of the engine which wasn't there before. So some history - I changed that sensor 4 years ago with another sensor from a VW Tougan yes just the sensor rather than paying hundreds of pounds changing the whole assembly and having to remove the manifold. So I removed the old sensor by unplugging and cutting the hose then joining the new sensor onto the existing hose and coupled with a plastic insert and covering with adhesive lined black heatshrink. It looked smart and done the job with a local fix, the hoses were sealed with an insert to prevent collapse. The new sensor is a slightly different shape with a moulded shoulder taper coming away from the sensor which my heatshrink covered. I did put a jubilee clip over the hose loose just incase the heatshrink didn't do the trick but it did but I never removed it. What the technician decided to do was fit the jubilee clip over the shouldered taper and tighten it up as much they could. When I removed the clip I instantly noticed a hole/damage on my heatshrink but unsure how deep it goes, the hole was created by the sharp inner part digging in when tightening. I was concerned over 2 things 1, what is in that moulded taper area, is there anything delicate which could be crushed inside, is it an integral part of the sensor and 2, has it pierced a hole through the hose aswell as the heatshrink. Grab the Rhino tape and taped on the air intake cover and grabbed some self amalgamating tape and wrapped around the area with the hole. Time to drive home 80 miles - what a contrast, she drove like a dream again, gears notifier back as normal happy days but annoyed about the 2 point above. Today my son had his Audi A3 2.0 TDI 8P booked into the same garage for a Glow plug change and I was dropping him off - time for to mention what I have found.... well I was not expecting the response I got, the person involved was the workshop manager and from the off they was on the defensive. All I wanted to do was bring them to the attention of what I found, straight away it was yes we was doing you a favour fitting it back on - it was a bodge job I had done - the car is 13 years old 145k on the clock and past it - they refused to put it on the system in case something happens in the near future. They said I was being unreasonable but I hadn't asked for anything - they said to do the job properly is 4 hours labour plus parts that's why I done a bodge, well yes but it was working! then he said so why didn't you change your own water pump as I replied because I can't and you know I can't because it's the most complicated waterpump location and access I have ever seen as they replied yeah I know tough gig. They thought I was just a dumb ass who know's nothing but I know my way around this car and done some pretty tough repairs.. ABS module being one. They did offer to then do a local hose repair with 2 jubilee clips which I said no thanks I can do that myself - all in all a tad disappointing experience, I am nearly 50 years old and I have never experience such aggression, poor attitude from a customer facing employee ever, my teenage Son who was in attendance was left shocked by the experience. I just don't know what to do for the best, comments welcome please on what best to do if anything... Thanks for reading

Update: after being 95% sure the area that the coolant was coming from the waterpump (see pictures above) she went into VW specialist for the change, see parts changed below. During the replacement the tech said the waterpump was leaking and could see no other coolant lose anywhere else. 06H 121 026 ED - waterpump with thermostat and temp sensor 06H 121 131 C - Union WHT 006 407 - seal 4E 0121 666 - seal ring G13 coolant x2 (I am not sure but it could be 6.8l to fill the car) I have also read 4.6l so unsure. I was going to take it into Skoda but my local is 25 miles away and 2 weeks wait and 50 more expensive. Hope this thread helps others.

So in the event of replacing the water pump which has an integrated thermostat and temp sensor within the housing what else would be considered worth changing while the chain, belt and shafts are exposed and the oil and coolant drained? The car is 145k and had since new, had the head end of the engine replaced at 76k from chain tensioner failure done by Skoda in 2015. I want to keep it sweet as I want to keep it for years more

Also VCDS does not show any faults, no over heating, no noise from pump area

Given that I am thinking water pump and as its a slow leak and its not showing any other signs other than a small leak can I assume its more likely a seal rather than impellers? I read the impellers are plastic on these pumps and break up over time and other say seals can leak due to heat and warping over time. does anyone have experience in a water pump failure/leaking from a water pump on a 2.0 TSI CCZA and symptoms?

See picture of area where coolant can be found, it's on 2 bolt heads bolted into the engine block

This is a great read - I have a coolant loss issue on my TSI VRS octavia currently dripping off a bolt on the back of the oil sump and traced it up to the middle of the front of the engine block, coolant around 2 bolt heads, mine has done 145k miles and still original pump, I can only assume my pump seal is gone, it's going max to min in about 3 weeks and 500 miles of driving.

Ok so the plot thickens - I took off the undertray and there was a nice puddle of coolant waiting for me on the back end 8" in from the centre back tray screw then I noticed a drip off one of the oil sump bolts (see pic) the followed along the sump and up then lost it... back to looking at the front of the engine and spotted a bolt head attached to the front of the engine about 1/3 the way up covered in coolant and the bolt head to the right of that is also wet.. these are really hard to see through the mass of pipes and obstructions but I am now guessing water pump. Anyone seen this or can identify? thanks

Recaro - this was my first thoughts but it had a new chain and tensioner 70k ago but there's nothing to say its failing again, I have toped up the oil level to max and driven it about for a few miles and the noise has gone away for now but I will keep a very close eye on it. I will update as I go and thanks for your comments.

paws4thot - cheers for the nudge

Thanks for that Paws4thot - dude I am not a great tech person and I'm like 50 plus years old but I could give it a go as it's no excuse lol Siiim - i'm not going go use the aggressive stuff you can buy, the one I am looking at has really good reviews. Do you have previous experience? or has anyone else got views on using coolant liquid sealers for leaks?