schmooser

Can't take a photo, but mine was located at bottom of the engine bay on one of the the inch or so diameter air hoses at the front of the engine on the off side (right hand side, it's a mk2 140bhp 2.0tdi). You can see it if lay on your back slide your way in and look up!

All fixed (for now), even managed to extract the contact from within the connector block, re-crimped and soldered for good measure, extra wire added and crimp connector to original offending wire and Bob's your uncle, no more warning lights and limp mode! . . . oh, and copious amounts of insulation tape for good measure to keep the damp out!

Yeah, I was/am slightly concerned it may be a more complicated "problem nowhere near or related to the fault codes you're seeing" kind of thing! Fingers crossed I may have tracked down the issue. Just spent half an hour under the car trying to trace back the wiring loom to find the intermediate connector Wino referred to above. Continuity fine from the sensor to the connector, but then . . . . voila . . . found a broken wire (brown) on the other side of the intermediate connector. Rain halted play, but the morning's job is to jury rig the connector to check that is indeed the culprit, then figure out how to make good a busted wire so close to the connector! So an optimistic thanks in advance Wino.

Thanks for the swift response Wino, I'll have another root around the engine this evening to see if I can get to that intermediate plug. As for the ECU connections, are they accessible without disconnecting anything, i.e. pin in the rear of any connector? How 'safe' is disconnecting the ECU with ignition off?

Whoops, sorry I forgot that bit . . . 2010 Skoda Superb Estate 2.0 TDi 140bhp, CFFB

guys / gals - Anyone able to give me the duffers guide to how I check the continuity in the wiring between the plug for the MAP sensor and the ECU? I have a couple of error codes that point to the MAP sensor (5169 manifold pressure / boost sensor and 5282 intake air temp sensor). I understand these are in the same sensor unit. Just before I buy a replacement sensor I wanted to check the wiring loom. Very much an enthusiastic amateur rather than competent mechanic, but I do know how to use a multimeter to check for continuity in wiring, I have located the sensor and visually checked for any obvious wiring issues at that end, I just need to know where the other end of the four wires going to the sensor are! I assume they go straight to the ECU? A bit nervous about messing about with the brains of the engine, but I am hoping there is a safe way of doing this by unplugging the the, no doubt large and complicated, connector at the ECU and identifying the appropriate pins I stand a fighting chance of checking the wiring. Or will I be able to slot a safety pin into the reverse of the ECU connector, if someone can tell me which pin numbers to aim for. (It appears to make no difference whether the sensor is connected or not, I have tried a number of times starting the engine with the sensor connected and disconnected, clearing codes etc. but the same codes immediately come back whether the sensor is connected or not.)

Thanks as always for all the advice chaps. Turned out there was a rather easy solution to this . . . . . I have a used car warranty policy and had assumed this would be one of the many "no this doesn't meet our criteria" jobs that usually most jobs fall under when trying to get such a policy to pay out. So, while investigating the DIY parts / approach, got the garage to put the call in to the warranty company and rather surprisingly they agreed to cover the work . . . et voila . . . zero DIY effort, and more importantly zero cost, front shocks replacement! The down side being, of course, that I can't add any "Well when I did it this way, I found it helped to . . . . ." pearls of wisdom to the collective knowledge base.

Thanks Brad - very useful. Couple of queries : 1 - Is the stretch bolt the one he's removing at the 2 minute mark? 2 - Without undoing the drive shaft would be preferable to me also. Is it just a case that it's a bit more awkward leaving the drive shaft connected, so perseverence and skinned knuckles will get me there. Or is there more of a trick to getting the shocks out (i.e. compressing springs in situ to allow the shock to be moved upwards?) I will have a trawl of the internet this weekend for more clips such as this (if anyone can point me straight to a Superb II example that would be fantastic!) Cheers

Guys/gals - I am faced with the usual "while we had your car we noticed a couple of things" discussion with local skoda dealer after they had the car in to replace the timing belt (2.0 TDi elegance estate). Tyres I knew about but they also stated that the front shocks were leaking oil. Been a while since I replaced shocks in a car, but is it the straightforward diy job of: - jack up front end - use spring compressor - unbolt top and bottom of old shock - replace with new, then reverse above? Or is it more complicated than that? And although it may be of some interest to many, I am really only interested in how to do the job at the moment rather than a lengthy debate about which shocks to buy . . .!! Cheers

Thanks rover 220, just the thing I need on those websites. NEXT QUESTION! Is there a way of figuring out which size guide pins, as there are a few options on those sites, without dismantling one of the brakes enough to get one out and measure it? Car is as above with engine code ASV and rear brake code 1KP

Thanks Freedom, it is for a 1.9TDi elegance estate 2002. Will check out those sites later

Guys and gals - Anyone know where I can get a replacement guide pin for my rear caliper, I made the school boy error of cross threading the bolt into it, and although I eventually sorted it out, I did knacker a portion of the internal thread so would rather replace it with a new one. Local Skoda garage say it only comes as a complete part with the brake pad holder and therefore significant cost! Surely there is somewhere I can just get a single guide pin? Any ideas? Cheers

Guys / Gals - a little part number help requested. I have an 02 1.9TDi elegance estate with the not uncommon door lock mechanism problem. The near side front locking mechanism is playing up. I have previously taken the thing out and taken it apart, and am about to try it again, this time concentrating on the connections to the motor unit as mentioned in another post (have previously re-soldered all joints and checked micro-switches). Anyway assuming I can't fix it, I thought I would keep my eye out for a secondhand locking unit. My local skoda guys gave me the part number I need of "3B2 837 015 AK". I understand the basics of part numbers, but am not clear on the significance of 2 letters at the end. Will I have to find one with exactly the same part number, as there seem to be quite a few with the same first 9 digits but differing letters at the end. Or could there some that are compatible and some that aren't and if so anyone know which ones? Thanks as always

Thanks for the offer Johnnycatbiscuit, but decided to bite the bullet and get the laser one from halfrauds, offered to do my Dad's Golf ones in a couple of weeks, so will probably need it for that anyway. Now all done (hopefully) successfully ! For info I borrowed a mates circlip pliers set and Gclamp, gave that a go for 10 minutes in the hope that it would work and I wouldn't have to get the windback tool out of the packet so I could just take it back but it was stiff as hell and an awkward position, I could have done with another pair of hands, then it started to p*ss down with rain so I thought sod it and just used the tool . . . piece of p*ss with that,. The yorkshire blood in me doesn't like spending money but I, like others, recommend spending the 20 quid for the effort it saves!

Thanks guys, height adjustment may be stiffer, not sure don't use it much. Guess I'll leave it if others had the same thing happen without any problems. Cheers for the advice