Palatinux

If you're ordering a mirror for an MK1, I've seen two different models: one with a visible rim and one without. The rimless version is often too small.

I understand your concerns. Given that you're experiencing multiple issues related to various components like the PAS, screen-washer, and reverse lights, it's likely that the problem lies in the main wiring loom beneath the battery tray. If the issue is solely due to water infiltration in the cables, the car should perform (mostly) without problems when conditions are dry and warm. If you're unable to diagnose the problem yourself, it might be more practical to consider purchasing a new car. Many mechanics struggle with diagnosing such complex issues. In my experience, pinpointing the exact issue can sometimes take days unless it's immediately obvious. A good starting point would be to check the fuses. If you're considering the Picanto, I'd suggest opting for the 3-cylinder versions for better fuel economy, even though they may feel a bit rough and underpowered at low RPMs. Alternatively, the 4-cylinder variant offers a smoother ride. However, I'd advise against the GT line due to its turbocharger, which could become problematic in the long run.

I completely agree with your perspective, and I've shared similar thoughts. However, the 'jumper-cable' test I mentioned earlier seems to be a crucial aspect that we haven't explored yet. Neglecting this test is akin to searching for a needle in a haystack. It's essential that we address this aspect to ensure a comprehensive evaluation. Until that moment arrives, regrettably, I won't be able to offer any further assistance.

Does your car have a rear window wiper? I know that certain cars (not sure about this make/model) activate the rear wiper when going into reverse. A simple test would be to pull out the fuses for all wipers and screenwashers. I might also be possible that the ECU is short-circuited on one of the few unprotected lines/connections. But that is still guesswork with limited information. Can you make a video when from the instrument cluster when this happens and upload it to https://www.file.io/ ?

If the the car is parked in 1st gear, start the engine, put it in reverse while the clutch in pressed. Does it still run? Or does it cut off (a few secondes) after you very gently lift your foot of the clutch pedal? Is your instrument cluster still working if it cuts out and the time on it still set after?

P.S, I made a post in 2017 about the old alternator, and the L and DFM voltages are still the same now as back then. The load was reported correctly even in the VAGCOM logs. I hope I still can get a new alternator that will meet the OEM specs of the 047903015Q. "* The two signal cables (L1 and DFM) at the alternator read 11.5v from the car with the contact on (not running) and the signal cables and connectors look good. Battery light stays off when the alt. signal connector is disconnected when on contact > ok " Here are some pics of my BCM in case anyone need them (if they have issues with L1). Including some pics of the relaybox and positive connections in front of it.

Today I finished cleaning all major positive contacts, cables and fuses and got a 0.10v improvement in the measured voltages but only 0.02v improvement on the voltage drops. Especially the positive junctions above the relays near the steering wheel needed some cleaning and tightening. Same goes for the relay contacts. I also took the BCM apart, en didn't see any broken connections. And the buzzing relay is still there... somewhere... Maybe it's a relay in the Comfort Convenience Module or CCM. And that's for another time. While scanning all the modules in my car, I got a "17911 - Load Signal from Alternator Term. DF: Implausible signal - P1503 Intermittent. * I measured 11.02v and 11.22 on the DFM and L1 at the alternator, so the wires are fine. * In vagcom, at "Engine" > "Measure blocks" > block "053", I see a load of 30% when the engine is off and it goes all over the place when the engine is running. So I assume this "70A 305.526.070.010 PlusLine" alternator has a bad or incompatible regulator.

We often refer to those cables as 'startkabels' in Dutch, but I meant 'Car Battery Jumper Cables' indeed. This way you can add another ground if done properly. If it was a short-circuit, you'll be protected by a fuse. If this doesn't help, try to make a video of your instrument cluster when it happens and upload it here.

Seems to me that your earth cable near your gearbox is a loose swing-along. If you have a starter cable, try to connect it to the bracket of the alternator and negative of the battery. If this solves the issue, check all the ground connections.

After cleaning the potentiometers of the headlight- and instrument adjusters because of flickering instrument lights, i also inspected the headlight switch itself. Like in this video at 8:51 , I had the same dirty contacts which I properly cleaned and it improved the brightness of my lights in return. I also noticed quite some discoloration on top of the contacts, which indicate contact overheating. But for some reason the ABS enclose was still untouched by the heat. In other words. If you have an older car, it may not hurt to inspect and clean those elements at your own risk to prevent any failures or further damage.

Yes, the loss is 0.15V on the positive wire path between the alternator and the battery during half and full load. That wire should be 25mm2 according to the manual and I guess the length is 1.5m. So if you have 13.8v, you should expect a drop of 0.06v at 70A at just the wire, excluding the drop on multiple contacts (4x-6x 0.01v?). You can always pull another cable to the battery-box from B2 if required. Reving up the engine to 2000rpm did not made a lot of change on the voltage during one short load-test. Which is quite concerning to me and I expect some design flaw is also in place. I've already noticed in 2017 that soaking most of the contacts and wires first with soda (dissolve aluminum oxide), then soaking with cleaning vinegar and scrub it with a toothbrush (dissolve copper oxide), rinse with water then alcohol (de-grease) and lastly applying solder on top of the wires, made a huge improvement back then. So, I'm going to try this again and share my findings for this quite common issue on my cars.

I think mine was made from plastic too. Now I'm not sure if the used picture was a Fabia after all since I only was interested in the switch. But I 'm planning to inspect and service almost everything under the steering wheel anytime soon. So I'll try to make some pics by then.

I'll do some better measurements later on after cleaning almost all the contacts, wires, fuse contacts etc. again, plus I will apply additionally soldering on the wire <> connector contacts even if they are clean and in a good condition. It's better to waste my time on that, instead on fault finding in the future on this old car while it's raining cats and dogs again. During half load (dim, front, ventilation, rear heating), I measured the following drop voltages between the alternator and the battery: +0.15V, -0.04V - 14,22v alternator voltage, 14,02v battery, 13,77v internal voltage through cigarette lighter. During full load, which is half-load plus side-mirror heating, high beams, fog-lights front and rear, while blasting 'Raining Blood' through the speakers and the subwoofer: +0.14V, -0.04V - 12,05v internal voltage through cigarette lighter. I see some room for improvement, but it's still just under the 0.2v at 0,19v lost.

The new and right 70A alternator is now placed and tested. Not much difference in the voltage drops, but this new alternator provides a much more stable voltage when switching loads. Normally, the reading light was dimming a lot when switching loads and now the front lights don't even dim anymore while using the power-assisted-steering while parking in... and I've never seen that before since I bought the car in 2006 It's still unclear for me what was going on with the old alternator, but I think replacing it completely was a good decision instead of only servicing it (cleaning and a new regulator). Hopefully someone can confirm or deny my earlier findings for others who may have a similar issues, so we all know what to look for. What I do know now, is that I was mislead by the so called alternator revision specialist in 2017, since he could have seen this on his testbench. The voltage drop readings will be in the next post.

That might be, but it's not my own pedal on the picture. That one is still intact.