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Hello, A day ago injector 1 ended up in the same situation as that of injector 3 last time. Now I am getting the following error codes (when checked via Autocom Plus): P020100 - Cylinder 1 Injector Circuit - Permanent P047100 - Exhaust pressure sensor range/performance - Intermittent P245300 - Diesel Particulate Filter Pressure Sensor, Circuit Range/Performance - Permanent The later two are old codes with P047100 changed from Permanent to Intermittent. The first one is the new code that arose last night while driving at Motorway. I can change injector 1 as before but before doing so, I would like to clarify on the following: 1. Is this just a coincidence that the two injectors failed within short period of time? 2. Is there any possibility that the later two potential faults may be affecting the injectors? 3. Any checks that I can perform to rule out the other possibilities (such as wiring failure, PCM failure etc.) before changing the injector? 4. How should I tackle the later two codes. They do not affect the driving and when the injector is working, other than EML, there is no other problem. Thanks.

Just to update: I have now replaced the injector 4 with a used unit and the car is running fine. Whether the old injector, though looks fine is repairable or not, I am not sure. Assuming the electrical part is faulty, are appropriate parts available to repair/ replace them? Answers to questions that I asked earlier and that I found from replacement experience are: 1. Spline bit of size 8 is needed. 2. High pressure fittings are of 17mm. I used both open ended spanner and crow foot sockets but one can live with an open ended 17mm spanner. 3. It is necessary to remove injector 3 for removing injector 4. 4. I did use both new copper seals on both and a new retaining plate bolt. I used the rubber body again as they were fine. The fact that the old injectors may have some rust on the upper part and that requires patience while wiggling and removing them, rest of the task was pretty straight forward.

Thanks for your reply and the link. I do have a tool for coding injector. I do have a good mix of spanners including a crowfoot set. Now what I need to buy is appropriately sized and type spline bit, new retaining plate bolt, injector seal and washer.

Thanks pikpilot. That's fine. I shall not tilt the housing top while changing the filter. Do you have any answers to the questions that I posted earlier regarding replacing the injector 4?

From your comments, I assume not having "fix" is good....what exact benefit for not having this fix should I expect as an owner/ user of the vehicle? especially when the fix comes with two years warranty? I usually do not keep cars for more than a couple of years so for me a 24months "Trust Building Measures" warranty seems a good deal. I would prefer changing the injector myself as so far my experience of changing them in Clio and Megane was good. The only thing that I see a bit further work would require changing the fuel filter as the top of the outer casing of the fuel filter seems rusty. I am not sure of the condition inside. However, the fact that it has regularly been serviced at main garages during its life, I assume the fuel filter casing should be fine from the inside.

Thanks Pikpilot. I can only see on big sicker in the place where the spare tyre goes. No other sticker for 23R6. Also when I type in my VIN number on Skoda site, it says my car is affected and that I can book for a free technical fix at the nearest service centre. I assume that also confirms that the car did not have the fix applied. The oil level seems within the normal range and of reasonable colour (last oil change around 6000miles ago in March 2017 at a large dealership). When I removed the engine cover, injector 3 seems quite new and shiny with very little rust compared to others. Also, the injector part number on number 3 seems carefully scraped-off! If no fix was applied to my car, what is my position in terms of free fix under trust building measure? If I am not eligible to free fix then I am not interested in going to a dealership and would prefer changing the injector 4 myself and coding the same with cdp+. The only problem is that I wanted to make sure that it is the injector that is faulty and not the wiring. Also, I must have all the toolings and parts needed for the replacement.

While I am waiting for helpful fellows to reply on my original post and the method for isolating electrical/ injector fault, may I request some help on the following: 1. If I assume that it is injector 4 that is faulty, what size and type of spline bit shall I need for removing the injector retaining plate that holds injector 3 and 4? 2. Shall I have to remove both injectors 3 and 4 for replacing number 4? 3. From where can I move/ rotate the injector for loosening it? Any particular precaution? I did in past replaced injectors on Clio and Megane and both were easy to replace and code using CDP+. Is there any tutorial/ video/ instruction available that are specific to this engine? 4. I assume 1.6 diesel versions of Skoda, Audi, Seat and VW all share same engine and injector. I plan to buy a second-hand unit from Bay. What make are they, Bosch or Delphi? Apart from visual symmetry, any variation in the injectors that I should be aware of? Should I use an injector that came with a vehicle after 2010 or any of them will do the job? 5. Shall I need the new copper seals and rubber washers for both the injectors (assuming I shall have to remove both 3 and 4)? If yes, what are the part numbers or sizes? 6. Shall I necessarily need a new retaining plate bolt? What torque setting I should go for? 7. Besides general spanners and tooling, shall I need any special tool for this work? I just wanted to make sure that I have all bits and bobs before starting the replacement work. Thanks for the assistance.

I purchased the car last December and not sure if any emission fixed was carried out but I can see from Skoda website (by using VIN) that my car is one of those affected by EA189 Service Action. Last serviced in Apr. 2017 with a stamp in the service book.

Hello, After not using my Octavia (2010, 1.6tdi S Octavia Estate, basic version) for nearly eight months, I finally decided to use it again. In between I kept the battery charged most of the time except once when it drained excessively and after recharging, power steering light came but that went away after giving a few turns to the steering. I did start the car three to four times during this period and it started every time without any problem. Now yesterday when I took the car out for a long drive, with a few hiccups in the beginning, it ran fine on the motorway but after about 20miles yellow coil light started flashing with engine management light came on and the car started running on three cylinders with extremely reduced power. When connected to CDP+, I found three error codes: P020400 - Cylinder 4 Injector Circuit / Open - Permanent P047100 - Exhaust pressure sensor range/performance - Permanent P245300 - Diesel Particulate Filter Pressure Sensor A Circuit Range/Performance - Permanent Electrical connector to injector 4 (farthest from timing belt, just beside oil filling point) seems fine. If I remove connector of Injector 4, the engine runs with the same level vibration as it does with the connector connected on to the injector 4. To be on safe side I sprayed the connector with WD-40 but it didn’t make any difference. Could someone please suggest how to check for potential electrical faults before changing the injector? Shall any injector cleaner be of any help? If I clean the codes, the exhaust pressure and dpf sensor error remain off for some time but Cylinder 4 injector circuit error immediately comes back with flashing coil light. Thanks in advance for the help.

Thank you for your reply. The fact that this unit is of generic nature, a step-by-step walkthrough shall be of great help for fellow Briskodians . 20m+ fine for me. and I do have a soldering iron and a wire stripper. Regards,

Thanks, Julian1001, I shall get back with the error codes. Regards,

Hello, Which aftermarket remote kit you went for and how easy was the installation? How long is the range? Regards,

Hello, I recently acquired a 2010, 1.6 S, tdi Estate Octavia. A very basic model, I believe. It came with three keys; one seems like original spare with two others that look like aftermarket keys (Skoda written on the plastic part just below long keyring hole and FACEA/ HAA written on the blade). All three keys unlock the door and start the car as they should. The seller told me that the car is a basic model and never had any FOB key, a bit hard to believe! The keys only unlock either of the front doors at a time and I have to unlock the other doors via unlock switch inside the car. My questions are: 1. How can I determine if the car originally came with a FOB key? 2. How can I enable the option to unlock all doors without using the switch? 3. Is it possible to programme a second-hand FOB key purchased from eBay that is likely to be pre-programmed for another car? 4. Are there different versions of FOB keys? if yes, how do I know which one (chip type) should I buy from eBay or Aliexpress? 5. I do not have the four-digit security code for the car. Is it possible to find it via VIN? Engine management light is on but it does drive normally. The only exception is that it does not go above 2500rpm when stationary but once I start driving, it runs normally with no restriction on rpm. Thank you in advance for your replies.

Morning All, I recently acquired a Skoda, Octavia MKII (2010). This is my first Skoda in the last 30+ years of driving. I have mostly been driving Japanese car with some French and American cars. I am happy to be part of this friendly community and look forward to learning and sharing my experience. Thank you.