Arghhhhhelp
-
Posts
64 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Shop
Events
Downloads
Posts posted by Arghhhhhelp
-
-
Is this the same for a 2000 model
-
Its just high , don't slip hardly just now and again under hard acceleration.
Sometimes a slight judder in long traffic stop starts.
How do you bleed the system thought my old type was cable.
-
On 05/05/2010 at 10:40, cheezemonkhai said:
This is started as a informational thread following comments in other threads and any posts with further information and/or corrections are more than welcome.
Please however don't use this thread to start a discussion on the benefits or otherwise of a DMF.
What is a DMF?
DMF stands for Dual Mass Flywheel.
A traditional flywheel is a large lump of metal, usually with a relatively high mass which acts to smooth out power and torque from the engine.
A DMF is made of two pieces of metal connected by a toothed and sprung system with damping.
A DMF is designed to reduce transmission gear rattle and ease gear changes.
Another function of the DMF is to provide isolation between the crankshaft and gearbox to reduce torsional spikes.
This is a useful web page, with information on DMFs:
http://www.cdxetextbook.com/trans/clutchMan/clutches/dualmassflywheels.html
This video on YouTube shows a DMF:
This video on YouTube shows a failed DMF:
What cars are fitted with a DMF
A DMF is fitted to the following:
Mk I Fabia:
- VRS (PD130)
- PD 100 models
MK II Fabia:
- TDI models
MK I Octavia:
- PD130 TDI models
- Some other TDI models. (1998 onward typically)
- 1.8T models, including vRS
MK II Octavia:
- All TDI Models
- 2.0 T and 1.8T petrol engined models.
MKI Superb:
- TDI models
MK II Superb:
- All TDI models
- Larger petrol engines.
(If you know others that are or that one of the above isn't post and I'll fix it
)
Diagnostics
The following are signs that your cars DMF is possibly gone or on it's way out:
-
Your car "sounds like a mad midget trying to hammer his way out of hell".
- Rough idle, combined with a jerky uptake of drive
- Jerky pulling away
-
A large hole in your gearbox with oil pouring out.
Many garages will tell you that the gearbox has to come off to confirm if there is an issue with the DMF.
I've been reliably informed (thanks MoggyTech) that if you take the starter out, then you can see the play in a failed DMF.
Also my skoda dealer confirmed to me that there is an inspection hole on the 02m gearbox, which can be used to check the DMF.
It was suggested the price for either of the above routes was about the same.
This means a much smaller bill for diagnostics, so if your garage tells you they need to take the box off at hundreds of pounds to check the DMF, then you know it's time to find a new garage.
Likely costs to replace a DMF.
Typically if a DMF dies you should replace the DMF, new seals and the whole clutch kit at the same time.
The reason for this is that the labour cost for taking the gearbox off is a lot higher than materials and as such you don't want to have to risk pulling it off again.
Under warranty this may not be the case and it comes down to if the DMF has damaged the clutch.
Costs are around the £500 to £1000 mark, depending on who you use to carry out the work.
At present a DMF and clutch kit can cost from as little as £200 (none genuine) to about £600(OEM) although prices will obviously vary with time.
Likely causes of DMF failure and how to minimise the chance of failure.
There seems to be a good number of cases of premature DMF failure on cars reported on this forum and others.
While the DMF (or a certain design of DMF) may be a relative weak point in the drive train, there are some things can increase the likelihood of premature DMF failure.
- Racing Starts
- Driving around at very low RPM
- Putting a lot of power down from low revs
- Sharp and harsh application of the power
- Remap (See below)
All of these put much larger strain on the active parts of the DMF and can increase the likelihood of an early failure.
Avoiding these where possible and having some mechanical sympathy should reduce the likelihood of problems, but obviously the part is a mechanical items and will have a designed lifetime.
Regarding a remap, it should be noted that a remap can cause the car to deliver more power or torque than the DMF is rated for, which will obviously reduce it's effective life.
This is not a given for all remaps and it should be noted that the quality of a remap can vary wildly.
While some vendors will provide an excellent service, taking into account the DMF and other factors, there are others who may provide a poor quality map which takes no account of these factors and can shorten the life of the DMF and other components. (A search should reveal more).
Hope that helps.
I've a mk 1 fabia estate 1.9sdi what type of clutch is it I've been told its this type https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F332261397100
Any help I'd be very greatful
-
Your car "sounds like a mad midget trying to hammer his way out of hell".
-
I've a 2000 fabia 1.9sdi estate
With high clutch , what clutch do I need
-
On 13/05/2018 at 23:15, Estate Man said:
Just a further quickie, I was out today in the Fabia and had several cold starts (one early morning after an overnighter), and a very substantial longer run taking in all road types with 5 folks in the car for much of the day. Pleased to report the clutches performed completely normally with no slip. Believe me, I tried to make it slip, but to no avail. The clutch is still bedding in but so far so good. I'm thinking the short burst of slip I experience the other night was purely down to the clutch not being bedded in. But we'll see...watch this space!
Krigl, thank you for the pm with the factory clutch documents. Very helpful.
Anyone know what clutch type is a fabia mk 1 estate 1.9 SDI 2000 reg??
-
Hello,
Anyone have any knowledge regarding the size of the drive shaft to wheel bearing housing (splines) between a 1.9tdi and a 1.9sdi say both cars in a 51 plate .....
I'm needing to source another hub carrier and sort of found one but ...
My car is 1.9 SDI the source part from a tdi.
I can't recall if one has more splines any knowledge regarding this would be very helpful.
Reason for new hub carrier
The caliper bolts have worn the threads thanks to the former bloody garage that used to fleece the former keeper...... !
-
On 22/04/2018 at 21:16, TMB said:
36mm 12 sided.
Top man thank you for your help
-
1
-
-
23 hours ago, TMB said:
Wow, never seen that before!
Thanks to a bloody pot hole narrow road dark evening and an Almighty bang
-
21 hours ago, TMB said:
What was wrong with your CV joint?
Fractured ball bearings (2)
Got new ones .... Jobs a good un
-
On 01/05/2018 at 20:40, alfalincs said:
My daughter...who is no mechanic was quoted £300 by a Skoda specialist (not main dealer) for a front wheel bearing on her Fabia 1.2. Another Skoda specialist did the job last week for £125 which I think is pretty good considering. Nobody round here is up to bashing stuff any more, though I did do the front discs on my Octavia last August on the driveway. I did think £300 was taking the michael a bit.
Sure was
-
Cheers to all that helped
Wheel bearing completed and was shocked to find the CV joint was damaged !
Rebuilt that as well..what a job ....!
-
1
-
-
20 hours ago, TMB said:
You might want to try your new socket on the driveshaft nut to see if it actually goes on before you do the job. I had to shave some off the wall of mine so that it would fit in the hub orifice.
The black steel type are best there longer and thinner , mines the black type eBay job for just over £7
Don't mind breaking them at that price not that I ever have broke one yet.
-
On 23/04/2018 at 15:25, mpm222 said:
It is possible to do without Gen 2 tool! Remove hub, drift old bearing out and ABS sensor has to be removed!!
Place new bearing in freezer overnight, heat hub up in oven on high for two hours, lightly oil new bearing and push into hub by hand (drift with wood block if required). The locking clip has to be pushed into place with a screw driver, as not pushed in with tool.
I replaced one on mine this way last year, no problem, except did break ABS sensor and had to replace with new one.
Don't think the wife would like me putting an old dirty hub in the freezer next to her smoked Salmon lol
Now many years ago when I was single I did this and it did work,
-
-
http://pmmonline.co.uk/technical/wheel-bearing-replacement-skoda-fabia/
Looks like its gonna be fun !
-
Hi guys,
I've had to buy the above mentioned socket can't moan was only £7 from Fleabay lol
Haven't got round to doing the job yet as have another project car going which is another hub-nut type of story, anyways the bearing unit itself is it a push through the hab carrier type or is it held in by four hex bolts ?
Any photos any one ?
Thanks for any help,
I'll try post pics when i do decide to crack on with it
-
What's the wheel bearing lock nut size .. 32 mm ? Or other type of socket
-
So its now time for a front wheel bearing change
But which way is best
Complete unit ?
Press them in yourself?
Times not on my hands so any advice and part numbers would be helpful to this old man !
Is there any fast way of doing the job ?
-
5 minutes ago, sepulchrave said:
The vast majority of garages are morons and liars, let me translate for you:
"we have absolutely no idea what's wrong with your car but if you're prepared to throw a grand at it, I know a some smart guys who charge much more than we do who can fix it and we'll still make a decent profit on the job."
The ECU has nothing to do with this issue. Ok.
Just what I've heard pal.
If its not all the obvious regarding what causes the issue to the car then i would either get rid or go back over everything possible to get to the actual problem.
Why throw money at problem with no resolution when its easier to buy another car ( with out the same issue)
Maybe the owner should do a video so folks get to see what's what.. ???
-
Ok, trolling my memorie bank here, basically engine runs gets hot thermostat opens ecu is then setting fuel mix and so on , you have a car that is hot with no heater working
This would point to air lock or blockage or waterpump only spinning every other turn
My reason for ECU is sometimes it can make gauges read incorrectly due to a problem else where...
If the rad is clean and not leaking or any of the pipes as well as the matrix then just maybe with all the electronics now a day the ecu could just be on its way out and effecting the electrical stuff that helps the coolant system process... Bit of a different direction but I've seen a couple of car owners go through this to be told by garage that the ecu needed changing.
I take it the head gasket water pump can belt and so on is all new or good ?
Easy way out ... Another car ?
Problem solved.
I hope you do get to the conclusion I'd love to know what you find.
When I had the same issue mine was an airlock due to me replacing belt pulleys and pump once bleed it was ok.
Good luck anyway
-
Maybe ECU screwed up
-
I'd have a pressure test done as to rule out possible head gasket (early signs of) fail.
Old car I once had ran rich
Had similar codes but no sign of head problem till pressure test was done..
Not saying yours is but could be maybe worth a shot
-
Saved myself over £300 brought parts that were highly recommended and did it over a weekend taking my time and feeling chuffed now
Main dealers need to be slapped down ( that's my opinion there are some genuine ones as well as rip off ones)
-
18 minutes ago, Wino said:
So ignore the money-grabbing dealer and do nothing.
Dealerships will tell nearly everyone that takes a car to them the same thing.
Almost all discs corrode around the rim, it doesn't matter, except cosmetically.
Let's hope it wasn't the same dealer that used to look after my car before my ownership they did rip the former keeper off , By the parts yourself and if your clued up fit them too its pretty simple really.
But if there ok and don't need doing ....the wallet is safe.
Dealers .... Who loves em
)
Suspected clutch issue following fluid bleed
in Skoda Fabia Mk I (1999-2007)
Posted
Cheers