beezera10

Cheers. Mine is the former rather than the latter. My original query was whether I needed to employ a different method of pulling off the connector as it was stuck fast and I didn't want to damage anything. I'd figured out about removing the bulb and connector together, but just wondered why such a simple task proved so difficult.

It's strange to have such a delicate set up that requires so much effort to dismantle - I'd have thought the connectors would come off easily. The twist-offs are a bit easier to deal with, I find.

Thanks mate - this is exactly what I didn't want to happen - 500 Euros, Jeez. I've yet to get to the job of replacing the bulb but, when I do, I'll make sure I take the bulb plus connector out first then try to separate. Not sure why it's so difficult?? It was easier when they had the little clip that had to be eased up with a small screwdriver - connector then came straight off.

Thanks gents. I did notice that the bulb and connector could be released together - access is pretty good. I'll do what you suggest and use this method, just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing anything. Citigo is 2014 vintage and never had a bulb yet. Tell you what though, saw a video on removing the headlamp if needed - what a faff. Thanks again.

Hi folks I'm trying to replace a H4 headlamp bulb on the Citigo but cannot get the connector off for love nor money. Is there a catch or technique I'm missing. Tried a bit of brute force but the spring catch just flexes and the connector won't let go. Don't want to force anything in case something expensive breaks. Cheers

I'm not too concerned as I've run my cars and motorcycles on Mannol oil for the past 8 years and have had no issues whatsoever. I think the complaint is merely a paper exercise brought by bureacrats in the oil industry. TBH, one could question the specifications of most oils and whether they're being entirely truthful in their claims. I'll continue to use Mannol and drain from the sump - which is an industry standard method.

Mate, the oil goes thinner when warm/hot. The advantages of doing this are numerous, including allowing the oil to drip off internal engine components and drain more freely. Any possible crud in the oil is in suspension, which is what they're designed to do. I do a sump plug drain because the flow of hot oil out encourages the purging of any residues in the sump. Roottoot is right - oil showing the correct specs have to be just so, or they're contravening UK law in trade description. They could also be liable if someone experiences engine failure because of misleading product info. I like Mannol as it seems like a very professional company and I can buy 20l at a time.

Hey Phil. The Skodas are really easy, except perhaps for the tray under the Octy. I usually put the front wheels on ramps for easy access. Filter is at the top for the Octy and a front spin-on for the Citigo. I did have a car in the past where the filter was right at the back, but can't remember which car. TBH, for most VAG cars, pretty much anyone could have a go at an oil change. As for the sump plug, screw it in and nip it up - no probs.

Don't know why you'd use a pump then remove the plug - may as well just remove the plug, surely. Sludge can build up over time. Also, you can check the condition of the oil and whether there are any 'bits of foreign matter' at the bottom of the receptacle you're using to receive the oil.

Six years on!!! I use Mannol 504/507 at 8-10k intervals. It costs £50 for 20 litres and it brilliant oil - no issues at all over 60k miles. I have never changed the sump plug or used a torque wrench on it. In fact, when I got a slight weep, I just put a couple of winds of ptfe tape around the threads nearest the hex on the plug and it cured it. Changed oil in cars this way for 40 years and never lost a sump plug or had any engine problems. Filters have ranged from Crosland to Mann to Bosch and many more - never been an issue. Oh, and I never use a pump - doesn't remove any crap/sludge from the sump. I get it nice and warm and drop the whole lot out from the bottom! So, I do my changes on my 2008 1.9 PD for about £17 and an hour of my time (leisurely pace). Don't give the money to the stealers.

Just seen FatblokeVRS's video! Thanks pal!

Cheers pal, I'll have another go at it tomorrow!

Spot on mate, thanks very much. I always put the nut on before giving it a bash with a nylon headed hammer. I could just push it out, which would probably be less risky. I take it the inner o-ring is the one that sits in the recess near the top of the piston in the bore and the outer seal is the one that sits behind the handbrake arm. It'll be the latter that'll be more difficult to find, I reckon, although I think I could modify an existing seal to do the job.

Yes, piston is out - stuck fast!

Thanks mate. I've tried tapping the shaft through the caliper but it won't budge. I was a bit hesitant as I didn't want to damage anything and didn't know which way it was supposed to go anyway. I've even given it some heat. Do I need to give it a harder bash or even press it out? Also, I take it there's a spring somewhere on the shaft? I'll need a full kit including the seal behind the actuator arm - any tips where I can find them? Cheers

I know this is an old thread, but the post by CWARD is of interest to me. I'm currently restoring an old caliper off my Octy PD 1.9Tdi Estate and I cannot figure out how to remove the handbrake spindle. Everything else is off but I need to get the spindle out as it's damaged from being seized. Is it possible to get this spindle out, or is it new caliper time? Thanks in advance for any replies!

Bit late, I know but: BXE engine is solid in my 2008 Octy estate. Oil change (VW507 Mannol) every 10k. Timing belt 60k or six years for me (maybe 5 years if I'm flush). DMF rattles a bit, but has for the last 25k - will replace with SMF if it goes. Plan to keep the car until the wheels fall off. Completed 50k with me and 128 overall. Previous Mk1 did 158k before leaving the family. Love these cars!!