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skoman

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    York

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    Skoda Fabia 1.2tsi
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  1. It may also be worth getting someone with VCDS and looking at the measuring blocks for the injectors and fuel system in general and try to pinpoint what is happening regarding fuel delivery under load. It could be a leaky injector which could be dumping fuel causing low fuel pressure.
  2. Are you able to look up the Differential pressure sensor readings? With the ignition on but engine off the reading should be zero and when the engine is running you should see it start to climb.
  3. Yes I believe you can. Make sure you have at least 1/4 tank of fuel & Handbrake is ON Start engine & plug in the OBD eleven- do a scan and clear any engine error codes In '01 Engine' select 'Change Service' and then select 'EOL' (end of assembly line) mode Login using code: 27971 In 'Basic settings' scroll down & select 'Service regeneration of particulate filter' Press the green button for several seconds- ignore red error message Switch off engine- but leave key in & ignition ON Restart engine and go back to 'Change Service' and select 'EOL'- using same code In Basic settings scroll back down to 'Service regeneration of particulate filter' Press green button again for a few seconds- which may turn from green to grey- ignore red error message then Firmly press brake pedal for a couple of seconds and then let go & gently press the accelerator pedal and the revs should gradually climb on their own to 2000 rpm. The OBD will now have a red STOP icon on your screen- you can press this if you need to abort the process at any time as it takes a while.. Now simply leave the engine for as long as it is revving it will drop to 1100 rpm after a period of time- but continue to leave it at 1100 rpm for another 10 mins or so, or until the revs drop to normal 600 rpm and the Red STOP icon is no longer showiing. Finally, Run a new error scan and clear any new fault codes. Let me know how you get on
  4. That code refers to the DPF unable to complete a full regeneration. It could be a faulty pressure sensor or associated wiring or it could be a blocked DPF. You could first try a forced regeneration of the DPF it may or may not work.
  5. If you mean the Current supply relay (J329) if memory serves me correct that is under the dash in position 9. If you pm me your Car details I can double-check.
  6. Have you taken off the fuel metering valve (N290) on the fuel pump itself? If not take that off and check the seals and also check for any metal shaving inside the pump. If you find any shaving inside that means the fuel pump has had it
  7. I have just edited my previous post. Thank you to Wino. I realise the original post may of been misleading. Regarding the misfire are able to post up any live data ? Injector flow readings etc. It may be worth getting a compression test done aswell.
  8. It could be a faulty instrument cluster or the data bus wiring from the cluster to the ECM. First thing to check is the fuses and the wiring. But I doubt this has anything to do with the misfire.
  9. If you can DM your email address, I will send you over some wiring diagrams. Your engine code should be CFWA can you confirm?
  10. I will say this with the greatest respect before you start throwing any more parts at it get it properly diagnosed. Have you thoroughly checked all the wiring ? If you need a wiring diagram I can supply one for you.
  11. If you use the screw on the right hand side of the fuse box you can get an earth from that or if you take of the driver side dash panel that will gain you access to the dashboard steel frame. If you want to use the proper earth point that is under the centre console.
  12. From memory you can get an earth from one of the torx screws that hold the fuse box into place.
  13. i've checked various sources including erwin and C54 it is 125nm and FN3 124nm
  14. Front caliper carrier bolts are 125nm and caliper to carrier bolts are 30nm
  15. Out of curiosity I decided to purchase a cheap VCDS hex v2 cable from Ebay and compare it against a Genuine one. Before i decided to plug it in to my car I thought I would have a look inside both of them beforehand. After looking at the fake one I decided this was going nowhere near the car. The difference between the two is quite significant. just thought I would post this in case anyone is thinking of buying one of these cheap VCDS cables. The first two picture are of the fake one and second two are of the genuine one.
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