cargeeka999

Is the chassis solid? If it is then yes but could be a lot of work, if not then probably not. If you have a solid chassis then many things can be replaced, engine, wheels, gear box ect it can.all be done. Even dash and other interiors can be replaced. If you can find original parts then all the better, but there is nothing wrong with something different if you cant. Just be aware that it would cost more to insure, or you might need a specialist insurer in some cases. Even if some of the Chassis is damaged you might be able to patch it. The biggest hurdle is how much are you prepared to spend on it?

Yes please send pics it will be interesting to see what you did. I mainly use it in daylight or on lit roads around town though, but I will consider an upgrade in the future.

Another update I have redone the power cables, I now have the wiring for the lights going to the fuse box too. The lights now work with the ignition off, which means the trailer indicators flash when locking and unlocking the doors. Nice thing is I can unplug the both when I don't have a trailer on the back.

So I got the large piggyback fuse thing and found a spare slot on a bus bar that is perminantly live. I think its the bus bar with the cigarette lighter. Using a spare slot meant I didn't have to muck around with another fuse, but the piggyback thing meant I didn't have to put the cable into the back of the fuse box. Made the job much easier. I have disconnected it again because of battery drain though. Oh and as for the other bypass unit, the second one I got, I think it's faulty, as I tried it on an older simpler car that doesn't have shared tail light wiring. The tails still didn't work. Never mind I have still saved money over having a tow bar company do the job. I have even fitted a reverse light on my trailer. See picture. So a productive day. Oh and thanks for the help from everyone that did.

Well I assume that the TEC3M unit is set up to handle that as they say fit a 30 amp fuse? the cables going from that unit to the 13 pin socket are quite thick too.

The TEB7SA is connected via a separate power source I found in the boot, it's not sharing the one from the TEC3M. The cable for the TEC3M is definitely capable of 30amp I made sure of that. Likely the power cable for the TEB7SA is fine for 15amp its a reasonable thickness.

Well I'm using this: http://www.towbarsdirect.co.uk/images/TEC3M.pdf And of course this: http://www.towbarsdirect.co.uk/images/M7-WK7.pdf Both on seperate power sources. The TEC3M says 30amp And the TEB7SA says 15amp My question is If I use 1 30amp fuse at the fuse box for the TEC3M which protects the cable do I need another fuse next to the TEC3M of 30 amp for it or is the one fuse now sufficient? I feel like I'm finally close to winning with this thing!

I assume the cigarette lighter is powered when the ignition is off? Else I can't use that. I have found the large piggyback fuse tap you mentioned and have ordered it. I assume I need a 30amp fuse at that end and a 20 amp at the other end where the load would be? Or would the fuse at the fuse box be ok for cable and load? I can do it either way as I will now have the parts.

Thanks for the advice about removing it when not in use. Currently the only trailer I use is a small one with just road lights which are powered as I have mentioned up thread. The other internal caravan stuff I won't need powered up unless I actually have a caravan so I will keep unplugged most of the time. I assume that it would need to be plugged in for the MOT?

Could I use 2 of them in parallel with 15 amp fuses to create a 30 amp total or would I be best buying a larger 30 amp piggyback one?

So can use something like this: https://go.skimresources.com/?id=38947X1001323&isjs=1&jv=14.4.0-stackpath&sref=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.briskoda.net%2Fforums%2Ftopic%2F489678-skoda-octavia-mk2-issues-with-wiring-for-trailers%2F%3Ftab%3Dcomments%23comment-5500444&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fitm%2FCar-Add-A-Circuit-Piggy-Back-Fuse-Tap-Mini-Blade-Fuse-Holder-120x-5-30-Amp-Fuse%2F123197128389%3Fhash%3Ditem1caf1efec5%3Ag%3AlAUAAOSwHrlcI9CT&xguid=&xs=1&xtz=0&xuuid=dd7fd3ee3a9cb2da367b500fd6365116&xjsf=other_click__contextmenu [2] so that the cable is protected? will there be enough power off the fuse box for it?

I have found this kit https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Car-Add-A-Circuit-Piggy-Back-Fuse-Tap-Mini-Blade-Fuse-Holder-120x-5-30-Amp-Fuse/123197128389?hash=item1caf1efec5:g:lAUAAOSwHrlcI9CT Is it a good idea for installing the permanent 12v for caravan electrics into my car fuse box?

Hi an update, I managed to get all the lights working with the first 7 way bypass unit, I then tried with the second and all but the tail lights worked. So I used the first unit. I also got a cable from the back of the car to the front to allow the other caravan power options, battery charging, fridge, internal lights ect. I still don't know how to go about connecting that to the 12v supply behind the fuse box, to get a clean unfused supply thats powerful enough. I would like some advice about how best to proceed with that. I have included a picture of where Im at with it, there are two inline fuses in parallel 15 amp each totalling 30amp.

Thanks I use passenger side for fogs! thanks for what you said I can try with that and see how it goes. The other model is Smart Logic 7 Way Bypass Towing Relay 12N Towbar Wiring Canbus Ring RCT485. I will let you know if I need coding. BTW as Im only using lights at the moment I have been using a switched power source from the boot area, which is fine for the relay of course, but I had a look at the fuese box today and Im wondering where I would need to join the power for caravan battery, fridge and internal lights? And how it would be connected, Im assuming that a much better connector than the ones used to connect the relay wires to the car light wires?

I have messaged both manufactures of the products I have and will see what they have to say. I will try a last ditch attempt to get things to work using a combination of both relays if I can though. Im thinking if I only try the fog on the unit that also works the reverse light but have the stop and tails on the other I might just get something working. It wont be a standard set up, but I cant see it overloading the car as its still only operating the same amount of lights as it would from one unit.

A dedicated kit would require coding I believe so I wouldnt be able to fit that myself, but I can check with the manufactures, if I can get in contact with them.

I have now tried two different way bypass units and neither will enable to fog light to work on the trailer. The 7 way bypass instructions say dont connect the tail lights if the vehicle has shared brake/tail or fog/tail, this vehicle has both. The stops work fine on both units, the tails only work on one, the reverse only works on the other, the indicators work on both units, it makes no sense! Can anyone here shed any light on this situation?

Update: OK so I found this: Something that didnt come with any of the bits I brought, which says if there is common brake/tail and or fog/tail then dont connect the brown and black tails. My Skoda seems to have both somehow? It seems to be like langers2k said his old car was in his post in this thread. So I missed out the two tail leads and have break and tails working OK. Unfortunately the Fog still doesnt work, but I got the indicators working. There is no reverse lights on my trailer but I checked the pin that should be for reverse and I got nothing when I use a meter to earth/ground. I get 12v on the two pins that are supposed to be live for internal caravan electrics so thats all good. Does anyone have any idea why my Fog and Reverse lights arent working and how I might fix them? I can use the trailer when there isnt Fog, but really want it sorted as its obviously a legal requirement to have a working rear fog light.

Update. So I fitted the bar today, that was a job and was strange in that you have to remove the rear crash bar to actually to fix it in, but thats what the instructions said so thats what I did. The electrics are quite confusing, I found a 12v supply in the back but quickly realised its the supply for the parking sensors and had to find another! I attached the 7 cables for the lights to what I thought they would be, but something isnt quite right. The tails work, I think the stop lights work, but no fogs or indicators so I must have something off. Anyway its too late for today and the car lights arent effected, as would be expected, so I will try another day. Im about half way there and I have more cable to get the 12v supply straight from the battery or fuse box, so I shouldnt need the low amp one in the boot.

Ah so what would be the best thing to do in that instance?

Thanks I might have to just go with that.

Is their a haynes that covers it? I know there is a diesel one, but perhaps that will give me the wiring I need for the rear lights?

You mean the ball? either way I plan to sort it long before the MOT which isnt due till the Autumn

Ah OK I could wire for the lights and sort the proper 12V supply at a later date, I am fitting a 13 pin socket but I will only be using a small trailer for the time being not a caravan.

Will it do for the lights 7 way bypass?