Sino23

So update , got the egr replacement skoda part cause it was throwing up a fault and going into limp mode . and a non skoda part thermostat and the temps are reaching normal ,90 for the coolant and , around 100 degrees for the oil , cost 750 euro for the whole job and a heard it was a headache doing it 🤣 8 or 9 hours I think

Yea that's what I was thinking it shouldn't be going up and down constantly does that part look something like this

Cheers langers2k It's a manual , 2011. 268000kms. Ok cool so the thermostat controls overall temps ,and the coolant temp sensor only does the coolant ?

Ok so I was driving my friends superb today and I was shocked at his oil temps going up to 98 to over 100 degrees ,which I found out is normal operation temperature..as mine rarely goes over 80 degrees also the coolant on his superb was smack on 90 degrees pretty much the whole time , mine rarely goes there if ever and fluctuates alot of the time up and down . I do mostly motorway driving ,like 100 kms a day, I'm thinking just from a quick look here it might be , coolant temp sensor or some thermostat , any ideas .

Hey Jim so how have you got on with your window , I've drilled out all the rivets it was easy enough and the panel is about to come off I just need to take out the holding pins from the window , ithink you can do this by threading a screw into it and pulling it out , did you find out what size rivets to get yet.

I have the same I think , went to put the window down when it was already down and a nice snap then grinding crunch sound of a cable or something. Lucky it went back up but its screwed now , any idea of the part needed ?

Ye wiilydog I will try that I think tomorrow, and maybe think about getting the wheels Ballanced and tracked , I could end up forking out for a bearing hub and new drive shaft and sure that's everything changed apart from the wishbone 😂 fatblokeVRS yea it's a head scratcher that clicking noise I'm not sure if it's gone away after the new discs , as I can only hear it when jacked up and running in 1st with the brakes lightly applied ,, true that click could be the source of the brake judder but that's gone for the time being with new discs im sure it will be back tho unless I find out what the real problem is . Head is wrecked with it and it's costing me more and more 🧐

So small update , been getting worse since March ,so finally brought it to a garage a supposedly a good one 😋 not sure about that tho. So the first time last week only brought it in and they diagnosed front bushes both sides , i wasn't very convinced but let them fit em ,couldn't do any harm only hurt my pocket. Took it out on motorway, felt a bit more stable ,but that's new bushes for you. But the wobble and brake judder was still there , obviously they never drove it after or only spun round the town. So I bring it in again. Now they recon from my description the discs may be warped from the hubs not been polished when I replaced disc🤔 I was like ok then , got the hubs polished and new discs. Now bushes and discs changed brake judder has gone , but the wobble still remains and it seems to ocilate from bad the worse every couple of hundred meters at 120kph I wonder would a slightly buckled hub from overtightened wheel nuts knock The the discs off bit after a while. I'm going to jack it up and run it in 1st again to see if that clicking he's gone .

Sorry very late getting back yea it was the fuses next to the battery good call. Took the right ones out forget the numbers now think it was the one very top left cleaned I up and voila. Bit of a shock in the morning when 12 light bulbs are sending fault signals 🧐😁

Yea jjc, its funny after I removed and put them all back hadn't a clue what any of them did, the lights worked again so maybe I'll go back and look again as the lights won't turn off unless the ignition is off now,like it's only running lights dipped beams etc so it's not so bad I usually have them on In the day anyway, it's just a bit annoying I can't turn them off at the switch.

Cheers J.R hopefully that is it, I've never had or used a vcds scanner, would it be worth getting one, is it just softwear and a lead. How do the body control units start acting up. Sorry so many questions.

So I went to start my car today and had 12 light warnings on the dash computer. Front and back, licence plate reverse break, headlight, turn signal, my god I was confused. Had a look at the bulbs and they were fine, more confused. So started pulling all the fuses and they were fine. No joy, then pulled them all from the unit under the bonnet and voila all the lights came back on, no idea why, and now the lights will stay on when the ignition is on but the light switch is off, has this ever happened to anyone. It has been raining for ever it seems, maybe some water is getting in to something.

So changed the discs over and the wobble got lessened but didn't dissappear, a guy in a vw garage looked at the vid and said it maybe a cv joint, he's only an apprentice though, I'll see if it worsens before trying anything else, maybe a bad cv joint would warp a disc over time due to uneven or laboured turn, who knows.

Yea maybe it could be warped, I think I'll change the discs to opposite sides and see if the noise goes away before anything else. The disks and pads are only 4000 km old but maybe there is something else causing it to warp if it is indeed warped, and I'll check pad integrity when there off too, I'll keep yous posted probably the weekend before I get a chance to do it. Cheers everyone.

Yea 3 or 4 clicks per rotation it's very strange it's silent with the brakes off and happens when they are applied lightly and causes juddering too on the road. The disk looks un warped, im stumped anyway 🙄

Hi everyone, I have a braking wobble accompanied by a thudding noise that corresponds with speed, that is the faster the quicker the noise. It happens more so at light braking at high speeds. I have a video here when I jacked up the car and ran it and applied the brakes the noise is very obvious, I've had callipers and disc off and checked for stones and nothing, could it be cv joint that makes sound under braking or calliper piston or something, thanks. Oh video is too big 🤔https://photos.app.goo.gl/gyKwRBe6mVUBqR4u5

Wasn't sure had a quick look and it seemed it was a shadow or something, anyway problem solved car is gone only after two weeks full refund ,it's someone else's problem now , was looking at a 2011 1.6 octy now , at least I know how to spot a dodgy gearbox now. Are the dpf failings luck of the draw ?

Well it's been at the garage it's a gear box refurbished job dealer has offered my money back I'm going to take it and run !

Woah I didn't see that I'll have to have another look, well spotted t2000!

1st gear ,it's the high pitched grinding dry whirring noise . VID_20180319_130213093.mp4

122000km so about 90000 miles. I'd be a lot happier if it was a drive shaft and not a gearbox bearing alright , yea the shafts seemed tight enough no obvious movements.

I'm leaning towards output bearing now , I had the car up on Jack's and stands and it sound rough like very dry bearing or something when in any gear and all related to drive shaft speed ,quite when spinning by hand no rough spots or anything,anyone had this?

Yea brought it back he fixed a crank case valve issue ,just a broken little plastic bit , but surprise he said he couldn't hear the noise , I think I'd have to bring him out in the car to check it, the saw tooth issue would be constant wouldn't it and not depending on accelerating in gear.

But wouldn't this be a constant noise , this drone is only under load and disappears when coasting. I'm going to check drive shaft I think, hopefully it's a bolt on part like that and not something internal!

Would that only make a sound when under load, or would it be spinning in neutral too ?it's related to wheel speed alright as when driving in 1st up my drive it's a slow low pulse,and when at speed it's quite loud and fast. Transmission Input bearing would be down to engine speed wouldn't it?Thanks for your reply!